truck died...help!!!
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: owensboro,KY
truck died...help!!!
hey guys I have a 1988 bronco with a fuel inj 302. I was driving it down the freeway yesterday at about 70mph when the truck completely died. It was running fine until it just felt like someone turned the key off. I figure it is fuel pump related, but I have never heard of one just going out after running fine. I replaced both the fuel pump relay and the eec relay. I can start the truck with ether, so I figure it isnt the ignition. Also when you turn the key on the fuel pump never primes. Anyone know of anything else to check before replacing the pumps themselves. thanks
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by mutang02
hey guys I have a 1988 bronco with a fuel inj 302. I was driving it down the freeway yesterday at about 70mph when the truck completely died. It was running fine until it just felt like someone turned the key off. I figure it is fuel pump related, but I have never heard of one just going out after running fine. I replaced both the fuel pump relay and the eec relay. I can start the truck with ether, so I figure it isnt the ignition. Also when you turn the key on the fuel pump never primes. Anyone know of anything else to check before replacing the pumps themselves. thanks
Where is the module, on the dizzy or on the left fender inner apron (prolly on the dizzy)? Ford used both types, depending on the engine size.
If on the dizzy, you'll need a thin shanked TORX driver to remove it.
Dizzy Module: E43Z-12A297-A (Motorcraft DY-425) Marked: E3EF-12A297-A1A or A2A.
E5PZ-12A112-A .. Stator (Motorcraft DU-30-A)
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: owensboro,KY
the ignition module would cause the fuel pump not to prime? is there a way to test the module before replacing it? I am trying to spend as little money as possible, I close on my first house friday, and will be eating nothing but ramen as it is. thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
If the ECM doesn't think the distributor is turning (the hall effect sensor inside the distributor tells it so) then it won't turn the fuel pump on.
So yes, it can cause this. Also if the ECM itself died it will cause this behavior. Can you pull codes from it? If so, the ECM is probably ok.
You could also have a wiring problem somewhere between the relay and the pump.
So yes, it can cause this. Also if the ECM itself died it will cause this behavior. Can you pull codes from it? If so, the ECM is probably ok.
You could also have a wiring problem somewhere between the relay and the pump.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
You know what... you're right. I must be asleep over here.
It's either a dead pump (a multimeter at the pump will tell that for sure), a wiring problem (open circuit, loose ground) or a dead ECM.
It's either a dead pump (a multimeter at the pump will tell that for sure), a wiring problem (open circuit, loose ground) or a dead ECM.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: owensboro,KY
thats cool I was just making sure I am not crazy. can i just unhook the wires from the pump, and see if they are getting juice with the key on? or does it only send juice for a second until you start to try to roll the engine over? also the truck also has what looks to be a second pump on the framerail....is that stock?
Trending Topics
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 1
From: sunny fla sometimes windy
I had a wire get worn through on mine, The wire bundle was touching the alt bracket
and it was a bear to find since I had to pull apart the loom and undo all the tape
and finally I found it. So bust out the multimeter and a safety pin and trace the wire
for the fuel pump start at the pump itself and stick the pin in every 12 inches until
you get voltage. You can also just inspect all the wiring where it comes into contact with any metal part. Don't just start throwing parts at it get a DVOMeter and test
test test tell us what you get and we can give you other stuff to test. Unless you
like wasting money.
and it was a bear to find since I had to pull apart the loom and undo all the tape
and finally I found it. So bust out the multimeter and a safety pin and trace the wire
for the fuel pump start at the pump itself and stick the pin in every 12 inches until
you get voltage. You can also just inspect all the wiring where it comes into contact with any metal part. Don't just start throwing parts at it get a DVOMeter and test
test test tell us what you get and we can give you other stuff to test. Unless you
like wasting money.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Yes that's how you can test to see if the pump is getting power.
That is a stock setup. For EFI trucks up until 1990, there was an external high pressure pump on the driver's side frame rail roughly under the front seat and a low pressure pump in each tank. In 1990 they went to a high pressure pump in the tank.
That is a stock setup. For EFI trucks up until 1990, there was an external high pressure pump on the driver's side frame rail roughly under the front seat and a low pressure pump in each tank. In 1990 they went to a high pressure pump in the tank.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 1
From: sunny fla sometimes windy
Don't waste your money on Ether(not really ether anymore!!) Just use a propane
torch (not lit) and run it off that. You can start it, diagnose vac leaks, loosen seized
hardware and burn the sucker to the ground if it makes you that mad!! All with propane
If the inertia switch is faulty please don't just wire around it!! At least put a toggle
and mark it FUEL PUMP in big letters so if you wreck out and a flame thrower is issuing
from your grill they will know to cut that switch!!
torch (not lit) and run it off that. You can start it, diagnose vac leaks, loosen seized
hardware and burn the sucker to the ground if it makes you that mad!! All with propane
If the inertia switch is faulty please don't just wire around it!! At least put a toggle
and mark it FUEL PUMP in big letters so if you wreck out and a flame thrower is issuing
from your grill they will know to cut that switch!!
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: owensboro,KY
alright guys, checked the wiring going into both pumps, and there is no juice at either one. however there is juice coming out of both the fuel pump relay and eec relay. There are four wires coming out of each relay and three of the four on both are hot. does that leave me with a possible bad wire somewhere? Could it still be the inertia switch? and if so where is it located?