Cylinder head fuel & oil rail plug o-ring replacement
#1
Cylinder head fuel & oil rail plug o-ring replacement
Is this job worth doing as a preventative maintenance item? I replaced the rear fuel rail plug (aka banjo bolt) o-rings because they were very easy to get to with the up-pipes out. But the cylinder head plug in the rear is pretty high up and even with the up-pipes out, there isn't enough room to get a breaker in there that's long enough and has enough movement to loosen it. The front would be easier to get to, but both accessory brackets need to come off to get to them on both sides.
As far as I know, none of them leak but they're all 17 years old...
BTW in case you haven't been following, I'm doing up-pipes, injectors, turbo, rebuilt HPOP & fuel bowl, boots & clamps, etc. so I'm trying to knock out any PM items while I have it apart.
As far as I know, none of them leak but they're all 17 years old...
BTW in case you haven't been following, I'm doing up-pipes, injectors, turbo, rebuilt HPOP & fuel bowl, boots & clamps, etc. so I'm trying to knock out any PM items while I have it apart.
#2
I did my rear passenger plug removed the intake components topside then used a craftsman 1/2 in drive flex head ratchet 32 buck at sears. The head of the ratchet goes right into the plug. If your already that taken apart just do it the plug w ring is 13 at ford. Be sure to clean it well and use the appropriate locktite for large diameters.
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jasond5150
335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland
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06-14-2004 01:22 PM