2003 F350 XLT
Crew Cab/ short box
4X4- manual engaging
V10
Automatic trans
4" Superlift Superide
35/12.50 Pro Comp ATs

I recently had the 4" Superlift installed. I now have a loud driveline drone at 65-80 mph. It intensifies toward 75 and then tapers off. I also have take-off shudder. The installers tried sandwiching pieces of rubber turbo hose between the carrier bearing mount and the cross member. This took some of the drone out. They also tried a variety of different shim settings on the carrier bearing with no improvement. They even put the stock tires back on to make sure that it isn't tire noise. They say that they've never seen this before and that it must be caused by the V10 somehow. A few people have told me to get a new rear driveshaft with a CV joint in it. In all, it stinks to have a truck that looks great with a lift but streets horrible. I'm at my wits end and open to any suggestions. Thanks guys.

 

They were in the right area you need to shim the center carrier bearing down.


If they removed your drive shaft to do the lift I hope the marked it so it could be reassembled in the exact spot it came off.

The lift guys will be along to help further.

Rich

 

I guess there's 2 things you can do:

1) Buy a center carrier shim kit from SuperLift and see if it fixes it. (Cheap, $35)

2) Have a custom 1-piece driveshaft made. That will fix it. (About $150 on average.)

I installed the shim kit and used 1 3/4 inches of shims to get rid of all vibrations. The kit comes with 2" of shim plates of varying thickness. It also has washers and 2 longer grade 8 bolts to replace the factory ones. Get some LocTite too. You'll need a torque wrench to set the bolts at around 55 ft/lbs. Easy to do, just have your wife hold the driveshaft up while you put in the shims. (Fit punishment for not having done the dishes.)

 

"have your wife hold the driveshaft up "

Damn, I can't believe I wrote that!

 

A motorcycle tie-down works just as good as a wife, if not better. At least in this application.

 

I have a 2003 4x4 and I have the same shudder and vibration. I went with an 8" Superlift. The carrier bearing drop bracket helped a little on the startoff shudder but...I'm still lookin for answers.
I found this 35 page detailed discription that I have not had time to read yet....
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_...king%20angles:

 

Well, what's done is done, I'm afraid. We now know that you can't do a thing without your wife. How pathetic!!!

 

She has refused to help me since the manual transmission oil change incident. I took the drain plug out (it's under the transmission) to let the oil out and it was like a fire sprinkler. There was ATF all over us and all over the driveway. My wife was so pi$$ed. She was screaming at me: "Put your finger in there! Put your damned finger in there!" I only recovered 2 quarts in the drain pan. My wife's hair and clothes, the driveway and I recovered the other 4 quarts. those damned 6-speeds!

 

LOL You have a cool wife if she puts up with that!

 

take off shudder is caused from a two peice driveline.. the carrier bearing is a rubber donut and it is jumpin up and down under torque... get a one peice and it will go away.... GOOD one peice drivelins with CV up top are more in the $400-600 range

 

O.k. First. drive your truck away from that shop. Hose pieces under the bearing? Never seen shaft vibe before? A problem with the engine?Leave. Now. Second. You do not need a two piece shaft or a c/v shaft. Lots of money for a simple problem. Seriously. First shim the bearing. I would think no more than two shims. Second.Take your shaft off. Take it to a reputable shop who knows what the heck they're doing. Have the shaft professionally balanced. That should fix the last of the problem. The shudder on take off sounds like axle wrap but who knows. n578md, if you can get a one piece one ton shaft with 1410 u-joints, will you kindly have ten of them made for me and I will cheerfully throw in 100 bucks for your time? Around here that sort of stuff will run around 500 if you're lucky. But we're only talking a four inch lift. The balancing should get it. Look to spend around $80.Do the cheap stuff first and the new shafts as an absolute last resort. You would not believe how out of balance the shafts come from the factory.
On edit: I second the motorcycle strap, makes much less noise than the wife. JJ I have a LOT of torque to my rear end with my 10.5 and 40"s and no take-off shudder. I have not seen a carriar bearing jump around until they go bad but that is just my experience.

 

"n578md, if you can get a one piece one ton shaft with 1410 u-joints, will you kindly have ten of them made for me and I will cheerfully throw in 100 bucks for your time? Around here that sort of stuff will run around 500 if you're lucky."

You need to send me the old driveshafts. This shop here in Mesquite will cut the yokes off the old driveshafts, re-weld them on new tubing and balance the new driveshaft. $150 is all they charge. I'm not entirely sure I have 1410's anymore. That's what I was told but what is the difference between a 1350 and a 1410? (Don't tell me 60 either.) Is there an easy way of telling the two apart? I've tried talking to my 3 u-joints but all 3 are very tight lipped. (Tight sealed anyhow) even if I talk to them gently.

 

Well, that price sounds o.k. I guess then. 1410's are about 1/4 longer(as I recall) and quite a bigger(thicker).

 

Do you know if an '03 F250 might use a 1350 or a 1410 stock?

 

I had the same problem with my six inch lift. Had the drive shaft balanced that took care of it. Like CWB said you would not believe how out of balance they are from the factory.