Need help with rear end
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Need help with rear end
97 f150xl 4.6 v8 4wd 217k miles
Last Wednesday on my way home my rear end gave out, truck wouldn't move all you could do is hear the gears hitting
After tearing down the truck the drive side bearings on the carrier assembly gave out, the differential was black
I installed a carrier assembly from a truck at the junkyard 3.55 8.8 rear end, same as mine but with 140k miles, i used the bearings & shims that came with the carrier assembly from the junk yard...
Installed new races for the pinion, new outter bearing, pinion seal, pinion nut, used master pro 75w140 full synthetic differential fluid
Truck was still making a humming/ whining noise in the rear, jacked it back up today, removed the tires & tried tightening the pinion gear more, i noticed it had horizontal movement & tightened it until the horizontal movement was gone, still hums/whines
I don't have the torque wrench to check turn resistance, any ideas?
Last Wednesday on my way home my rear end gave out, truck wouldn't move all you could do is hear the gears hitting
After tearing down the truck the drive side bearings on the carrier assembly gave out, the differential was black
I installed a carrier assembly from a truck at the junkyard 3.55 8.8 rear end, same as mine but with 140k miles, i used the bearings & shims that came with the carrier assembly from the junk yard...
Installed new races for the pinion, new outter bearing, pinion seal, pinion nut, used master pro 75w140 full synthetic differential fluid
Truck was still making a humming/ whining noise in the rear, jacked it back up today, removed the tires & tried tightening the pinion gear more, i noticed it had horizontal movement & tightened it until the horizontal movement was gone, still hums/whines
I don't have the torque wrench to check turn resistance, any ideas?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Raleigh USA
You prob cooked the pinion bearings. Whenever the pinion is removed you have to replace the crush sleeve and tighten the nut until you get the correct turning torque to set the preload on the bearings. You also have to install the correct carrier shims to get the right amount of backlash and bearing preload. Just because they were right in one housing doesn't mean they will be right in another due to manufacturing tolerances.
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Im going to tear it back apart this weekend to check the pinion gear, & preload, im deff going to install a new crush sleeve, get some red locktite. This time I'm going to check my preload with a technique i seen a guy use, using a needle type torque wrench with 2 1/2 - 5lb increments, going to double check shims & backlash the best i can too...
I didn't replace the entire rear diff bc of time & money restraints, considering I'd need to do the brake system & bleed everything too
The problem i had with my pinion was my dad in my ear "that looks fine, jus leave it alone" lol
Another question, does ford really have a unique differential fluid jus for their differentials?
I didn't replace the entire rear diff bc of time & money restraints, considering I'd need to do the brake system & bleed everything too
The problem i had with my pinion was my dad in my ear "that looks fine, jus leave it alone" lol
Another question, does ford really have a unique differential fluid jus for their differentials?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Fort Smith, Arkansas
Just for future reference, it still seems to me to be a whole lot easier and quicker to replace as a complete unit as it would avoid the adjustment issues you are now having. One thing I like about salvage yards and getting parts off a wreck, the engine and "go" parts are usually good considering it was able to drive all the way to the wreck.
The only "special" fluid for a Ford would be if it was limited slip it would need friction modifier.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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rear end is something you just cant throw together. You need to get the pinion depth right to start... using the new pinion and its shims should work... you need to crush the sleeve and get the torque on the nut right... then install the bevel gear and shaft. check backlash and move shims side to side to get backlash and endshake within spec. After that you should have very little "noise" ..........FORD has not unique gear lube. you can get generic 75 w 140 at any store.. If you have an LS rear end, then you need to add a bottle of friction modifier for the clutch.. nothing special.
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I understand that, i do have a limited slip diff, im going to get new fluid of course, im going to need a new crush bearing too bc im going to pull it back apart to check for damage, im going to try to get help with getting new bearings pressed on...
Everything I've learned about this rear differential is that you can reuse the original shims all 8.8 diffs are the same, only difference is the gear ratios....
For a friction modifier would it be possible to add some Lucas oil gear fluid to the new 75w140 synthetic gear oil?
Everything I've learned about this rear differential is that you can reuse the original shims all 8.8 diffs are the same, only difference is the gear ratios....
For a friction modifier would it be possible to add some Lucas oil gear fluid to the new 75w140 synthetic gear oil?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Raleigh USA
Not exactly. Because of machining tolerances the pinion shim for one housing may be a few thousandths too thick or thin in another housing. Same with the carrier shims. It has to be set up right if you want it to be quiet and last.
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I was thinking about going back to the junkyard to see if i could get that pinion for the carrier assembly i got, my cousin is going to see if he can get me the tools needed to measure what needs to be measured etc, imma see if he can just press my new bearings too, only new bearing i was able to use was the outter pinion & used both new pinion races out of a kit i bought, plus i need to check "freeplay(side to side movement) " to see if the differential casing was damaged any
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Central NYS
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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I agree with pdqford....... it sounds like you left the races in the bores and installed new bearing roller/ cage........ that will make them VERY NOISY.. New bearings require new outer races also .............. If you used the old pinion, you need the old shims.. if you use the new pinion you need the new shims.. After the gears run together for some time, if you put a different bull gear with the original pinion, you may end up with some noise. Probably not drastic, but noticeable.
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Im taking the differential apart tonight & going to try getting the old pinion bearing taken off & pressing a new 1 on, also going to jus replace the carrier assembly & races too & install all new shims, going to but a micrometer to check shim depth & a dial indicator to check for carrier assembly runout, if its greater than .003 then i need to replace the entire thing, the backlash should be better .008 & .012 too, gonna try to get it right this time
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Got the rear end apart no visible damages, got measuring tools to check everything out... using my beam type torque wrench there's no preload in the pinion bearing after i removed the carrier assembly etc
I'm curious to know if it'd be to much to set preload at 60in lbs considering the lowest measurement in my torque wrench is 5ft lbs?
I'm curious to know if it'd be to much to set preload at 60in lbs considering the lowest measurement in my torque wrench is 5ft lbs?