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I have finally retired and plan to spend the summer pulling my fifth wheel around the country. In the past I have had problems with overheating in high temps (up to 117 degrees) and steep grades. Most seem happy with the BPD remote air cooled oil cooler. My question is does this also eliminate the oil bypass problem that some seem to have? Thanks for your help.
Last edited by Randy777; Mar 29, 2017 at 11:39 PM.
Reason: forgot question
I have finally retired and plan to spend the summer pulling my fifth wheel around the country. In the past I have had problems with overheating in high temps (up to 117 degrees) and steep grades. Most seem happy with the BPD remote air cooled oil cooler. My question is does this also eliminate the oil bypass problem that some seem to have? Thanks for your help.
Howdy,
Is that 117 Celcius on a steep grade? That's about 243 F
The "bypass" valve is eliminated when you get the remote filter. There is an option that retains the OEM filter (and presumably the bypass too)
You might give BPD a call, I'm sure they would be happy to tell you if that bypass is somehow still used with the optional filter
I am planning to do mine this Summer or Fall using the heavyduty cooler, Vernitherm and filter option.
On a "side" note, if you're overheating the engine you might get that radiator cleaned out or replaced and maybe replace your T-stat.
The BPD oil cooling system will not fix an overheat problem.
I plan to do the work myself. When I first looked at the instructions about 9 years ago they were very daunting. But with youtube all repairs are much easier. I have always had trouble with the truck oil overheating even after the dealer installed a new oil cooler. I have gauges for everything even a second oil temp probe in the oil pan (oil pan temps have exceeded 180 degrees on hard climbs). I do believe that the extreme temps, towing weight 17,800 combined, and steep grades where we tend to travel are just too much for the current system.
I plan to do the work myself. When I first looked at the instructions about 9 years ago they were very daunting. But with youtube all repairs are much easier. I have always had trouble with the truck oil overheating even after the dealer installed a new oil cooler. I have gauges for everything even a second oil temp probe in the oil pan (oil pan temps have exceeded 180 degrees on hard climbs). I do believe that the extreme temps, towing weight 17,800 combined, and steep grades where we tend to travel are just too much for the current system.
The stock cooling stack, fan and oil cooler, if functioning properly and you don't have another issue, can Easily handle that load, in all temps, in all speeds and all grades.
That is less than us when we're loaded up for a trip and we're also pushing a brick (truck camper) through the wind. Have done so on over hundred degree days climbing the sierras and lots of other driving (slow 4x4, etc.) too...
If you are set on a BPD, go for it, but the stock system will do what you need as well...
The stock cooling stack, fan and oil cooler, if functioning properly and you don't have another issue, can Easily handle that load, in all temps, in all speeds and all grades.
Some might disagree............. especially those who have had to pay someone to replace the OEM cooler more than once.
Originally Posted by OUTLAWSSAA
Ordered this truck(F-350) new in 2005. It has 125,000 mi on it. I have replaced the oil cooler 3 times. After the first one,I flushed the system, put ELC coolant in it,and installed a coolant filter on it. I change the coolant filter every time I change the oil & filter (4000mi).
It's possible he could have been doing something wrong, using the wrong coolant, saying the wrong incantation etc.....
One shouldn't have to constantly monitor the EOT/ECT and worry about blowing the EGR cooler.
I am also considering the heavyduty BPD cooler + filter.
It might be somewhat expensive but it's probably cheaper than doing extraordinary flushes and paying someone to do the OEM cooler over and over.
If you are doing the work yourself, a diy air oil cooler is the way to go imo. It'll cost ya about 1k vs 2.5k going with bpd setup. I'm going this route myself when I do hgs. The dual oil filters are pretty nice as well. An Amsoil 20 micron filter(same as stock)and a 2 micron bypass. What is nice about it is you choose every component to fit your needs. Going with a bpd setup isn't bad, but I just can't stomach their prices when I can use better parts much cheaper.
I'll be using the same setup as fully lit has on his truck as it makes the most sense to me & is the cleanest diy setup I've seen. With a fan on the oil cooler you'll never need to worry about oil temp. In fact, it being too cool is my worry but will be using a pan heater to help out.
Some might disagree............. especially those who have had to pay someone to replace the OEM cooler more than once.
It's possible he could have been doing something wrong, using the wrong coolant, saying the wrong incantation etc.....
One shouldn't have to constantly monitor the EOT/ECT and worry about blowing the EGR cooler.
I am also considering the heavyduty BPD cooler + filter.
It might be somewhat expensive but it's probably cheaper than doing extraordinary flushes and paying someone to do the OEM cooler over and over.
The OP doesn't have to worry about blowing an EGR cooler ....... , probably hasn't for quite a while.
Randy777 -
The interesting thing is that the 15 degree differential isn't as important when you have an EGR delete. It can still indicate a clogging oil cooler, and you don't want to ignore it, but you can go higher than 15 degrees. Just make sure it isn't constantly getting worse and watch the oil temp (EOT).
Also, just be aware that the air cooled option can be louder than the stock option.
The stock cooling stack, fan and oil cooler, if functioning properly and you don't have another issue, can Easily handle that load, in all temps, in all speeds and all grades.
Scott
My cooling system is recently rebuilt all OEM. We fulltime RV with a ~15-16k Fifth. I do this for a living. I've overheated/had throttle back both times I've climbed out of Vegas on I15 at max GCVW during the summer. 110F Ambient temps, no, the stock cooling system can't handle it. You have to drive the ECT and try and keep EOT under 245F-250F....and that means letting significantly off the throttle on those loooooong hot climbs.
I was very disappointed with Ford both times. I would expect the 2005 6.0 would not pass the new J2807 spec at its GCWR...
That said, I'm now on the other side of the country, and haven't worried about ECT/EOT since. Its a stout cooling system no doubt, but it is not sized quite as large as I would like. I'm sure there is a cost/benefit ratio that was calculated there by Ford, and it was decided to satisfy 98% of the needs at 75% of the cost or what have you.
Anyway, back to the regularily scheduled programming of External Oil coolers
My cooling system is recently rebuilt all OEM. We fulltime RV with a ~15-16k Fifth. I do this for a living. I've overheated/had throttle back both times I've climbed out of Vegas on I15 at max GCVW during the summer. 110F Ambient temps, no, the stock cooling system can't handle it. You have to drive the ECT and try and keep EOT under 245F-250F....and that means letting significantly off the throttle on those loooooong hot climbs.
I was very disappointed with Ford both times. I would expect the 2005 6.0 would not pass the new J2807 spec at its GCWR...
That said, I'm now on the other side of the country, and haven't worried about ECT/EOT since. Its a stout cooling system no doubt, but it is not sized quite as large as I would like. I'm sure there is a cost/benefit ratio that was calculated there by Ford, and it was decided to satisfy 98% of the needs at 75% of the cost or what have you.
Anyway, back to the regularily scheduled programming of External Oil coolers
Sorry, but your situation doesn't equate to either mine or the OP's - if you are towing a 15 to 16K trailer + your 8K truck = 23 to 24K. We are running (weighed on a commercial scale) around 18K, just a tad more than the OP. I have a friend that pulls his 5'er all over the country too, with his Stock '04. He is running in your weight range and has also occasionally had to back out of it, mostly due to what he deems uncomfortable EGTs.
I stand by my statement with regards to the OP's stated weight, as that is something I am familiar with. He may have his heart set on an external cooler, and should fully research that, because not everybody "loves" them: there are two sides to that story as well.
All the best and back to the OP's Q (sorry if I brought up something you aren't interested in, OP)...
The interesting thing is that the 15 degree differential isn't as important when you have an EGR delete.
Mark, I of course totally agree with that.
Not having an EGR simply raises the point where one must "worry" about oil temp. (presumably up to where the ECM starts "throwing wrenches at you" or you melt the plastic in the filter housing!!.....yeah I know......you REALLY have bigger problems when you get there!!!)
Not everybody can get away with a delete though and if you do, it might be a little harder to sell the truck to someone that will be living or moving to a state where it is required. I'll probably also install the BPD EGR cooler too......
Thanks for all your input guys. The $2000.00 is a lot of money to spend plus for me probably 25 hours of labor or more. My delete is only a freeze plug blocking the exhaust from the egr cooler. Would removing the egr cooler for a full delete help any? I am still on the fence. Last year was a tuff trip. Very high temps and in the climb up to Sequoia National Park (sea level to over 8000 ft in about 20 miles was tuff as we had to stop about 6 times. The oil temps do drop very fast when we stop (30 degrees in 5 minutes). I did a 5 hour flush last year and put in Zerex Extended life HD anti freeze. Any other suggestions would help. So is 260 degrees in oil temp ok for 10 to 20 minutes?
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