When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys, Im finally here... but still need some help.
Ive got everything back together, but not turning over. Im assuming its in the wiring harness somewhere, or a ground that Ive missed. I have dash lights working but thats it.
Im hoping you guys can give me some thoughts where to start looking. This is my first project like this, and I've learnt everything on here along the way. This site and everyone on it has been a tremendous help to me. Now hopefully i can get her to fire up so i can finish this project off.
- When you say 'back of the solenoid to starter' do you mean negitive post of solinoid to starter? if so yes.
-Solenoid has a good ground to fender wall. (would stainless steel bolts effect the ground?)
-so i should run a wire from positive on battery to the S terminal on starter solenoid? am i getting that right?
thanks for help
For the solenoid to starter wire, I meant from the big post on the right. The solenoid grounds through the body. Stainless steel mounting screws should not affect it either way
in the final point, I wasn't suggesting that you run a wire from the positive to the S terminal. The S terminal is energized by the ignition switch to activate the solenoid. You can momentarily jumper the S terminal to send power to the starter,
if the starter spuns spins when you jumper to the S terminal, that first bit of wiring is ok, but you're problem may lie in the ignition circuit
would the lock/cylinder effect anything.
i replaced the ignition switch and also picked up a new lock/cylinder. i think they gave me the wrong cylinder, i can't get it to click in all the way.
so my question is can i just use a screw driver to turn the switch to start/run until i get a new one.
just want to rule that part out? no cylinder in the switch wouldn't effect anything right?
and also i will go try by passing the switch and get back to you.
For the solenoid to starter wire, I meant from the big post on the right. The solenoid grounds through the body. Stainless steel mounting screws should not affect it either way
in the final point, I wasn't suggesting that you run a wire from the positive to the S terminal. The S terminal is energized by the ignition switch to activate the solenoid. You can momentarily jumper the S terminal to send power to the starter,
if the starter spuns spins when you jumper to the S terminal, that first bit of wiring is ok, but you're problem may lie in the ignition circuit
the wire from positive to S terminal worked, it was cranking. where are the first spots in the harness i should start looking?
there's a yellow wire, on the left post of the starter solenoid, that goes into the cab to power stuff
power comes back, from the ignition switch, to the S terminal on the solenoid for crankiing
if no crank, no power from ignition switch
check for power going in to, and out of, the ignition switch. You'll need a wiring diagram. Check the links at the top of the page, a shop manual or fordification.net
good morning, i'm back at it this morning.
i finally got a cylinder to lock into my ignition switch, took one from my 74.
anyways since i bypassed the ignition switch, now when i hook up my battery she starts cranking over on it's own. and i don't have it bypassed anymore.
any ideas on that?
Check the wire that goes to the S terminal on the starter solenoid. It should only be hot when turning the key to start.
I believe NumberDummy said there are three different ignition switches for our trucks. Maybe the one you're using is incompatible with your setup. I think you said your harness came from a 77?
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
