Usually when I travel over 55mph, my mechanical gauge will show 180-185 and then settle back down to 160 (using 160 stats) when going under 55mph. Lately, the temp climbs to 190 to 210 and will not go back down. At a recent car show, it started leaking coolant from the top of the radiator tank seam so now the radiator is out and will be going to the shop.

I am thinking that possibly I have a clogged radiator that would account for the lack of flow and the higher running temps but here is where I am on the fence. Although there are no signs of any problem with my water pump, I am wondering since the radiator is out if the way would it be a good idea to remove the water pump for an inspection of the impellers? I have read that weak water pumps could also account for the problem I was having. I know the decision to remove and inspect the water pump is mine but would appreciate anyone's input. Thanks. Steve

 

Its accessible and drained, why not inspect the water pump for bearing wear ?

Only my opinion.

Tom

 

The symptoms you described could also be from air flow issues, ie: radiator core blocked with bugs and debris, loose fan belt.
Check your maintenance records, but if you don't know when the last time the coolant pump was rebuilt, now is the time to do it.

 

Appreciate the inputs. I can't say when the pump was was rebuilt for it was on the truck when I bought it 7 years ago. I have a new (or rebuilt) spare pump. With regards to the fan belt tightness, I have just under 1/2 deflection on the belt-it's not tight like a guitar string.

 

In a 53 to 56 you need the rubber piece that goes to the bottom of the radiator from the gravel pan, one that goes from the top valence where the hood latch is to the top of the radiator, and one that hangs down from the inside of the hood. And you may have all of these and still have problems....

But if you have a rebuilt pump sitting on your shelf, I would put it on now and get your old one rebuilt and put it on the shelf.

 

Abe - do you have any pictures of the rubber airflow deflectors you mention ?
My 55 had cooling issues when I purchased it. I immediately guessed the air coming thru the grill was going up and over the radiator, not thru it, I sealed that area off with a piece of 1/4" rubber and my temps dropped 30 degrees. Id like to see what the factory set up was.

 

Out of Midwest Early Ford catalog

 

On my truck the bottom rubber strip is completely gone and the top is harder than rock and half chipped away. The hood piece I didn't even know existed until last night. Way gone.

I had my original radiator rodded out when I first had the truck put back together and I have always had cooling issues at high rpm/speed.

I've even documented it(neither of these threads contain a solution):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...speed-rpm.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...high-rpms.html


I "tested" it out last summer to see if it still does it, and on a long 5-mile gently-but-noticeably-sloped local highway at ambient temps of ~100ºF and 3000rpm/60mph, the truck started climbing up to 215+º at the upper neck of the radiator and only stopped climbing when I stopped for groceries.

Guess my rodded radiator wasn't the issue. Maybe rubber shrouds, maybe the shop that did the roding didn't do it well.


I'm going to go by a good ole rad shop today and see how much it'll cost to re-core my original, and if I like it I'll do it, if not I'll buy the 3-4 core from China.


I'll get back to you as soon as I've ruled those rubber pieces and radiator out.

Good luck.


P.S. Abe, thank you for posting your information, never knew about the third one on the hood. And their pretty cheap, too.

 

As I said to Steve today in a PM, my 54 doesnt have the rubber piece hanging from the hood. I have had one I think since 1999 when I redid my truck but the metal C-strip that is slides into is gone. I could get one made at a local sheet metal place. Matter of fact the C-strip is the same as the strip that holds on the rubber that goes between the running boards and the cab and I had them make one of those for me.

 

Here are pictures of the hood rubber on my pretty much stock 55 F350.







It is old and hard and it curls back. Hope this helps.

 

I'm going to go by a good ole rad shop today and see how much it'll cost to re-core my original, and if I like it I'll do it, if not I'll buy the 3-4 core from China.


I just had mine recored and the heater core repaired, it cost me $700. I have not had the truck out so dont know how it is working

 

During my lunch break, I went into town and dropped off my radiator. I'll see what needs fixing in a few days.

 

Was your water pump changed-out?

 

Yes. Now it is 7 years old, but at the time of those threads, it was essentially new. The general behavior of the engine has remained the same: long periods of high speed raises the temp. (Realistically I don't think I'll ever drive this truck out of town, so it's a non-issue.)



$700 for a recore original radiator is far more than I'm willing to spend, but I'll go there later and ask anyways.

 

Guys, a quick, cheap and a pretty good indication of a radiator health can be had in a couple minutes. The radiator does not even have to be removed from the vehicle.
Remove the lower radiator hose. Remove the top radiator hose and tape the inlet with a good quality duck/duct tape. Hold your hand over the bottom outlet and fill the radiator with a hose. Remove your hand from the bottom outlet. The radiator should dump quickly, like seconds, if the radiator is not stopped. If it runs slow and dribbles, you have a radiator problem.
Of course, a flathead V8 is a little bit more involved but can be checked the same way.