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Mar 6, 2017 | 10:29 AM

11perry

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no start issue

Looking for a little help. 1997 f250 7.3,4x4 automatic, 252 k. Truck died. Had it towed home. Discovered fuse #22 blown, also #18. Fuel bowl heater shorted out. Drained fuel bowl, fuel was black. Assumed injector O- rings and replaced. Purged air. Pulled fuel bowl put in new heater and O-rings. Truck turns over no start. Fuel bowl fills. WTS light comes on, tach moves no smoke from tailpipe. Oil levels are good. Replaced one battery the other checked out good. I changed the oil, figured it had fuel in it. Replaced idm, no start. Replaced pcm, no start. purchased A&E scanner getting dtc p1663,p1667 and sometimes p1668. I am assuming the wiring to these 3 pins from pcm to idm are the issue. I have a breakout box and need help understanding test results. I am reading what I can about troubleshooting electric issues and want to make sure I understand correctly. Should I replace the 3 wires from pcm to idm associated with the 3 dtc's? If so how? Truck has been down since 1/5/17 and sitting in my driveway. I live in CT and lost time working on truck due to weather. Any advice appreciated.John

Mar 6, 2017 | 10:46 AM

knottyrope

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From: Bahstun

(P1218 OR P1219 OR P1298 OR P1667 OR P1668) = THESE DTCs INDICATE THAT PCM HAS DETECTED A CONCERN NO CID
LINE.POSSIBLE CAUSES ARE:FAULTY PCM OR IDM,OR OPEN OR
GROUNDED CIRCUIT.

did you look at the wiring near the fuel heater? possible one burned up somethings

should always replace batteries as a pair, the older one will pull down the new one

Mar 6, 2017 | 12:08 PM

11perry

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I will look overall wires and pick up new battery. Thanks

Mar 6, 2017 | 02:31 PM

Hussler

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From: Medford Oregon

John, sometimes replacing parts before scanning for codes can introduce problems that are almost impossible to troubleshoot. Reviewing your post I'm assuming your replaced the IDM and left it installed, then replaced the PCM, correct? Just because you replaced both doesn't mean both are good. At the stage you're at I would reinstall original IDM, PCM, clear the codes and try to restart, then re-scan for codes, get back to square 1 since you now have a scanner.

Just a suggestion ...

Here is a link for IDM - PCM troubleshooting, in case you don't have it. Go to "Electronic Control System Diagnostics" then scroll down to "PCM - IDM Communications". I've never heard anyone replacing individual wires.

97-15A 7.3L DI Turbo Workshop Manual

Mar 6, 2017 | 05:58 PM

11perry

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Ok thanks
I purchased the IDM and PCM from same place refurbished, with core exchanged, so I do not have the ones I removed. If I understand correctly P1663 FDCS is circuit 821 PCM pin 95-IDM pin 17.P1667 is CI circuit 817 PCM pin 96-IDM 16. P1668 is EF circuit 818 PCM pin 48-IDM pin 4. Are these 3 wires the only place I need to concentrate on, or do I need to go further to the relays as well. I did replace the relays for PCM and IDM with new ones. I assumed that the 3 wires in question could be replaced and would solve the problem if it's a short to power, or is it not that simple. I will admit I am having trouble fully understanding the electronic schematics but will keep studying up on it. Should I remove the wiring harness, take off tape and casing and look for issues? Also I purchased a breakout box and am studying up on pin out test results. I really need to get the truck going and take pride fixing myself. Maybe I am in over my head, so after a lot of head scratching I thought it's time to ask for help and really appreciate the help this forum provides.

Mar 6, 2017 | 06:06 PM

11perry

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Yes I purchased IDM first, then PCM, If that answered your question

Mar 6, 2017 | 06:15 PM

z31freakify

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From: Las Cruces New Mexico

How's the oil level on the HPOP reservoir?
Hows your oil level? I know you got codes for electrical but start with the simplest stuff first. Also It take a lot of cranking when injectors are removed.