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The coolant to water percentage as well as how much air is in the degas bottle - both can impact the efficiency of the cooling system.
there is most likely a lot of air in the system. When the truck is running the level on the degas dropps 2 or more inches once she warms up. Any special way to purge it out?
Ok so cold soak numbers were dead nuts. On the way to work I saw 190 ect 217 eot highest spread. That was on the highway 65 for about 7 minutes. Good thing is I saw a small amount of recovery out of it once I got off the freeway so that's promising.
one more thing should I change caps? I know for a fact this cap will not purge under pressure. It used to hold 20psi at wot without puking.
You might try opening the flush port on the valve body, place a pipe cleaner down 4 inches into the Oil Cooler and twist it around - you are looking for an orange goo that is laying in the bottom of the oil cooler and is effectively reducing the surface area available to the exchange of heat. If it is there, you can use Restore Plus to dissolve the silicant and flush it out of the coolant system.
Restore plus is for iron scale, you want Restore for gel. And yes, you can gel it up mixing coolants without a chemical flush.
So just to kinda report back. My coolant definitely needs changed. It's nice and cloudy now from the oil contamination. I have a gallon of simple green and new elc coolant on the way. I'm going to do a simple green them distilled water flush friday. I also just got a new cap as my old one isn't allowing air out of the system, well I believe it's not as I just went out to check on things and my upper hose was collapsed. So I'm thinking/hoping getting the contaminated coolant out and the system cleaned up a bit with a fresh cap will bring deltas within specs.
The cap is not for releasing air. It is only a pressure relief valve to prevent damage from over pressure past 18 psig.
To get the air out you have to "burp" the system several times - for lack of better description. Let it pressure up and then carefully remove the cap - I wrap a thick towel around it and go slow.
The cap is not for releasing air. It is only a pressure relief valve to prevent damage from over pressure past 18 psig.
To get the air out you have to "burp" the system several times - for lack of better description. Let it pressure up and then carefully remove the cap - I wrap a thick towel around it and go slow.
I though the cap would also allow the system to equalize with atmospheric pressure? Like wouldn't allow my upper hose to collapse? Or is that due to the system needing "burped"?
Get it up to temp and slowly remove the cap releasing the pressure. Make sure the heater is on so it flows through the heater core, then let it run that way for a bit. I let mine run until I see flow in the tank and then shut down and leave the cap off. Once cool, I top off to the new mark and replace the cap and then... monitor the level as it does go up and down a little each day. One day it's slightly high, next a little low, no sweat.
Get it up to temp and slowly remove the cap releasing the pressure. Make sure the heater is on so it flows through the heater core, then let it run that way for a bit. I let mine run until I see flow in the tank and then shut down and leave the cap off. Once cool, I top off to the new mark and replace the cap and then... monitor the level as it does go up and down a little each day. One day it's slightly high, next a little low, no sweat.
ok cool deal thanks alot ill do that i noticed i had to add about a 1/4 gallon today to bring up the level. I'm hoping my delta issues aren't really clogging but a mixture of other things. Well find out thanks for the help.
So just to kinda report back. My coolant definitely needs changed. It's nice and cloudy now from the oil contamination. I have a gallon of simple green and new elc coolant on the way. I'm going to do a simple green them distilled water flush friday. I also just got a new cap as my old one isn't allowing air out of the system, well I believe it's not as I just went out to check on things and my upper hose was collapsed. So I'm thinking/hoping getting the contaminated coolant out and the system cleaned up a bit with a fresh cap will bring deltas within specs.
Simple green is not a cooling system flush chemical and it is corrosive to aluminum, but it's your truck. If you let the engine come up to temp with the cap off it will bleed the air out, that is the purpose of the 2 vent hoses in the degas. For $50-$70 for coolant I would do it once correctly.
Simple green is not a cooling system flush chemical and it is corrosive to aluminum, but it's your truck. If you let the engine come up to temp with the cap off it will bleed the air out, that is the purpose of the 2 vent hoses in the degas. For $50-$70 for coolant I would do it once correctly.
what would you use then to clean the system? I thought I had read simple green for oil contamination. I am gonna do a distilled water flush before new coolant but I wanted to make sure all the residual oil is put of my cooking system before the new coolant goes in.
just to elaborate I did a vc9 flush when I replaced the oil cooler last summer. I did not have high deltas until after my head gasket job. I believe it is a combination of a bit of oil contamination and air in my cooking system. I want to put fresh coolant in but want to ensure i get the oil out.
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