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Ordered this truck(F-350) new in 2005. It has 125,000 mi on it. I have replaced the oil cooler 3 times. After the first one,I flushed the system, put ELC coolant in it,and installed a coolant filter on it. I change the coolant filter every time I change the oil & filter (4000mi). Yesterday I had to take a trip to Windsor, about 5hrs each way. I started noticing after the motor was heat soaked the ECT and the EOT spread was starting to creep into unwanted territory. The worst I saw was 190-215. EOT hit 218 once. This was not hauling or pulling anything. I'm on the ledge now,before I jump, I might try a backflush. On a side note a buddy of mine that works at Navistar called me when I was 3hrs from home and asked me how its going. I asked him to find out if the guy who designed this oil cooler still works there, because I want to come over there and choke him, if somebody hasn't got to him already.
If you are a manual transmission then there is a good chance that your oil cooler bypass valve is not sealing, thereby allowing oil to bypass the oil cooler. BulletProofDiesel sells one for about $20 delivered last time I looked. As a simpler option Ford would be replacing the entire valve body at about $300
My 6.0L has a new cooler, distilled flush, elc and radiator, my eot delta unloaded has been 9-14 BUT I just towed my camper 300 miles today and my delta was 14-17. Whwn then ecct went up, the eot dropped quixkly when thw fan came on.This does not make any sense. I had an ipr remote cooler and was seeing 10-12 unloaded and 16-20+ when towing.
It actually does make sense, the Oil Cooler valve body and the Oil filter housing have significant surface area to help drop oil temps once Air is flowing across, such as when the fan kicks on.
Careful, it is still there with the BPD solution, they have their own spring.
Though I think you are on an excellent path.
No way I'd ever spend that kinda dough on a bpd air cooler. I'm not paying for thier R&D LoL
Diy setup using E350 oil cooler housing and welded closed ports. It's a no brainer imo. I have access to the welding equipment. Most don't and the cost of purchasing the equipment or taking it to a weld shop is probably why most just go with the bpd kit because it's ready to bolt on out of the box. My diy air oil cooler will cost about 1k, but also includes dual oil filters(one being a bypass). Bpd would cost 2.5k+ for what I'm going to have.
Has anyone installed a new bypass valve and seen a significant decrease in oil temps?
Not in any of the posts I've seen them speaking of this. If you drop anything down the hole, like the screws, your going fishing in the oil pan ... not worth the risk in my opinion.
Not sure Mike...
I run a OEM cooler and see good numbers, have for 50k, it's still under 5° spread and thats running at 75mph, no load. I also flush at 30k on coolant, run ELC and no filter with the original bypass valve installed.
Three of the hardest things to convince 6.0L owners (at least the numerous 6.0L owners I know and help locally) of is the importance of:
1. OEM filters
2. The importance of battery and alternator health
3. The importance of coolant maintenance (proper fluid to begin with and the flush interval if they run gold ..... and the testing if they run gold or green, which I do not think you should be using btw).
They believe that it is an exaggeration when given this advice. Then, when they have problems, they blame it on the design (ie - "it shouldn't have to be that important").
In a way I can see their point, folks don't want to be accountable, and it is a little bit of work and cost to be conservative.
I too wish these vehicles were as simple as they were 50 years ago, but they aren't.
The oil coolers are just fine if proper maintenance is done. Even a tuned 6.0L isn't a problem for the OEM oil cooler. However, if you bought a used vehicle, you may not have any idea if the coolant was properly maintained. That could easily bite a new owner of a used 6.0L and leave a sour taste.
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