Recently installed a new clutch in my 93, F350 crewcab (5.8L, ZF 5sp, internal slave cylinder, a zillion miles)

The entertainment was blogged here with photos:

http://frederic.midimonkey.com/f350-clutch.html

However, the last and final step is to bleed the clutch. I noticed the line to the slave cylinder was self-sealing. Not one drop came out when I released the funky clip with the even funkier too. However upon insertion of the line into the new slave cylinder, and opening the bleed screw on top to release the air, no air came out.

I double checked the resevior, it's full, and I can easily move the clutch pedal with my hand with no effort at all. I haven't pushed it down to the floor because the instructions indicating doing so, without a load on the slave cylinder, will result in a destroyed master cylinder.

So if no air is coming out, I'm assuming I installed things incorrectly?

I would have expected air to exit, and at least a minimal amount of pedal reistance...

 

Did any fluid come out at all? The air won't come out until it is forced out and it will take time for it to rise to the top of the slave cylinder without exercising the system - I certainly wouldn't over stroke the master cylinder until the load is on the slave cylinder to control its movement so it wont come apart. You might try clamping the slave cylinder and applying a small amount of force to the master sylinder to check for air at the bleed screw. Is everything in hydraulic system new?
If so I would think there would only be a minimal amount of air in system since the line has a sealing check valve - you may only get air to bleed after moving the slave cylinder several cycles of normal operation. I realize that you want to be sure the system works before you get everything assembled. It might be best to install clutch, pressure plate and even bellhousing and bleed at that point in the assembly since you have all the mechanical parts installed that are actuated by the slave cylinder. Does this sound reasonable?

 

No fluid for the 15 minutes I had the bleed screw open.

Someone on another list said ZF-tranny trucks can take much longer to self-bleed and further told me to be patient.

I was expecting it to be like most things... spraying fluid all over my face

The hydraulic bearing is new, as is the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and one bolt.

Everything is together already... just have to bleed it. See, I expected to drive it yesterday...

Thanks for the tip! I'm gonna give it a try again today.

 

Checked the procedure in 95 shop manual for internal clutch slave cyl. bleeding. From above your info assume master cylinder is full? Is pedal hard with line connected to slave? (From manual, apply 10 -15 pounds force to pedal to get 1/4 to 1/2" movement) - if not bench bleed master cylinder by opening check valv e in end of connected slave cyl. line, insert into a container of fluid and strokle the master cylinder, with pedal stroked release check valve and then release pedal. continue until master cylinder/pedal is hard and be sure to maintain MC full during this procedure.
Once MC/pedal is hard, connect hyd. line to slave cyl. fill MC reservoir and stroke pedal (manual says to install transmission prior to bleeding so the slave cylinder must have a load on it while bleeding) as rapidly as possible 5 to 10 strokes. Make sure MC is full and does not expose port in bottom of reservoir. Wait 1 to 3 minutes and repeat this procedure 3 more times: Then loosen bleed screw, depress pedal and hold pedal while tightening bleed screw. refill again - per manual system should be bled and should operate clutch.
Good luck - post back if I can provide anything further.

 

Edit second line to read "Is pedal hard with line disconnected from slave cylinder".
Apologize for that and poor typing - I know better, just never learned to type.

 

I gravity bled mine before even touching it - and it worked first time. Previous to that, on another truck I tried to follow the directions in the Haynes manual - no luck. I was never able to bleed that truck, since has been junked. Maybe the MC was damaged like you mentioned? I duno...but I didn't do anything but gravity bleed my 95. It was the ticket for me, couldn't of been easier. It's fine to have it in neutral for removal, but put it in gear for installation.

I'm reading your page - about having it in netrual for taking it out - FYI for all - keep the trans in gear when putting the transmission in so that you can turn the output shaft of the tranny and be able to turn the input shaft so the splines will line up with the clutch. It'll make it a lot easier to get the tranny on.

Sometimes you can get the clutch line off with just a flatheaded screwdriver vs the special tool. On my 89' I was unable to slide that plastic white collar in and get the clutch fitting out of the slave. I had to cut the line and it went with replacement of the slave. Upon closer inspection of the line - it was caked with grime inside and probably not much good. I came to the conclusion that not many people ever change their clutch fluid and the grime accumulates and reduces fluid flow. This might explain the harder pedal and weaker clutch action than the new setup after being replaced.

Nice tranny tool - and ya that ZF is big and akward. I happened to have use of a tranny jack. I prefered to remove the transfer case vs not as the TC wants to make the tranny rotate on ya.

Make sure the input shaft doesn't have any nicks or burrs on it or it'll wear out a pilot bearing in short order. If so, the input shaft needs to be replaced.

Nice write up!

 

What a detailed write up Frederic.......

Awesome!

 

This thread is a copy of:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=445789

He fixed it...