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I also found something saying it was just a drip at start up from the IP, I was expecting it to spray out of the loosened injector lines at full pressure... Maybe a new starter and then just patience and crank cool cycles??? I'm sorry this is my first time firing a diesel motor that has been sitting without fuel lines hooked up. My experience rebuilds/ motor swaps are more along the lines of 350 carburetor motors
They cost more than a rebuilt starter from a McParts store for sure, but
even with a life time warranty, it`s a pain to be under the truck in a couple
years swapping it out again.
Just went through this with alternators, got 40+K miles out of one, and then
went through 3 just to find one that didn`t have dry bearings right out of the box.
Rebuilds from Mexico.
That weird oil line looks like the aftermarket stuff a lot of uhaul trucks/vans/various cab and chassis have. Some even had fitting added to the oil cooler.
Fan clutches can be a pain but I've yet to have one I couldn't remove, even a small air hammer works wonders.
I GOT IT RUNNING!!!! Not driving though. I must have left a transmission cooler line loose and blew it off when I went to test drive it. I didn't feel like crawling under there in the pool of my trucks blood tonight. So I'll chase it down tomorrow. The important thing is the motor finally started and at least sitting still runs like a top.
Also the glow plugs do not work, light comes on for a couple seconds then they start cycling. When I got the motor it had the two yellow wires taped off and a battery lead ran to that spot on the controller. So I'm guessing Its the harness and I need to swap mine over. or jerry rig it like they had it.
Ok, I had to replace the radiator it leaked under pressure once the motor got up to temp. Then I have had transmission cooler lines leaking every time I turn around. Going to replace them all. Then I should be good to go! I appreciate the help from everyone here
well, while initially it drove. Now it won't go into gear. Shift it and the transmission does nothing. It is full of fluid, so I'm guessing it's the torque converter I initially suspected of being bad, and then of course my ignorance of not syncing the converter rotating it on into position. So now I get to drop the tranny replace it and hope that's the issue
ok, so I haven't pulled the tranny yet. But I have a two options I'm looking at. A complete rebuild for $1,400, and I found a local junk yard with several transmission unknown mileage for $800. After tomorrow I will have the money to do either of them. I am leaning toward the rebuild(nice new basically brand new tranny with HD clutches and shift kit), but I would love to save $600 and be able to go pick up a tranny and put it in without the waiting 3 days for the rebuild. I'm tired of being without a truck, but I am skeptical of a tranny with a 2 month warranty vs a rebuilt one with 1 year warranty. I could also replace the pump and converter since I'm 90% sure the clutches are good, but that's going to run me around $600
Finally, I have a running driving truck again. Had the transmission rebuilt. The "new to me" motor feels like it has tons of torque, but is very slow compared to the low compression motor I pulled. Some may be transmission related I think I need to adjust or replace the Throttle position sensor because the motor I put in had a vacuum sensor and I put my electronic sensor on it with the adjustment where the old screw marks were. When I punch it from a stop it will not shift until I let of the throttle. It will lock around 3,500 RPMS and stay there.
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