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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Buying a 6.0

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Old Mar 28, 2017 | 10:52 AM
  #16  
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Hlb7194
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Ive read some already and have been starting to set up gauges on torque. So far ive got EOT, ECT, fuel pressure and fuel rail pressure. Is there anymore i need? And what are some number i can have written down to refrence to for each one? Like i know the ECT and EOT shouldnt be more then 15 apart. Ive heard a bunch of horror stories with a 6.0 but i think all that mainly came from how they wete used and maintained. I wanna get a good 6.0 thats gonna last with the proper maintenance. I do all my own mechanic work and have changed engines and rebuilt them before so im not worried about putting studs in just dont wanna have to do it a week after buying the truck.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2017 | 11:11 AM
  #17  
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Bumblebee04
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Bismic put this together, he may have added more. Hopefully he'll chime in if he did.


Also have this "normal readings" saved.

 
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Old Mar 28, 2017 | 04:50 PM
  #18  
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Well, I have been really busy at work, or I would have chimed in earlier. But knowing this awesome group, they have steered you in the right direction.


Originally Posted by Hlb7194
The link is the truck im looking at. Its a 2007 f250 kingranch 4x4. 150 miles. Been told the EGR has been deleter. Their asking 20k. Ive torque pro with a bluetooth dongle im going to take when i go look at it. What do i need to look for? Is it worth buying?
The highlighted is awesome that you already have a live data scanner. You are so much further ahead than other 6oh potential purchasers on this site.

It has gotten to the point that until someone gets a live data scanner, like you have, I won't even comment on a thread.

Good for you!

Originally Posted by Bumblebee04
I'd bring a pressure gauge and T adapter as well to test the HG. Would never buy a 6.0 again without checking it. Otherwise you can get dupped like i did thinking that miles are low so they should be good. If I only knew then what I know now!
This is something that should be done, and the total setup may set you back $20. Be sure to get a simple gauge that will read 0-30psi. This way you get a very accurate number when the needle moves.

I sell these for gas and water. They work great for checking HG's too.

Jones Stephens | G60030



Originally Posted by bismic

Be sure to get it cold when you first start it up for a test drive. I would watch the battery voltage when cranking.

After driving (get it fully up to temp) for 15-20 minutes minimum, shut it down and try re-starting. It should start easily both cold and hot.
This is soooo important to get cold starting numbers. FICM health can be inaccurate if this truck is not cold when trying to start.


Originally Posted by 69cj
Might also crawl under it and look for oil leaks. Bed plate leaks are not easy or cheap to fix.
Look at the pinion seals and diff seals to see if you are losing oil there too.

Originally Posted by 69cj
Don't know about N.C. but factory dealers out here won't touch an emissions deleted truck. I personally won't touch a deleted or tuned truck. Quite often the sign of a driven hard put away wet truck.

I don't like getting other people's modded trucks either. I just don't trust other people's work that i don't know how they did the work.

Another reason I don't like pre-"bulletproofed" trucks, when I found mine i wanted it to be stock.


Originally Posted by Hlb7194
Ive read some already and have been starting to set up gauges on torque. So far ive got EOT, ECT, fuel pressure and fuel rail pressure. Is there anymore i need? And what are some number i can have written down to refrence to for each one? Like i know the ECT and EOT shouldnt be more then 15 apart. Ive heard a bunch of horror stories with a 6.0 but i think all that mainly came from how they wete used and maintained. I wanna get a good 6.0 thats gonna last with the proper maintenance. I do all my own mechanic work and have changed engines and rebuilt them before so im not worried about putting studs in just dont wanna have to do it a week after buying the truck.
Even if there are some minor things to be done, seems like you will be able to do the fixes yourself. That's good. You will end up being one happy 6oh owner, if you get a decent one, and since you can do your own work.

Thanks - Preston
 
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Old Mar 28, 2017 | 05:17 PM
  #19  
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WatsonR
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Joined: May 2014
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Torque has a pre-defined set for the 6.0, you just need to load them and then pick the gauges you want to see.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2017 | 06:50 PM
  #20  
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Where do you find the set for the 6.0 ij torque? Ive used it for gauges but always set up my own.

Is there a write up on the pressure gauge setup? Like where to hook it in to? Just wanna make sure i get it right.

Probably gonna try to look it at first of next week. Ive got the contact of the shop who has done all the work to it and hes a well known powestroke guy so im going to chat with him about the truck
 
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Old Mar 28, 2017 | 08:33 PM
  #21  
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bumping this because the thread shows that the OP posted something, but it won't show up until someone posts something after him ??? wish they would figure out this glitch!
 
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