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tap the round part of the head a couple times with a hammer to help losen up. a flex head 1/2" drive rachet works best to get in there. pop it loose, and turn back and forth a few times before running plug out. the plugs were originally loctited in and if you run the plug right out with out going back and forth a couple times you run the risk of pulling the head threads out with the plug. you dont need loctite going back in though. the redesign dosnt need it.
My snap-on flex head ratchet cost me $100 off the truck. But I love it. Well worth the money to me. Get the one that has the shaft split and the head revolves int the prongs.
A buddy of mine decided to drill a hole through his firewall to get to his. Probably not the route I would have taken but, when in need.
ford does the same thing with customer permission and plugs it with a rubber plug. you may be able to get a plug and make it look clean if you go this route.
Does anyone know the torque specks on the plug? I must have over tightened the first time because it is leaking again. Also is it necessary to put lock tight on the plug when re-installing?
what if ya can't break it loose, not even with a cheater bar???? I am loosing a gallon in a thousand miles now!!!!!! any more tricks, as I really dont want to pull the engine just for that.
we used a 1/2 drive craftsman ratchet. i then placed a leather belt over the ratchet (my dad held it in place)and i pulled from the drivers side fender ...and walla.
cleaned the end of the gallery out with acetone. applied loctite and tightened with ratchet. the torque is 60 ft. lbs according to ih on the instructions if i remember correctly. how you would torque it to that i dont know with a torque wrench. wont fit. a tie down would also work looped over the end of the ratchet. just some ideas for some thing to pull from with more leverage.
I couln't get mine out so i heated it than i let it cool off and it came loose Its the locktight thay use at the factory. remember Dont try and remove it whean it's hot or you will strip out the threads(heat expands) wait for it to cool or put some ice on it to cool it off put a breaker bar with a cheater pipe and wola it will come loose turn it out about 1 to 2 turns than back and forth a cople of times than back it out dont force it.....I cleaned the threads and used locktite on the new one dont get any locktite on the blue o ring and torque to 60 lbs and your done.........