Hi all, quick question on the coolant additive tests. I read all about it, as the light come on for me yesterday, and I understand what I need to do to test. But in reading online, it talks about testing for 3 things:

1. Nitrates (to be sure there aren't any)
2. Corrosion inhibitor strength
3. Proper concentration (freeze protection)

But looking over my diesel supplement manual, it doesn't say anything about testing nitrates, just contaminates and concentration. Is nitrates not a test on 2015 models anymore?

Just don't want to miss anything.

The manual says I need test tool 300-ROB75240 refractometer to test concentration (about $60), and the test kit 328-R071-ELC (about $65) for corrosion inhibitor. Sound right, you do need both?

Thanks

 

There should be NO nitrates in the cooling system. That is why you test for them.

You can find a refractometer on eBay cheaper than $65. Many do not test for the coolant strength if they have never added any water or coolant.

The price for test strips sound right for the ELC corrosion.

Ford Rotunda 328-071ELC

Go to NAPA or some Navistar outlet to get the nitrate strips. Or from Accustrips when you order the ELC kit.

Ford Rotunda 328-2050

 

Nitrates don't just magically appear. The only way they show up in your coolant is IF Somebody added the wrong coolant. If you are 100% confident that nobody has added anything to your coolant ( except distilled water) you can probably skip that test. But it is the easiest of all the test to do.

Chances of the Freeze Protection not being adequate on 2 year old antifreeze is also pretty remote unless you've added a lot of water since the truck was new.

Corrosion Inhibitor's have been lasting 70,000 to 100,000 miles. If you plan on flushing your coolant at 105,000 miles per the maintenance schedule, you might have to add the Coolant rejuvinator in that last 30,000 miles of life. If you are following the Severe Duty maintenance schedule and changing at 60,000 miles, chances are you won't fail that test either.

The easiest thing to check is make sure your coolant is full. You don't want air getting into your coolant system.

 

Thanks guys. Are the dealers typically way overpriced for this stuff?

 

I doubt any dealers carry the test strips. They would have to order them for you. You can check the Rotunda website for prices. Dealer might give discount if you ask.

https://rotunda.service-solutions.co...spx?search=elc

Remember the 6,7 has two cooling systems, test both.

 

I got mine from accustrip.

 

Thanks guys. Just ordered the refractometer from Amazon for $54. And I see the corrosion inhibitor kit at Accustrip and the Rotunda website, but nothing to check for nitrates (to be sure there aren't any). I searched and couldn't find a hit. Can you point me to the proper strips to test for lack of nitrates. Since I bought used, I want to be sure the right stuff is there.

Thanks

edit: sorry, I see it was provided to me above, thank you!

 

Just ordered the ELC kit and the 4 strip nitrate test kit from Accustrip as well. Should be good to go, Thanks guys! Expensive truck, so don't want to ignore anything.

 

I do have one more question. When you guys test, are you just pulling the sample from the overflow/expansion tanks, or are you draining from the radiators? I've read both methods, but the expansion tank is WAY easier.

Why are there two cooling systems in these trucks too? Why couldn't they accomplish the same with one larger system?

 

The primary mainly cools the engine and the secondary cools the turbo, oil, intercooler, etc.

You can read about the cooling systems here.

https://www.vasa.org.au/wp-content/u.../2012_07MS.pdf

of the coffee table books for the 6,7 here

Coffee Table Books

 

I test from the degas bottle.


The test kit from accustrips will tell you the same.

 

The original instructions said to get your sample from the radiator drain valves. I don't know if there is a big difference, Unless they think the coolant coming from the Degas bottle might not be as mixed or representative as the coolant actually in the radiator. Getting a sample out of both radiator drains is a pain. The one valve is really hard to get your hand in there to open. Remember they cam out as the turn. Turn about 90° and the valve cams out of the body and turns the remaining 90°. So to get fluid to flow you need to turn the valve 180°.

Another tip, The original instructions said to test ambient temp coolant. Not hot coolant. So park your truck and let the coolant return to non-heated temps for the most accurate results.

Although when I've had it in dealer shops and asked them to test it, They walk over and pull a sample and tell me yes it's good. I know they could not have waited for it too cool off.

 

Awesome thanks guys. The stuff comes tomorrow.

 

pretty straight forward. Cold or just luke warm, with s synge pull a sample, put in one bottle (clear) then dip test strip and consult chart. It passes move onto next step.


Transfer into second bottle and then test with second strip. Passes you are done.

 

And you do it for both systems, got it. And check freeze temp with refractometer.