360fe pushrods too long?
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360fe pushrods too long?
Alright, what did I mess up? A little background, this is my first engine build and I'm building a 1973 360fe to replace the 360fe currently in my truck. 4bbl intake, rv cam, new carb, basic stuff. The motor was rebuilt and only used to plow with for a couple seasons so I'm freshening it all up.
I changed the cam and I am putting it all back together and I am having trouble with the rocker arms. This is my first engine build and I am positive that the pushrods that I took out are in the same exact location. Should the valve springs be depressed like this? It seems as though my push rods are now too long...They rocker arm bolts are all torqued down to spec. Pics for reference.
Will create a thread on the build after it's all completed..but until then just my rookie questions
I changed the cam and I am putting it all back together and I am having trouble with the rocker arms. This is my first engine build and I am positive that the pushrods that I took out are in the same exact location. Should the valve springs be depressed like this? It seems as though my push rods are now too long...They rocker arm bolts are all torqued down to spec. Pics for reference.
Will create a thread on the build after it's all completed..but until then just my rookie questions
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,477
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From: NAMPA, ID.
You have two valves that are partially depressed, that is normal and if you rotate the engine these two will return to the upright position and others will depress throughout the firing order. Ideally if the lifter is on the base circle of the cam (valve closed) the inner lifter plunger will be about halfway down in the lifter housing. If you are using new lifters that have not been pumped up with oil you can push down on the pushrod to check this. If your cam is stock your probably ok but it is worth checking. I hope I understood your question correctly.
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Thank you potatohead, I was wondering if this was normal or not. I pulled the valve cover off of the old engine and no valves were depressed like this. The cam is aftermarket (not broken in yet) from howards and the lifters are not new.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
New lifters are required on a new cam... there is being penny-wise but sometimes pound-foolish. I recommend you reconsider that move. Your call.
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Yeah, no good you will ruin it, BUT you can use new lifters on old cam. Although I probably wouldn't do that either but I am OCD. Also, be advised, there is a break in procedure on the new cam and lifters that is just as important.
Dan
Dan
FTE Legend
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: NY and VA
X 4 on new lifters with a new cam. The old lifters become "work hardened" and will waste a new cam in a hurry.
PS: there is a procedure for checking the proper pushrod length. Don't have it handy but basically the cylinder on TDC lifters "bled down", there should be a certain clearance between the rocker arm and the valve.
PS: there is a procedure for checking the proper pushrod length. Don't have it handy but basically the cylinder on TDC lifters "bled down", there should be a certain clearance between the rocker arm and the valve.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
5x good way to loose your first engine that gets wasted from used lifters, then how much money did you save.
Lifter have a concaved bottom so the cam lobe with get them to spin and when
the bottom of the lifter wear down they may not spin on startup which will wipe the lobe in no time fast.
No guesting when the lobe is wiped as your be the first to notice a rocker arm pounding or a few of them the more you drive it..
Orich
Lifter have a concaved bottom so the cam lobe with get them to spin and when
the bottom of the lifter wear down they may not spin on startup which will wipe the lobe in no time fast.
No guesting when the lobe is wiped as your be the first to notice a rocker arm pounding or a few of them the more you drive it..
Orich
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