87 b2 4x4 2.9L HERE IS MY DILEMA NOW I HAVE REPLACED ALMOST EVERYTHING I CAN THINK OF SINCE I HAVE THE MONEY FOR IT NOW HERE GOES CAP,ROTOR,WIRES,PLUGS,IGNITION MODULE,IGNITION COIL,REMAN DISTRIBUTOR,HIGH OUTPUT ALT ,NEW BATTERY,STARTER AND RELAY ALL POWER CABLES 4GUAGE,NEW FUEL FILTER,IN TANK FUEL ASSEMBLY AND LOW PRESSURE PUMP EXTRA CAPACITY TANK 36GALLON NEW FUEL LINES,NEW FUEL REGULATOR,INJECTORS 19LBS, ONLY THING I HAVEN'T CHANGED YET ARE THE FOLLOWING HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP AND THE PICK-UP COIL WHICH I WILL PUT ON TOMORROW I GOT THE TIMING RIGHT IT'S SET IT RUNS FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES THEN WHEN IT GETS WARM IT TURNS OFF AND YOU TRY TO START IT NO GO WHAT COULD IT BE HAS TO BE FUEL RELATED OR IGNITION RIGHT

 

That's exactly the symptom I had when my ignition module (TFI) module failed. You have changed out a lot of parts on the car...when did the failure start to happen?

Was this problem the reason you replaced the TFI module?

Do you still have the old module?

 

my hold down bolt on the distributor got loose about 3weeks ago and that's where it all started to go bad so i found the timing position done i was going to take off the module to put fresh dielectric compound when i saw that the module was cracked so i took it off completely i had a spare one from my earlier b2 so i put that one on still wouldn't go felt like fuel to me and ignition so i decided to buy this stuff new and put it in myself i'm thinking it's my high pressure pump since that is the only thing i haven't bought yet or could be the pick-up coil which i forgot to replace when i installed the distributor i'm going today to buy the pick-up coil and install it today pump has to wait it's been shipped to me

 

You need to check for spark while someone cranks it after it dies...sounds like the TFI module to me.

 

It sounds like the TFI Module to me as well but also check your fuel pressure.

 

brand new tfi module i'm installing a new pick-up coil today and going to do timing again

 

You said the TFI module came out of your older BII.


Like you say, it is either spark or fuel that disappears when the car warms up. The TFI failure is the classic cause. It is easy to check for no spark although I would buy a cheap tester that goes between the plug and the boot to avoid holding that wire in my hand!

 

guess what my high pressure pump stopped working last night it stopped dead
so i'm going to replace that as well

 

Maybe that will solve your problem...maybe it's been qutting after a few minutes. Good luck!

 

yup. I had the same probs. Replaced everything too. Turned out that one of my fuel pumps was bad, I dont know which one: when the truck was warmed up, and on a hot'ish day, it would die. I could feel the low pressure pump going crazy, then the car would die. Dont know if it was the high pressure pump not working and causing the low pressure pump to dry out and heat up, or if it was the low pressure pump just going bad. I ended up replacing both at the same time, and it runs fine. I think your problems are over......after you replace the in-tank pump.



BUT PLEASE LET US KNOW THE OUTCOME AND CAUSE!! Not too many B2 owners are aware of the "bad fuel pump" syndrome....thanks

 

ok i changed all the following so far both pumps,fuel filter,FPR,DISTRIBUTORcap,rotor,pick-up coil,ignition coil,plugs,wires, all the sensors except my o2 sensor which i don't think would cause the problem since i don't have any cats but i could be wrong, power going good batt,alt,cables,starter and relay
all new fuses too,

i changed all that turned the key runs great for awhile even took it for a spin 40 minutes later the RPM needle starts to jump from like 3,000 or 4,000 RPM starts to go down until it stops cold . has fuel pressure good spark tomorrow i'm going to change the fuel injectors since i have spares and clean my tb and upper intake still not fixed help guys

 

I dont know if it would be the injectors. Why dont you check the resistance of them first before you replace them? You may end up swapping out a good one for a bad one. I forgot the value that these should be, its in the manuals. But it is still easier to remove the TB and upper manifold for that.

If your RPM is spiking like that, I wonder if it is your PCM (or computer brain) that is acting up. Sounds like some sort of electrical issue.

What state do you live in? And is your car made for that state? I dont know for sure, but I think that yours should have a cat, or two like my truck...I just think, dont know for sure. But if you do have an 02 sensor, remove it and inspect it. If it has a lot of carbon buildup, it could cause some bad effects. Clean it with a wire wheel brush and reinstall. If that doesnt fix the issue, it will certainly help fuel consumption.

Did you change the ECT sensor? Not the coolant sending unit that goes to the guage in the dash. This is the sensor thats mounted on the passenger side of the engine in the front top (am i making sense?), pretty much under the TB...

Did you remove the idle stabilizer and clean it out with berrymans chemtool or wd40? ps too.....

EGR valve....are all the vacuum lines intact and have suction? You can remove the EGR vacuum line and suck. It should move the diaphram. Then as you let go, the diaphram should go back easily. You can wash that with wd40.

Okay, last but should have been the first, you really should get one of those diagnostic testers. Mine was around $15. It comes with a booklet with around 120 pages. You really only need to read a few.....It will show you how to do the test, how to get rid of old useless codes, and tell you the intermittent troubles and the ones that are permanent. This should be able to tell you if your PCM is good, which is a really good thing to know, and the easiest way to find out (and probably the cheapest).

Keep us posted! good luck, and once the issue is fixed, your truck will ROCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I would spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid in the throttle body and see if it would fire before I assumed it was the injectors.

It could also be something in the injector wiring...they all share +12. Maybe the power lead is intermittent for some reason.

 

come to think of it, all the injectors wouldn't stop at the same time unless it was the power or the harness or computer or something in common. I don't think you should change the injectors. You know they all work when the car is cold, and they all quit when it is hot.

 

well the injectors are new the spare ones , i also have a computer from my old b2
i have no cats i took them off 5 months ago i just have pipe i live in miami,fl
no emissions here would the o2 sensor still work ? i'll check that out tomorrow
i might aswell do the injectors since i'm going to clean the tb and upper intake