Tedster9, like all of us non-mechanic types working on old trucks we know very little about, I've experienced my share of reversals, twists, turns, and downturns--vicissitudes just seemed like the perfect word. LOL. Why, just the other day, I struggled for over an hour and a half getting just 4 bolts in for the rear motor mount. My mechanic friend could have/would have done it in less than five minutes I'm sure.

 

As you probably already know Jim, heat risers are designed to help with the drivability of a cold engine. I'm more familiar with the valves that are mounted on the exhaust pipe just below the exhaust manifold but yours should work the same. Based upon the drawing that Bill provided it looks like yours would always have some degree of exhaust gas heating the carb base even when hot.

Stu's truck with the butterfly rusted away is probably the same solution as the Jeep guys with V8s who used to just remove the heat valve and throw it away. They never missed it.

Makes me wonder if several of the posters on here that have had problems with stalling or vapor lock don't have a problem with a butterfly stuck in the cold position as it would be if it had been sitting unused for some time and the heat riser valve rusted shut? AMC used to make a heat riser valve lube that was a penetrating oil with graphite particles in it. Most good dealerships went through a lot of it as it was good for unsticking anything that was stuck. It was great because unlike most penetrating oils the graphite stayed after the oil boiled off.



I'm sure that the last can of this is long gone as have heat riser valves on new cars. Maybe someone here knows of an alternative that has the same long lasting properties?

As for your broken spring I'm sure that many of the OEM's purchased from the same supplier. I would try the GM replacement spring if it fits and isn't too expensive, but please let us know how it works.

 

No, it's not preheating anything anymore. It's gone and out of the way. Stu

 

On the 6's all the flap really does is let the exhaust linger in the area under the carb a little longer. You'll still get enough conduction heating from the connection between the intake and exhaust manifolds.

 

Thanks for the input. I placed an order this afternoon with the vender in TX that NumberDummy identified. They took my order, but e-mailed this evening that the item I wanted was no longer in stock. I'll try the NY outfit next. If that doesn't work out, I'll try the Chevy spring that I saw advertised. It's reassuring that I really don't need this part--just part of the, "My truck is completely stock", thing.

 

I read somewhere, its purpose is mainly to prevent carburetor icing. This can be an issue at times, but it's a fairly narrow band of temperatures and humidity conditions. If it was a plane that would be one thing..

The spring is actually a bimetallic strip. The heat should cause it to contract or whatever, and open the flapper more or less fully when at normal operating temp.

 

My truck isn't likely to see much winter use after it's all fixed up. It doesn't even have a working heater, LOL, and carburetor icing isn't something I'll need to worry about. I am getting into the "My truck is all stock", thing though. I knew I turned a corner when I painted my fire wall and paid huge dollars to have my seats redone with period correct materials.

When I first started working on my truck in 2014, the goal was just to get it back on the road and driving again. Painting the fire wall definitely wasn't something on my radar--I wasn't even sure I was going to paint the truck at all, LOL, and now I'm sand blasting engine bolts and painting them: putting primer on them too.

My vision (and $ commitment) for my truck is definitely changing. I blame it on FTE; and my wife--she just blames me. It's all good though. We've been married 47 years--no change of "vision" in this area of our lives is contemplated. Just don't look for her to turn up at Truckstock.

 

I'm going the other direction on mine. Started out wanting a Dearborn quality restoration. But little by little it's becoming a little different than original. Not a lot, but different. No matter.

This coming Tuesday is 47 years for us too. Stu

 

Congratulations Stu!

Lots of "miles" on your marriage. You may have picked up a few dents and dings along the way--maybe even a little surface rust in "all the usual spots"--but I'm hoping for you that everything on the inside is still just like new.

May God continue to bless and keep you both as you journey through life together.

Jim

 

So far so good. Best to you both too. Stu

 

Stu and Jim, congrats on your 47 years of wedded bliss! We have been married 32 years. My wife says she has invested so much time and effort in training me all these years, that she is not going to trade me in!

She likes Old Betsy (54 F100) and gave me the go ahead to sell my 70 F350 flatbed to buy the 55 F350 flatbed. She likes the 55 much better that the 70. But if I go to a Truckstock, she would not go. When I had my two trucks at a local car show, she came to visit but didn't stay long!

 

Life's been busy lately, but I was finally able to get the heat riser spring ordered today from the New York parts place that Number Dummy found. The parts guy confirmed that he did just have only one spring. If someone else is needing one, I'm pretty sure the Chevy springs would work; and they seem to be more available.

 

My part arrive today, and this is what it looks like:




From the looks of the packaging, it's not a made in China knockoff. I painted my manifold, and hopefully in doing so, didn't gum up the heat riser shaft. It still appears to move like it always did.

 

That spring looks a lot better than the one I offered you! Well done!

 

That's much prettier than mine. But all mine does is sit there, so hopefully it stays put and I not have to replace it. Stu