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2001 f250 7.3 super cab one rear drive shaft no carrier bearing
I put an 8 inch kit on just finished today. Didn't touch any eclectical but while I was bleeding the brakes the door was open for about an hour half.. the light killed the battery so I jumped it and turned it over till it was totally dead and the starter was clicking so this thing was D.E.D ded.. I finally get it started and the radio display starts tweaking out the OD button was flashing and the six gun tuner sent an injection control pressure error.. I drove it to charge tha battery's and shut it off.. started it and drove it for a bit and all is normal now... are the blinking lights and codes from the dead battery?!
also with the 8 inch kit does the rear drive shaft need to be lengthened or spaced? I figured out the front does but what about the rear
You need to disconnect the batteries from the truck and charge them separately and you can either have them load tested which is what I would do or put them back in the the truck and see if things return to normal but they are likely on their way out. The overdrive light flashing means there is a transmission code stored its possible you knocked something loose when doing the lift low voltage will cause computer controlled vehicles to do weird stuff. On the driveshaft if it's a 2 piece driveshaft it needs to be shimmed down so it doesn't vibrate and it will also ruin your carrier bearing. I wouldn't drive it till you do that, with that much lift the bolts that come with the shim kit will not be long enough you will need 7/16-14 bolts that are 3 1/2" long should give you enough length I did one this week with a 6" lift and needed every single shim in the procomp shim kit and the I think it was an inch of shims that was already in it but it's good now you may as well get 2 shim kits and longer bolts from Home Depot or hardware store of your choice.
Thats weird the lights should auto turn off. They do on my 99. sounds like the batteries are junk. Interior lights on for 12 hours shouldn't hurt two batteries. Check your alternator for 14.4 volts.
The rear shaft has a slip joint.. You don't want to be to far out with it...My suggestion is call a lift shop.
Driving a truck to charge dead batteries is a very good way to damage the alternator, they are not designed for that. I would have the batteries and alternator tested and then keep a close eye on the alt. it may or may not last.
Thats weird the lights should auto turn off. They do on my 99. sounds like the batteries are junk. Interior lights on for 12 hours shouldn't hurt two batteries. Check your alternator for 14.4 volts.
The rear shaft has a slip joint.. You don't want to be to far out with it...My suggestion is call a lift shop.
ditto.
how old are the batteries?
my brother replaces his batteries only after the old batteries short out his computer regulator and alternator. He likes the extended battery usage plan like a lot of folks do with their oil services. batter cost 100. new alternator was 200 plus, new computer 800 plus.
I have no understanding why batteries are so often ignored - low voltage situations are brutally hard on electronics.
i went to ford ford and he said the alt is not putting out a good charge. It was at 12.34 or 13.78 or something. Could that half *** alternator mess with things like no chime 4x4 switch etc?
i went to ford ford and he said the alt is not putting out a good charge. It was at 12.34 or 13.78 or something. Could that half *** alternator mess with things like no chime 4x4 switch etc?
Low voltage situation could mess with all kinds of things, from a short term to long term damage.
Pull the batteries and the alt and have them bench tested at any Napa Autoparts, replace the alt and charge the batteries up. Most problems will go away by disconnecting the batteries and then connecting at proper charge, you need that complete disconnect for everything to reset on the truck.
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