Idling time - warnings and risks
#31
I am adding it to increase idle in cold temps for remote start situations due to idle time and quicker warmup, occasional use while waiting for people in cold temps, and in general, to cut down on wet stacking during idle situations. Not that I idle a ton.
#33
#34
Good question. My kit will be here Friday. Trying to decide where to mount the switch/****.
I am adding it to increase idle in cold temps for remote start situations due to idle time and quicker warmup, occasional use while waiting for people in cold temps, and in general, to cut down on wet stacking during idle situations. Not that I idle a ton.
I am adding it to increase idle in cold temps for remote start situations due to idle time and quicker warmup, occasional use while waiting for people in cold temps, and in general, to cut down on wet stacking during idle situations. Not that I idle a ton.
#35
hmm. Do you mean under the dash dimmer switch? I'm thinking I'd like it on the right of steering wheel so you don't see it all the time getting in and out. Just hate the thought of drilling a hole in the bottom panel. But if it comes with a label that gives a finished look and the **** covers the hole it should look good. I might try to get a ford **** that matches the rest of the interior and adapt it to fit the kit switch.
#36
#37
#38
So I got the BD Diesel high idle kit installed this weekend. Essentiially it's a premade wiring harness with potentiometer (adjustable resistance). It's very well made and can work during remote start running as well. It took me about 2-3 hrs, taking my time. About 40 minutes for all the wiring and the rest for figuring out how and where to mount the switch/dial and a trip to the store.
The only complaint is that the kit instructs you to tie the red and yellow of the kit wiring together for vehicles with factory remote start. That was me. The kit came with nice wiring connectors but none big enough to handle these two wires together at the same time. Not a big deal but I had to go to the hardware store to buy some larger disconnects wasting time. The instuctions with kit were very good by the way.
First I located the stubbed wires under the steering column behind the e-brake. I then put the wire connectors on the proper wires. I then made the connection to the kit wires.
Next I determined the mounting location for the switch. I put it to right of steering column on the lower panel. I removed the panel to determine I needed to drill through the support panel behind the panel to pass the switch through to the outer panel.
I then lined things up checking behind panels before I cut or drilled to be sure I wasn't going to hit anything. Once sure of location I drilled the bottom panel.
I then made some adjustments on the back of panel to allow the switch to sit flat.
I then mounted the high idle kit sticker on the panel. Makes for a clean look.
I then drilled a large hole in the rear support panel making sure it was lined up with the hole in the exterior panel. The large hole gave me some leeway in case I was out of alignment a bit.
Then I routed the kit wiring along factory harnesses for protection to ensure it wouldn't get pinched by anything. I passed the switch through the rear support panel.
I then zip-tied kit wiring in place and rebundled the rest of the stubbed wires.
Then I mounted the switch. Looks pretty good. Somewhat hidden and out of the way but easy to get to in order to use it. I might try to find a ford **** for a more factory look.
It works great. Just clicking it on brings idle to 900. A hair more on the dial and you're at 1200. E-brake has to be on even just one click for it to work. If you forget to shut it off and either step on brake or disengage e-brake the high idle state disengages. Very happy with that.
The only odd thing, which I assume is normal (I'll call BD Diesel tomorrow), is when you first turn it on it causes rpm to drop about 100 rpm for a second then it raises. You'll see it in the first video.
Here's a couple of videos. First is when the truck was already running and second is remote start condition. In the second remote start video you'll see when I put the key in and turn the truck on that the rpm is/was at 1200 in remote start mode.
The only complaint is that the kit instructs you to tie the red and yellow of the kit wiring together for vehicles with factory remote start. That was me. The kit came with nice wiring connectors but none big enough to handle these two wires together at the same time. Not a big deal but I had to go to the hardware store to buy some larger disconnects wasting time. The instuctions with kit were very good by the way.
First I located the stubbed wires under the steering column behind the e-brake. I then put the wire connectors on the proper wires. I then made the connection to the kit wires.
Next I determined the mounting location for the switch. I put it to right of steering column on the lower panel. I removed the panel to determine I needed to drill through the support panel behind the panel to pass the switch through to the outer panel.
I then lined things up checking behind panels before I cut or drilled to be sure I wasn't going to hit anything. Once sure of location I drilled the bottom panel.
I then made some adjustments on the back of panel to allow the switch to sit flat.
I then mounted the high idle kit sticker on the panel. Makes for a clean look.
I then drilled a large hole in the rear support panel making sure it was lined up with the hole in the exterior panel. The large hole gave me some leeway in case I was out of alignment a bit.
Then I routed the kit wiring along factory harnesses for protection to ensure it wouldn't get pinched by anything. I passed the switch through the rear support panel.
I then zip-tied kit wiring in place and rebundled the rest of the stubbed wires.
Then I mounted the switch. Looks pretty good. Somewhat hidden and out of the way but easy to get to in order to use it. I might try to find a ford **** for a more factory look.
It works great. Just clicking it on brings idle to 900. A hair more on the dial and you're at 1200. E-brake has to be on even just one click for it to work. If you forget to shut it off and either step on brake or disengage e-brake the high idle state disengages. Very happy with that.
The only odd thing, which I assume is normal (I'll call BD Diesel tomorrow), is when you first turn it on it causes rpm to drop about 100 rpm for a second then it raises. You'll see it in the first video.
Here's a couple of videos. First is when the truck was already running and second is remote start condition. In the second remote start video you'll see when I put the key in and turn the truck on that the rpm is/was at 1200 in remote start mode.
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LA_BigRed
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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12-03-2004 11:59 AM