Hey Folks -

I've read numerous posts regarding power windows, but nothing about this:

Tackled the change out on both doors' rubber/felt window channel / inside & outside window wipers / pass. side pwr. window motor this weekend, which went swimmingly, thanks to some good info found here from spdjunke and others. (thanks)

I was so proud of my work, I decided to screw it up really good - my pass. side window switch hasn't worked in a while, and as I was buttoning up that side, I decided to take apart the switch and bend around on the springs to see if that would make it work. Once inside the switch, I couldn't see the contacts very well, and by the time I got some magnification, I'd bent them until I couldn't figure out how they were supposed to be, sooo,.....well, I decided the contacts needed to be closed, (in constant contact) the switch being the thing that interupted the juice, causing the elec. to power either up or down. I was wrong, as when I connected the battery and turned on ignition, motor drove window to the top, then stayed on, without touching the switch. I quickly turned off ign., then turned it on again, to see if switch would cycle window down. No, it wouldn't. I only left switch on the second time maybe three seconds. (maybe five seconds the first time) Decided I'd screwed up the pass. side switch by bending springs, so I pulled the working driver's side pass. window switch, and installed it on the pass.side spot. Nothing. Took that switch out and put back in driver's side clip, didn't do anything to pass. window. (pass. side clip was open - no switch installed while I was doing this) Took that switch and changed out to driver's side window control, worked fine. Put back in pass. window slot, nothing. Unplugged pass. window motor, jumpered 12v to the input, window went up and down fine. Tried good switch on pass. side again, no go. There appears to be no power going to the motor plug, even when I use working driver's side switch. Other functions on the same fuse work fine, so wouldn't be that. No smoking wires or typical smell while I am doing any of this. Obviously, something happened, I just can't figure out what, and am out of things to check.

Ya'll have any ideas?

I intend to pick up new switch from Ford, but don't really expect it to solve problem, as no power is going to motor through driver's side (working) switch.

Thanks in advance, if you have any suggestions -


Best -


Joe Horn '93 EB 302

 

There is a chance of a mis-wired passenger side. I had a somewhat same issue with my door locks and took me a day of tracing wires with a diagram to find the prob. Just had to do a little re-wire and all is working again. It seems that the window and locks are wired so that one side is the "master" circuit so the wiring can seem a little wierd. I dont know if you have a wiring diagram for your truck but if you dont, reply back and I will send it to you. I have scanned a few years of wiring diagrams to my system just for this. if you post your email on here it will be removed by forum poilcies...but just replace the @ symbol with something else and I will figure it out.

 

Thanks for the offer BillyBob, but I can't imagine how it could become "mis-wired." It worked fine for probably six years or so, and I've just lived w/it sine then, as driver's side switch has always worked fine. I didn't mess w/any wiring at all, (other than the jumper wires) just the switches.

Hmmmmm.


Thanks again though BB-


Joe

 

Ahhh my bad.....I took it fro myour post that you changed some things around.
Good luck and hope you get it fixed.

 

Have you checked to see if you have power at all? Probably need to look for the elusive broken wire. Take a multimeter and shoot from the switch to the other end (probably under the dash). See if there's continuity, if there isn't you know where the problem is. If you are getting power on the hot side, you need to check the ground. See if you have continuity between the ground contact of the switch and any ground on the truck.

 

all switchs have to be for it to work the passenger side.

 

A buddy of mine had a car that had a similar problem found broken wire in the rubber boot that goes from the door to the kick panel

 

If I'm understanding you correctly, I may have your answer. I believe that in order to contol the passenger window, you must have (good) switches hooked up to that circuit on both the driver and passenger doors.

While you're in there playing with all of that wiring, you might consider this little mod that I did to all three of my windows and don't know how I lived without (you'll have to scroll down a bit):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=116804

 

YESSS! I went by parts store on the way home and picked up a new pass. side pwr. window switch, ($13. @ Full Service, San Antonio) plugged it in, everything works perfectly. Made my day, that's for sure. Yes, you guys were right as rain - working switches have to be in place before the windows will work. That was a possibility in my mind, but guessed the real problem was gonna turn out to be something fried between dr. side and pass. side switch panel. Something along the line of "pull the dash, heater core, steering column to get to a little wire that burned when the switch shorted out." Thought that because the driver's side window worked, even w/pass. side switch removed. Shouldn't have been so negative, I guess.

Now that I have both panels off again, I'm gonna try to whip that rattle problem inside the door that I have long thought was the panels. Couldn't be, as I've been driving w/o panles on, and am hearing a big, hollow, constant rattle from both doors. Somewhere about the center of the door, sounds like, but sounds are klinda slippery to find, 'cause, you know, you gotta still drive, while you have your head stuck over on the other side of the truck trying to find a rattle. <g>

Then,....on to the FWD module problem........

Thanks for all your responses. This place's great. Honestly, I think I would have already traded my Bronco for something newer, if it weren't for this site -


Best - -


Joe Horn '93 EB 302

 

What's your module problem?

 

Hey BigRic -

I think I said that wrong. (the *module* is actually inside dr's. side kick panel, right? Naw, that's not what I meant to say) Based on what I've read here, I need to R&R my 4wd actuator motor on the back of the transfer case. Looks pretty straightforward, 'cept the anti-tamper bolts, and removing the connecting wire from it's harness. Overcoming those problems are described and doable though, looks like to me. Problem seems to be like pwr. window motors, degradation of plastic parts. Remove, clean brushes, replace rubber/plastic bumper, reassemble, remount. Badabingbadaboom. If it's like restoration of my doors, I figure it'll only take me, uhh,....sixty hours. I insist upon redoing every project multiple times. It's my role of Idiot Perfectionist at work. (big grin)

Thanks again for the suggestions and answers to this thread. I'm gonna put a complete description of the process of restoring my '93 doors in my gallery here, (when I can) if anyone's interested. I actually came up w/several ways to fix *and* quiet those pesky rattling door panels on our late model Broncos.

Best -


Joe Horn

 

Don't bother removing the wires--just hang the thing down and take it apart. There are only about five pieces; the instructions look a lot more complicated than things really are. All I had to do was replace the travel stop with fuel line and adjust to the correct position before I bolted it up.