Rolling start
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Rolling start
Posting this for a friend because he won't make an account.
96' F350 5 speed manual
Just recently the clutch quit disengaging. Fluid level appeared to be good, but the pedal would go to the floor and not return. Pulled trans to find a rather destroyed throw out bearing. Replaced it to no avail.
Now he has replaced the whole system (new clutch master cylinder, New line, new thorough bred clutch with solid mass flywheel,) and he installed a new slave cylinder, but he installed it incorrectly. He cut the band holding the plunger back before install instead of it snapping first time you press the pedal (how I read it's supposed to work.)
After replacing the individual components be attempted to start the truck (in neutral, clutch depressed.) He says it tries to move forward when cranking like it's on gear. Also after building pressure in the clutch and it sitting for a while he says it also lost pedal pressure.
Any help is appreciated.
96' F350 5 speed manual
Just recently the clutch quit disengaging. Fluid level appeared to be good, but the pedal would go to the floor and not return. Pulled trans to find a rather destroyed throw out bearing. Replaced it to no avail.
Now he has replaced the whole system (new clutch master cylinder, New line, new thorough bred clutch with solid mass flywheel,) and he installed a new slave cylinder, but he installed it incorrectly. He cut the band holding the plunger back before install instead of it snapping first time you press the pedal (how I read it's supposed to work.)
After replacing the individual components be attempted to start the truck (in neutral, clutch depressed.) He says it tries to move forward when cranking like it's on gear. Also after building pressure in the clutch and it sitting for a while he says it also lost pedal pressure.
Any help is appreciated.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
Simplest fix is what he should have gotten in the first place. Complete master-line-slave KIT, pre-built, pre-filled, pre-bled, sealed. No leaks, no air, no bleeding and about 10 minutes to install. Otherwise, it's pretty clear he still needs to bleed what he's got.
Another tip on the plunger strap - after putting the slave on the bracket on the tranny case, unclip the strap from the slave body. Then it will just be held in place but without breaking. So if you ever have to remove the slave again, you just re-clip the strap.
Another tip on the plunger strap - after putting the slave on the bracket on the tranny case, unclip the strap from the slave body. Then it will just be held in place but without breaking. So if you ever have to remove the slave again, you just re-clip the strap.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,583
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From: knoxville, tn
that is a lot to replace at one time, I would expect lots of bleeding the system before all the air is out.
Something that may help him, he can swap out the slave cylinder for an older one, I think about a 89 or 90 model. The cylinder is larger and has a bleeder screw on it for ease of bleeding.
If he is interested I can try to call and find out which year I have exactly, it has worked well for 5 or 6 years now
Something that may help him, he can swap out the slave cylinder for an older one, I think about a 89 or 90 model. The cylinder is larger and has a bleeder screw on it for ease of bleeding.
If he is interested I can try to call and find out which year I have exactly, it has worked well for 5 or 6 years now
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So he has a new universal slave cylinder with a bleeder screw. Pump the pedal, hold, open screw, steady stream he says. The pedal though only returns half way. You have to pull it up the rest of the way. And going down, you push the pedal, it clunks down and then there is pressure. Will get a video shortly.
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Posting Guru
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This is the current issue we are dealing with. From a few Google searches everyone is saying that it is a hydraulic issue, and from previously mentioned up above it seems that there is a lot of air in the system. The slave cylinder bleeds out a steady stream so that would be the bottom of the system correct?
How would we go about bleeding the master cylinder? I'm a little confused on how the manual mentions it. It sounds like you take the line off the master, fill it up and let it pour out into a catch pan until it is a steady stream, then reattach the line (while keeping the reservoir full so as not to cause air in the system again), then rapidly push the pedal 10 times (according to the manual) to force the rest of the air out of the system. Am I to be understanding that correctly?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
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Posting Guru
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Master is brand new, bushing that normally goes bad is brand new. Right out the box and installed.
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