O2-Sensor up-stream tips
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O2-Sensor up-stream tips
Changed back-stream and one up-stream sensor, not very difficult, getting ready to do the other up-stream by the dip stick. Any words of wisdom? I started last night before I took a break, realizing I had ordered 2 down-stream , so waiting on the correct one. I have the "tool" o2 sensor , but how to get a ratchet on it looks "fun" and also reaching the connector looks even more fun.
Any tips appreciated!
-Mark
Any tips appreciated!
-Mark
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,529
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From: Kansas
I've got a 2002 Escape with the 3.0 engine, but I've yet to replace an O2 sensor.....
I normally do not use an O2 socket when replacing an O2 sensor. I simply cut the wire off of the O2 sensor and I slip the closed-end of an open-ended wrench over the nut of the O2 sensor. I also like to have the O2 sensor very warm, which means I get it warm with an acetylene torch. The last one I did was on my '97 F250 and it fought me all the way, even with the acetylene heat. It wouldn't have come out with out the heat.
The installation is done with the open-end section of the wrench.
I normally do not use an O2 socket when replacing an O2 sensor. I simply cut the wire off of the O2 sensor and I slip the closed-end of an open-ended wrench over the nut of the O2 sensor. I also like to have the O2 sensor very warm, which means I get it warm with an acetylene torch. The last one I did was on my '97 F250 and it fought me all the way, even with the acetylene heat. It wouldn't have come out with out the heat.
The installation is done with the open-end section of the wrench.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
I made use of the no cost/refundable deposit, Advance Auto "Loan-A-Tool" program to use their O2 sensor removal kit. It was a nice piece of work, turned out I needed the low profile off set crow foot socket for access to the limited space bank 2 sensor on my 3.8L Taurus. I was lucky, both sensors came right out, no fuss, but I needed that off set crow foot socket for the limited access rear bank sensor.
If your sensors don't come with anti-seize already applied, or included in the packaging, use some Permatex/Loctite high temp nickel loaded anti-sieze in the threads. Don't need much & don't get any on the sensor end.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
If your sensors don't come with anti-seize already applied, or included in the packaging, use some Permatex/Loctite high temp nickel loaded anti-sieze in the threads. Don't need much & don't get any on the sensor end.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
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Finished! Not an easy job at all, i removed a bracket, which helped, but went to Northern tool and bought a long 7/8 wrench, used a heavy duty piece of PVC for a "breaker" bar. By the grace of GOD I got the sensor unplugged using a long pair of hose removal tool. Cut my hand all to pieces in the process, but when I finished I felt rather happy with myself. Not doing it wasn't an option I thought of. But, now all 3 sensors have been changed, we will see if any difference in gas mileage.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
Ok way to hang in there & get er done. Now consider taking the time to disconnect the battery B- cable to wipe the old corrupt KAM fuel trim tables, so the computer can begin building new tables using the new O2 sensors. Also to preclude possible idle, or performance problems, consider taking the time perform the cold & warn idle strategy (which also gets wiped with a battery disconnect) relearn routine here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...9&postcount=12 & let us know how it goes.
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