Recently installed a new clutch in my 93, F350 crewcab (5.8L, ZF 5sp, internal slave cylinder, a zillion miles)

The entertainment was blogged here with photos:

http://frederic.midimonkey.com/f350-clutch.html

However, the last and final step is to bleed the clutch. I noticed the line to the slave cylinder was self-sealing. Not one drop came out when I released the funky clip with the even funkier too. However upon insertion of the line into the new slave cylinder, and opening the bleed screw on top to release the air, no air came out.

I double checked the resevior, it's full, and I can easily move the clutch pedal with my hand with no effort at all. I haven't pushed it down to the floor because the instructions indicating doing so, without a load on the slave cylinder, will result in a destroyed master cylinder.

So if no air is coming out, I'm assuming I installed things incorrectly?

I would have expected air to exit, and at least a minimal amount of pedal reistance...

 

Did any fluid come out at all? The air won't come out until it is forced out and it will take time for it to rise to the top of the slave cylinder without exercising the system - I certainly wouldn't over stroke the master cylinder until the load is on the slave cylinder to control its movement so it wont come apart. You might try clamping the slave cylinder and applying a small amount of force to the master sylinder to check for air at the bleed screw. Is everything in hydraulic system new?
If so I would think there would only be a minimal amount of air in system since the line has a sealing check valve - you may only get air to bleed after moving the slave cylinder several cycles of normal operation. I realize that you want to be sure the system works before you get everything assembled. It might be best to install clutch, pressure plate and even bellhousing and bleed at that point in the assembly since you have all the mechanical parts installed that are actuated by the slave cylinder. Does this sound reasonable?

 

No fluid for the 15 minutes I had the bleed screw open.

Someone on another list said ZF-tranny trucks can take much longer to self-bleed and further told me to be patient.

I was expecting it to be like most things... spraying fluid all over my face

The hydraulic bearing is new, as is the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and one bolt.

Everything is together already... just have to bleed it. See, I expected to drive it yesterday...

Thanks for the tip! I'm gonna give it a try again today.

 

Checked the procedure in 95 shop manual for internal clutch slave cyl. bleeding. From above your info assume master cylinder is full? Is pedal hard with line connected to slave? (From manual, apply 10 -15 pounds force to pedal to get 1/4 to 1/2" movement) - if not bench bleed master cylinder by opening check valv e in end of connected slave cyl. line, insert into a container of fluid and strokle the master cylinder, with pedal stroked release check valve and then release pedal. continue until master cylinder/pedal is hard and be sure to maintain MC full during this procedure.
Once MC/pedal is hard, connect hyd. line to slave cyl. fill MC reservoir and stroke pedal (manual says to install transmission prior to bleeding so the slave cylinder must have a load on it while bleeding) as rapidly as possible 5 to 10 strokes. Make sure MC is full and does not expose port in bottom of reservoir. Wait 1 to 3 minutes and repeat this procedure 3 more times: Then loosen bleed screw, depress pedal and hold pedal while tightening bleed screw. refill again - per manual system should be bled and should operate clutch.
Good luck - post back if I can provide anything further.

 

Edit second line to read "Is pedal hard with line disconnected from slave cylinder".
Apologize for that and poor typing - I know better, just never learned to type.

 

I gravity bled mine before even touching it - and it worked first time. Previous to that, on another truck I tried to follow the directions in the Haynes manual - no luck. I was never able to bleed that truck, since has been junked. Maybe the MC was damaged like you mentioned? I duno...but I didn't do anything but gravity bleed my 95. It was the ticket for me, couldn't of been easier.

You know where this belongs (clutch forum) but I'll letcha slide as an exception based on our last convo I decided to make a copy - so now there's one here and one in the clutch forum...first time I've used this feature

I'm reading your page - about having it in netrual for taking it out - FYI for all - keep the trans in gear when putting the transmission in so that you can turn the output shaft of the tranny and be able to turn the input shaft so the splines will line up with the clutch. It'll make it a lot easier to get the tranny on. It's fine to have it in neutral for removal, but put it in gear for installation.


Sometimes you can get the clutch line off with just a flatheaded screwdriver vs the special tool. On my 89' I was unable to slide that plastic white collar in and get the clutch fitting out of the slave. I had to cut the line and it went with replacement of the slave. Upon closer inspection of the line - it was caked with grime inside and probably not much good. I came to the conclusion that not many people ever change their clutch fluid and the grime accumulates and reduces fluid flow. This might explain the harder pedal and weaker clutch action than the new setup after being replaced.

Nice tranny tool - and ya that ZF is big and akward. I happened to have use of a tranny jack. I prefered to remove my transfer case vs not as the TC wants to make the tranny rotate on ya. First time I tried to just leave the TC on - wasn't horrible but alil better with it off.

Make sure the input shaft doesn't have any nicks or burrs on it or it'll wear out a pilot bearing in short order. If so, the input shaft needs to be replaced.

Nice write up!

 

I got the thing bled.

Took a while to figure out... but here is what happened.

A few months ago, my clutch actuation rod broke, so I made a replacement because it was a Sunday, the dealers weren't open, and I needed the truck *now*.

(broken one on top, homemade one on bottom)


At the end of the rod, that goes into the master cylinder, there is a ridge, which apparently snaps into some kind of clip to pull the piston back. If the clutch is properly bled as it was a while back when I made the rod, the pressure plate pushes the hydraulic slave cylinder back, which pushes the fluid up, which pushes the master cylinder out, pushing this rod out and the pedal.

When you have air in the system, that doesn't happen, so when you pull the pedal up, this rod should pull the piston back, which it didn't because I didn't make the grooves on the rod deep enough for the clip inside the master cylinder to bite into.

Once I figured out the piston was sitting forward, I figured out the fix very quickly. Just took 1/2 a day to get to that point because I *assumed* what I had repaired earlier, was working because it seemed to. Turned out i was just lucky up until the clutch replacement effort.

So, I made the groove deeper, pushed it in and heard a nice, distinctive "click", and pulled it out slowly, and magically, the system started dribbling brake fliuid out the hose I put on the fitting into a baby food jar.

Yay!

Just wanted to update everyone, and thank y'all for your advice/assistance. At least I won't have to think about this again for another 100K.

 

Sweet, glad you figured it out.

Whats interesting is that when I disconnected my clutch line - no fluid came out either (cap on master cyl). I just clipped it back in again and gravity bled it again and it was all set.

 

Whire we are on clutch master cylinder,under the dash where the master cylinder rod iis attached ,there is a brown plastic type of clip that master cylinder rod is held on with ,is that a ford item or kinda make your own. Thank's Gary 92 150

 

I'm sure the dealer carries this item... but I made the rod, bushing and clip because it was a Sunday, dealers were closed, and I needed the truck back on the road *now*. I was not in a position to leave it until the next business day, and possibly have to order the part.

Also, a junkyard item, but around here they're closed on Sundays as well.

 

Ok thank;s Fredric

 

I called my ford dealer, but I forgot to get the part number. My local dealer (as they all can) would order it and it costs $1.29 for the clip. It's the same clip found on Ford truck throttle bodies, if you feel like being incredibly frugal and visiting a junkyard.

I made a "C" clip out of a washer... I just cut into the washer with the bandsaw making it "C" shaped instead of "O" shaped like a washer should be.

Tapped it on with the end of the handle of my 1/2" ratchet and it's staying put.

I imagine a real "C" clip from a hardware store would work too.