Head Gasket Problems
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Peterborough, Ontario
Head Gasket Problems
I am looking for some advice with my head gaskets, I have a flathead 255 with a high lift cam and aluminum finned heads. The engine is a fresh rebuild and I have had it running a few times with open headers, I put mufflers on it today and I had alot of what sounds to me as lifter noise. I had some clearance issues with the valves and the heads earlier but opened the clearance and now with this noise I was worried I had problems. I took the heads off to check for interference but all looks good. One thing I did see is that the head is not seating against the steel compression ring of the head gasket, some are ok and others are not seating. I know there are large bore head gaskets avaialble, do they have larger valve area's as well that would seat with my heads. The noise I heard must be valve to lifter clearance issues and I will have to pull the center head to check this and adjust them accordingly. Any advice would be very helpfull.
Thanks
Thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
The big-bore gaskets are for really big bores; yours is just a stroker, right? (or Merc engine) Are the heads new or used? Are you using steel washers under the bolts or nuts? Studs or bolts? What torque on the bolts/nuts? In any event, it sounds like you aren't getting the force needed to sit the heads down tight. If the heads are still off, put a good steel straight-edge across them lengthwise, see if the heads are flat.
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From: Peterborough, Ontario
Thanks for the reply. The heads are used but I had them ground by a reputable machine shop. The problem I see is that the metal compression part of the gasket does not sit on the head properly, I have the heads off and when I lay the gasket on it the cutout for the valves in the head is bigger than than the gasket in some places. I have studs with the proper washers and the torque was good but when they were torqued the metal compression part does not get compressed between the head and the block. My block is bored .060 as well.
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From: Peterborough, Ontario
The heads could have been opened up previously, they are an original set of 1950 heads made by Schrager Automotive Engineering, no one has ever heard of them. I think some of the steel and copper gaskets do not have that compression ring around the cylinder and the valve pocket so that may work and it would seal better. I may be forced to buy new heads but they are not cheap and the ones I have look pretty good. I am still not sure if steel or copper is better with aluminum but copper seems to a recommendation from some manufacturers.
Appreciate your advice
Thanks
Appreciate your advice
Thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
I think the fire rings (steel edges) are pretty critical on a flathead. But if they are old heads, they may be made for use with solid copper gaskets, which could be trimmed to fit. Are the heads center outlet (59A) or front outlet (8BA)?
Post Fiend
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From: springfield il
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Senior User
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From: Peterborough, Ontario
They are 8BA heads, I have some pictures in my gallery. I think I will get a set of copper gaskets and fit them. One step forward and two back these days.
I also need to check the valve clearance, any tricks or good procedures that would help?
Thanks
I also need to check the valve clearance, any tricks or good procedures that would help?
Thanks
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Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: northwest MT
To check valve clearance....... roll up tinfoil into a ball about the size of a pea, stick them to the top edge of valves with a little superglue. Reassemble with old gasket and torque normally. Turn over by hand a couple times.......if the valves are close, the tinfoil will squish out and leave an impression. Remove heads and check thickness of foil. It worked for me. As for your gasket problem, you will probably have to use copper ones....T/M
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: springfield il
i was on flathead jack's site and perusing through some of his tech tips , and he had one that had me scratching my head . i have a problem with the oe heads on my 8ba not sealing in the dead center after they've been run . so we got some copper coat { didn't the first time as i listened to an " expert " on another site ! } to coat 'em real good , and he suggest's and i confirmed this with an ol' timer / racer here , to use aluminum based paint as a sealant for 'em ! not aluminum paint it has to be aluminum { metal } based paint in the colour of yer choice i geuss . he says coat the gaskets with a real heavy coat of it , let it tack up the slather another on , torque 'em down and wipe the excess off yer purty engine . and obviously retorque 'em after ya run 'em for a bit . he sold something like that there but can't remember what he called it and since she crashed the 'putor again i cant get it to open his site up so ...................
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Copper-Kote or similar aluminum stuff was real commonly used with copper gaskets, but shouldn't be used on composition gaskets.
WGC, I would be a little concerned what compression ratio you'll end up with with valve pockets that big. Check your PM's!
WGC, I would be a little concerned what compression ratio you'll end up with with valve pockets that big. Check your PM's!
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Senior User
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From: Peterborough, Ontario
Ross
I did a quick "cc" check on the heads before I put them in as I was concerned as well, worked out to almost 9:1. I have ordered some copper gaskets. I had read somewhere to coat the gasket with something that will let it slide as the aluminum head will move more than the block, maybe a coating of graphite spray.
Thanks
I did a quick "cc" check on the heads before I put them in as I was concerned as well, worked out to almost 9:1. I have ordered some copper gaskets. I had read somewhere to coat the gasket with something that will let it slide as the aluminum head will move more than the block, maybe a coating of graphite spray.
Thanks
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Peterborough, Ontario
I have the heads off and the intake removed, I have at least 3/8 " clearance on 2 lifters, they have backed off. Are there not suppose to be locking nuts on the adjustable lifter bolts?