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My Dizzy is looking pretty ugly. I have disassembled it down to the weights and springs. Is this rights? Two different type of springs?
Do the cam gear and the piece above it need to be pressed off? <br/><br/>There's no play in the shaft but I would like to take it all apart if I can do it.
That is correct. Two different springs. the light spring allows the the first phase of mechanical advance to come in as the RPM increases. The second heavier spring allows it to continue to advance, but slows the rate down. The worst looking part of your dizzy IMHO in the cam lobes for the points set. Make sure that is clean, smooth and lubed with the proper points cam lube. If you have no play in the gear or shaft, you are good. The gear and the shaft retainer both have spring pins holding them to the shaft that you can gently tap out with a punch as you have. Maybe try to locate new spring pins for reassemble if you can just to make sure it doesn't fly apart when you are done! Good luck!
Yep, a rough or pitted cam can cause problems with the point rubbing block. Smoother the better.
For further disassembly, have to remove the clip that retains the reluctor and weights/springs. It's covered in grease right now. Be careful, don't lose it.
The light spring comes in first, the heavy spring has a little play or clearance in it. When you watch the revs come up using a timing light you'll kind of be able to tell when the heavy spring takes over, looking at the damper. The first part of the advance comes in quicker.
That distributor is using the 10L advance slot, for a total of (twice) 20° advance at the crankshaft. That's probably what you want, gives lots of room to play with in terms of initial timing. 14° or thereabouts with pump gas.
If you're going to run points, almost no side play whatsoever is allowed on the distributor shaft. Maybe .005". New bushings would be the way to go or a remanufactured or rebuilt distributor. This is why everybody hates points today, they are trying to run them in clapped out distributors. That won't work.
3X.
The (spring) roll pin is Ford part number 67555-S. Still replaced by Ford.
It is 1/8" diameter by 13/16" long. If you get an other than Ford one get a H.D one. Remember, the cam drives that Dizzy gear. Then through this pin the gear drives both the Dizzy AND the oil pump. At higher RPMs or when the oil is cold and thick, a cheaper and thinner roll pin will schear.
Yep, a rough or pitted cam can cause problems with the point rubbing block. Smoother the better.
For further disassembly, have to remove the clip that retains the reluctor and weights/springs. It's covered in grease right now. Be careful, don't lose it.
The light spring comes in first, the heavy spring has a little play or clearance in it. When you watch the revs come up using a timing light you'll kind of be able to tell when the heavy spring takes over, looking at the damper. The first part of the advance comes in quicker.
That distributor is using the 10L advance slot, for a total of (twice) 20° advance at the crankshaft. That's probably what you want, gives lots of room to play with in terms of initial timing. 14° or thereabouts with pump gas.
If you're going to run points, almost no side play whatsoever is allowed on the distributor shaft. Maybe .005". New bushings would be the way to go or a remanufactured or rebuilt distributor. This is why everybody hates points today, they are trying to run them in clapped out distributors. That won't work.
I have a Mallory system so no points.
You said To remove the spring for the reluctor. Is that inside the top of the shaft? Where the grease is?
Also, does the cam gear need to be pressed off? I have the pin out but I can't budge the gear. I don't want to force anything.
No it shouldn't need pressed off. I have mine apart and I used a plastic hammer and tapped the shaft out of the housing from the gear end, thus allowing the lower retainer to slide off.
Dan
PS the reluctor spring is under the grease, and it is a bit tricky to remove
Advice about being careful with that retainer circlip is wise. This is under the rotor, (under the fiber lube-wick sometimes), and down in the center of the shaft,
It is small, a bit of trouble to find or replace, and is springy enough to fly across a room. (Don't ask... )
You might want to leave some grease down in there, to keep it in place until you have a firm grip on it. Also covering with a shop towel when you pull it up might be smart, too.
Trying to get things done, results in mistakes. Fixing mistakes and learning how to do it right, results in experience. Experience accumulated, creates Wisdom.
Personally, I'm still working on the middle part.
If you want wisdom, ask Orich.
Advice about being careful with that retainer circlip is wise. This is under the rotor, (under the fiber lube-wick sometimes), and down in the center of the shaft,
It is small, a bit of trouble to find or replace, and is springy enough to fly across a room. (Don't ask... )
You might want to leave some grease down in there to keep it in place until you have a firm grip on it. Also covering with a shop towel when you pull it up might be smart, too.
Trying to get things done results in mistakes. Fixing mistakes and learning how to do it right results in experience. Experience accumulated, creates Wisdom.
Personally, I'm still working on the middle part.
If you want wisdom, ask Orich.
Okay so I take it the spring is those two little ends. How does it come off? Squeeze them, or pry them apart?
There is a tool for those, but I always forget to buy one. I use a pair of needle nose pliers. It isn't optimal but it gets the job done. Squeeze the two ends together and it will come out.
Did you remove the springs and weights? When these parts are in the condition that yours are in they do not just slide apart? They are stuck together with years off dirt and crud and moisture that has heated up and cooled down a billion times and they just take some finessing to get apart. If you have the two small advance springs and weights off, then the reluctor should come off the top of the shaft, leaving just the shaft and limiter base. Maybe spray some WD40 or PB Blaster down in there to soak a bit and loosen it up will help.
Here's a couple pics of the one I am currently working on. In fact I have a thread started on it but have not gotten the shaft bushings and all the parts yet so it hasn't gotten very far Hope this helps
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Distributor retainer clip caution
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Hope this helps