Buying a 6.0
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New User
Joined: Mar 2017
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Buying a 6.0
Hey Im looking at purchasing a 6.0 PSD. Have owned duramaxs so not new to diesels just to PSDs.
https://www.feyerford.com/vehicles/2007-ford-f-250-super-duty-p2363-1ftsw21p67ea90945
The link is the truck im looking at. Its a 2007 f250 kingranch 4x4. 150 miles. Been told the EGR has been deleter. Their asking 20k. Ive torque pro with a bluetooth dongle im going to take when i go look at it. What do i need to look for? Is it worth buying?
https://www.feyerford.com/vehicles/2007-ford-f-250-super-duty-p2363-1ftsw21p67ea90945
The link is the truck im looking at. Its a 2007 f250 kingranch 4x4. 150 miles. Been told the EGR has been deleter. Their asking 20k. Ive torque pro with a bluetooth dongle im going to take when i go look at it. What do i need to look for? Is it worth buying?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 428
Likes: 2
From: Central Illinois
I'd bring a pressure gauge and T adapter as well to test the HG. Would never buy a 6.0 again without checking it. Otherwise you can get dupped like i did thinking that miles are low so they should be good. If I only knew then what I know now!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 922
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Like Greg is saying, if you have a gauge you can hook up to the coolant pressure that would be great to look for pressure issues showing bad head gaskets. Also, take that pig on the highway at 65 mph for about 15-20 mins on flat ground and look at the temp difference between Engine Oil Temp (EOT) and Engine Coolant Temp (ECT). You want to see no more than 15 degree difference. The lower or more equal the temp the better otherwise toward 15 degrees or more you are looking at a plugged oil cooler. That could be a $400-$1000+ job depending if you do it yourself or not.
Anything else other than mentioned, or bad tranny, would be less an issue and worth repairing for a really nice rig for the price versus $65-70k for a brand new one.
Anything else other than mentioned, or bad tranny, would be less an issue and worth repairing for a really nice rig for the price versus $65-70k for a brand new one.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,931
Likes: 3,653
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...used-6-0l.html
As folks posted above, the common "big ticket" risks are:
leaking head gaskets
plugged oil cooler
and I would add bad injectors to the list as well (frequently from low fuel pressure)
There are other risks on other model years.
One other issue is the weak STC fitting on the discharge of the HPOP, but apparently SOME of the 07's might have had the bracket which helped stabilize the fitting. I believed this helped it last longer. The dummy plugs in the oil rail are another weak spot, but installing the upgraded dummy plugs isn't too bad of a job.
Be sure to get it cold when you first start it up for a test drive. I would watch the battery voltage when cranking.
After driving (get it fully up to temp) for 15-20 minutes minimum, shut it down and try re-starting. It should start easily both cold and hot.
As folks posted above, the common "big ticket" risks are:
leaking head gaskets
plugged oil cooler
and I would add bad injectors to the list as well (frequently from low fuel pressure)
There are other risks on other model years.
One other issue is the weak STC fitting on the discharge of the HPOP, but apparently SOME of the 07's might have had the bracket which helped stabilize the fitting. I believed this helped it last longer. The dummy plugs in the oil rail are another weak spot, but installing the upgraded dummy plugs isn't too bad of a job.
Be sure to get it cold when you first start it up for a test drive. I would watch the battery voltage when cranking.
After driving (get it fully up to temp) for 15-20 minutes minimum, shut it down and try re-starting. It should start easily both cold and hot.
Last edited by bismic; Mar 28, 2017 at 08:07 PM. Reason: Not all (and maybe not many) of the 07's even got the bracket from the factory - thanks for the correction diesel_dan!
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 26
From: Middle Tn.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...used-6-0l.html
As folks posted above, the common "big ticket" risks are:
leaking head gaskets
plugged oil cooler
and I would add bad injectors to the list as well (frequently from low fuel pressure)
There are other risks on other model years.
One other issue is the weak STC fitting on the discharge of the HPOP, but the 07's had the bracket which helped stabilize the fitting. I believed this helped it last longer. The dummy plugs in the oil rail are another weak spot, but installing the upgraded dummy plugs isn't too bad of a job.
Be sure to get it cold when you first start it up for a test drive. I would watch the battery voltage when cranking.
After driving (get it fully up to temp) for 15-20 minutes minimum, shut it down and try re-starting. It should start easily both cold and hot.
As folks posted above, the common "big ticket" risks are:
leaking head gaskets
plugged oil cooler
and I would add bad injectors to the list as well (frequently from low fuel pressure)
There are other risks on other model years.
One other issue is the weak STC fitting on the discharge of the HPOP, but the 07's had the bracket which helped stabilize the fitting. I believed this helped it last longer. The dummy plugs in the oil rail are another weak spot, but installing the upgraded dummy plugs isn't too bad of a job.
Be sure to get it cold when you first start it up for a test drive. I would watch the battery voltage when cranking.
After driving (get it fully up to temp) for 15-20 minutes minimum, shut it down and try re-starting. It should start easily both cold and hot.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 26
From: Middle Tn.
Don't know about N.C. but factory dealers out here won't touch an emissions deleted truck. I personally won't touch a deleted or tuned truck. Quite often the sign of a driven hard put away wet truck.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 428
Likes: 2
From: Central Illinois
Other than that it's a very good looking truck. Last year of the 6.0 and kr as well. 20k on a 6.0 is pretty steep, so at that price I'd expect 0 issues and immaculate condition.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,931
Likes: 3,653
Good post on the FICM. I would just count on removing that and having it upgraded on every used 6.0L purchase!
I have had a slight bed plate leak since day 1. Drop just hangs there. I hate it, but living with it is easier!
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 26
From: Middle Tn.
I agree Mike. Even though it is not as common an issue as the others, the turbo is expensive!
Good post on the FICM. I would just count on removing that and having it upgraded on every used 6.0L purchase!
I have had a slight bed plate leak since day 1. Drop just hangs there. I hate it, but living with it is easier!
Good post on the FICM. I would just count on removing that and having it upgraded on every used 6.0L purchase!
I have had a slight bed plate leak since day 1. Drop just hangs there. I hate it, but living with it is easier!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,931
Likes: 3,653
The turbo issue was crazy on your truck. Can't run without one unfortunately. Unfortunate that the root cause couldn't have been identified. That would have been a good learning.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 392
Likes: 86
From: Roebuck, SC
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...used-6-0l.html
As folks posted above, the common "big ticket" risks are:
leaking head gaskets
plugged oil cooler
and I would add bad injectors to the list as well (frequently from low fuel pressure)
There are other risks on other model years.
One other issue is the weak STC fitting on the discharge of the HPOP, but the 07's had the bracket which helped stabilize the fitting. I believed this helped it last longer. The dummy plugs in the oil rail are another weak spot, but installing the upgraded dummy plugs isn't too bad of a job.
Be sure to get it cold when you first start it up for a test drive. I would watch the battery voltage when cranking.
After driving (get it fully up to temp) for 15-20 minutes minimum, shut it down and try re-starting. It should start easily both cold and hot.
As folks posted above, the common "big ticket" risks are:
leaking head gaskets
plugged oil cooler
and I would add bad injectors to the list as well (frequently from low fuel pressure)
There are other risks on other model years.
One other issue is the weak STC fitting on the discharge of the HPOP, but the 07's had the bracket which helped stabilize the fitting. I believed this helped it last longer. The dummy plugs in the oil rail are another weak spot, but installing the upgraded dummy plugs isn't too bad of a job.
Be sure to get it cold when you first start it up for a test drive. I would watch the battery voltage when cranking.
After driving (get it fully up to temp) for 15-20 minutes minimum, shut it down and try re-starting. It should start easily both cold and hot.
I bought an '05 used from a dealer... it lasted about 8 months then an injector went south and the stock egr cooler was leaking. I paid $15.3k for it and now have another $5k in it for repairs, and I did all the labor myself.
If you really want a 6.0 ( I love mine at the moment, it's running great):
*Get or borrow a scan gauge, hook it up, take it out on the interstate.
*ECT/EOT is critical. That oil cooler is a pain in the *** to change.
*If it's '05 or up, the STC fitting needs changing if it hasn't been already.
*Make sure you get to hear it start up stone cold. Don't let them warm it up before you get there (like my dealer did)
* put the AC on max, fan on high, engage the 4x4 switch. If the air goes to the defroster, you have vacuum problems. Could be just the rubber hose at the knuckles, the vacuum pump or 4x4 vacuum control, or worse, the knuckle seals. (another pain in the ***)
Just my $.02.
Good Luck!
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 392
Likes: 86
From: Roebuck, SC
True, we left out the "radiator style" egr cooler faults. I didn't do a delete on mine, but I did put in a "SS tube type" cooler.
