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So I have an 86 with the 4.9 and a 4 speed and the clutch is preventing me from driving it. I bought it a couple of months ago drove it for an hour then the alternator died. Replaced the alternator and it was running pretty well. Went to test drive it again and it wouldn't go in gear. I noticed that the master cylinder was empty so filled it up with fluid and gravity bled it but the only way I could get it in gear was to slam it into gear and then it wouldn't come out. I did notice, like I had read in other posts that the firewall flexes and it looked to be leaking fluid from the hose. What I am wondering is if I purchase a reinforcement plate for the firewall, a new master and slave cylinder and a hose is that going to fix the problem? I don't really want to throw a ton of money into it right now because me and my wife are expecting but I would love to have the joy of actually driving it. Thanks in advance!
Did you remove the rubber cup from the master cylinder before filling it with fluid?
People sometimes mistakenly add fluid on top of the gasket.
If there are visible cracks and tears in the firewall then it is best to add one of the two reinforcement plates available.
Do the simple and inexpensive things first to get it going.
Check the plastic bushing connecting the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. (Up above the throttle pedal)
Check that the pin it fits over is not grooved on the side facing the firewall.
These parts -bushing and pivot arm- are inexpensive and not hard to replace.
Someone here on the forum had shown pictures of their truck with a 2x3 strut from the master cylinder to radiator support.
Allowing them to drive their truck for about $2 and 5 minutes work.
Farm fixes aren't always a bad thing if it gets you where you need to go.
Someone here on the forum had shown pictures of their truck with a 2x3 strut from the master cylinder to radiator support.
Allowing them to drive their truck for about $2 and 5 minutes work.
I was going to try something like that on my 89 as a preventive measure. It' not cracked yet, but it will in time like all the others. I was going to get a piece of square tubing. I was going to make it removeable for service work, and I thought it might be handy to have it in there to put a piece of plywood on to climb in and work on the engine where I can't reach. Like headers, suspension lifts are not the greatest sometimes, and I am 6ft 1 inch tall.
I did pull the rubber boot off which was actually ripped. I also tried a temporary fix which was putting a 2x4 wedged under the clutch master cylinder and to the right of the drivers headlight which fixed it from flexing but that still didn't work. I can see the slave cylinder moving with someone pressing the clutch in with me under the vehicle but it still doesn't want to shift into gear
Make sure it's full of fluid, and then take it for a ride over some rough hilly roads. That will usually work the air up as you are driving. It should get better and better as you drive it.
The best way to get it in gear is to get it running, push in on the clutch, and then force it into 4th gear. With the clutch still pushed down, quickly move the lever to 3rd, then 2nd. Take off and if you don't have to stop, it should shift alright with the rpms as you go on up through the gears. Keep pushing in on the clutch, even though it still doesn't work very well.
By the time I got down to the end of my lane, my clutch was working 100% better.
Make sure it's full of fluid, and then take it for a ride over some rough hilly roads. That will usually work the air up as you are driving. It should get better and better as you drive it.
The best way to get it in gear is to get it running, push in on the clutch, and then force it into 4th gear. With the clutch still pushed down, quickly move the lever to 3rd, then 2nd. Take off and if you don't have to stop, it should shift alright with the rpms as you go on up through the gears. Keep pushing in on the clutch, even though it still doesn't work very well.
By the time I got down to the end of my lane, my clutch was working 100% better.
Ill try that out after I do some stuff but I'm not going to lie I laughed a little after reading that since I do live in a highly populated area!
Did you remove the rubber cup from the master cylinder before filling it with fluid?
People sometimes mistakenly add fluid on top of the gasket.
If there are visible cracks and tears in the firewall then it is best to add one of the two reinforcement plates available.
Do the simple and inexpensive things first to get it going.
Check the plastic bushing connecting the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. (Up above the throttle pedal)
Check that the pin it fits over is not grooved on the side facing the firewall.
These parts -bushing and pivot arm- are inexpensive and not hard to replace.
Someone here on the forum had shown pictures of their truck with a 2x3 strut from the master cylinder to radiator support.
Allowing them to drive their truck for about $2 and 5 minutes work.
Farm fixes aren't always a bad thing if it gets you where you need to go.
Are you talking about dorman 14041 for the bushing? Where can I buy the pivot arm?
I had a similar problem with Big Blue, and even after bleeding the slave cylinder it didn't want to shift. But, I did as Dave said and drove it around the neighborhood, pumping the clutch frequently. By the time I'd gone a mile it was shifting easily.
I will admit that the bushing was worn, but even after replacing it the thing still wouldn't shift. The majority of the problem was bubbles in the hydraulics.
Well thank you guys for all your help. I'll check that stuff out tomorrow and I saw a local jyard has an 85 so I'll see what I can get. I'll let you guys know how it works out. Pretty good looking truck for a junkyard.
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