When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
As the tittle implies I know these cast Iron heads are hard to warp but is it necessary? Can I just follow the removal torque sequence and avoid resurfacing the heads that's if they pass the straight edge ruler? Why am I asking this? The Mules heads are coming of soon and if I like what I see I'll just do head gaskets worst case scenario I'm ripping the engine out if the cylinder walls are damage. I'm doing a really and I mean a really budget head gasket job. I'm in head gaskets and valve stem seals $50 THANK YOU commercial discount.
If you have a machinist straight edge and its within a couple thousandths it might be OK. I'd hate to do all that work and have that come back to bite me.considering your status tho. .... Maybe let it roll. When you have it apart you will know more. Get er dun!
ever use a mirror? I have done this in the past on suspect blocks
put non shiny side on the surface to test and press all four corners down but not enough to break the glass and press in other areas that are not recessed
look at graph paper in reflection and distorted areas show the warp
I know how to check for warpage, but most of my head job experience dealt with aluminum heads and or aluminum blocks, but not with cast Iron heads, according to my machinist cast iron heads are nearly impossible to warp the head gasket give ways first.
I know how to check for warpage, but most of my head job experience dealt with aluminum heads and or aluminum blocks, but not with cast Iron heads, according to my machinist cast iron heads are nearly impossible to warp the head gasket give ways first.
As far as warpage goes, they are much harder to warp than aluminum, but they can still warp a tiny bit just from taking them off. The torque sequence usually flattens them back out though. I would be checking them very closely with a straight edge and see how bad it is. Then figure out what a tolerable amount is.
When you clean the block and head surface, dont use a puck or anything on it. It's going to take forever, but use razor blades to clean it until you cant get anything else off of it. It usually takes me hours to get one side of the block 100% clean.
Not much, a quick glance showed me the idiot gauge was @3/4 steadily going to red and there was another light indicating "HOT" or something like that just cant remember.
Not much, a quick glance showed me the idiot gauge was @3/4 steadily going to red and there was another light indicating "HOT" or something like that just cant remember.
I would imagine that was the over temp lamp. I can't remember what temp it actuates but iirc its pretty darn hot. This all is just conjecture until its apart. I am with Travis I have gotten away from wizzer wheels to remove gasket material for the most part. Only nonprecise stuff gets that treatment. I feel like a nice razor blade does well and no chance of doing harm to the surface.
I had that 'hot' light come on and the gauge only showed a little to the right of center. I just ignored it, put in a terminator 180° and never saw the light again.
I got spares that are going to my other engine but stupid me forgot to bathe them in oil and on the finish resurfaced head rust appear and bad, it's going to need resurfacing again aghh.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.