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Running for 5 minutes after oil change
Died.
Crank but no restart.
Low ICP.
Unplug ICP, psi OK.
Still no start
Buzz test OK
Cody test, no O-Ring leaks
RPM spinning at crank, so CPS OK.
No DTC other than low IPC at crank.
I have Dual HPOP, so had to remove intake spider to get to the IPR.
Remove IPR, disassemble, clean and reassemble.(It's only 1 year old)
Decided to chase an oil leak we've had for a while, so out everything came.
Found the oil leak, HPOP front gasket.
**Edit gasket was leaking due to pulled threads on front cover for HPOP bolt ***
So we are cleaning everything up and re-installing.
Anything else to check before buttoning it all up.
I am thinking of popping the valve covers off to take a glance at the injectors. Just did o-rings 1 year ago. Maybe poppet clearance check.
Thanks
ZooDad
Last edited by ZooDad; Mar 5, 2017 at 12:08 AM.
Reason: Info Added
Maybe it's the differences between 99's and 2000. Or maybe it is modifications due to the addition of dual HPOPs. Or maybe it is another milestone in my march toward senility. Or maybe it's just my ignorance... but I don't recognize several lines in your motor, and wondered if you would identify what they are, where they are going, and what fluids they carry?
See arrows in your photo:
I'm thinking maybe that center line that is disconnected (blue text) is the open end of the line that has a worm gear clamp (orange text) that is the fuel bowl drain?
Maybe it's the differences between 99's and 2000. Or maybe it is modifications due to the addition of dual HPOPs. Or maybe it is another milestone in my march toward senility. Or maybe it's just my ignorance... but I don't recognize several lines in your motor, and wondered if you would identify what they are, where they are going, and what fluids they carry?
See arrows in your photo:
.
Y2KW57,
LoL, you not going crazy. Same engine. We have a full regulated fuel system. So you yellow text is correct, Its fuel lines.
Your Orange and Blue is actually the same line. Its the fuel filter drain line, Its curved into the valley.
The Red is the driver side fuel line that goes to the regulator. The end is just out of the way over the valve cover. I will post a photo reassembled.
Have to get a couple gaskets and a thread kit from Clay. Found out why the front gasket was leaking. I must have pulled the driver side HPOP threads out...oops, it would not tighten up this afternoon.
Replaced a couple hoses on the Terminator also. Got it all cleaned up.
While you are checking things, have you looked at the main 32pin harness for any old wear points on the driver side? Usually a bare wire there will only affect one injector and will typically set a code, but since you have no codes and the whole engine is dead, my idea probably does not make sense.
Is the fuse good for the PCM? Could the fuel bowl heater have shorted out? Do you have the old style heater that is not insulated?
You could check the IDM for water intrusion and make sure the connector into the ECM is tight. Do you have a way to communicate with the ECM?
Larry
OK this is nuts.
got it all back together.
Still low ICP. Unplug it and I get a little more but nowhere enough to fire (less than 50 psi)
IDM is good.
ICP is one year old (Ford)
IPR (removed and cleaned) 1 year old Ford)
CPS is new (Ford)
Remember back in the old days, whenever chips got bumped on the back side of the PCM, sometimes it would lead to a no start condition?
The fix usually was to disconnect batteries, remove PCM cover (if cut open around chip board, else remove PCM if required), remove and reseat chip (or chip daughter card), tape securely in place, put everything back, reconnect the batteries, and oftentimes that was all that was needed to get the truck to fire back up again.
Not saying this is your issue. I don't even know if your old truck (or now your son's truck) has a chip... but if it does have anything plugged into the test port on the PCM, that is at least worth a status check visit.
Could it be the wire connection to the IPR? As if the IPR is unplugged? Maybe while you were moving everything around the wire broke somewhere in the harness where you wouldn't notice it?
Remember back in the old days, whenever chips got bumped on the back side of the PCM, sometimes it would lead to a no start condition?
The fix usually was to disconnect batteries, remove PCM cover (if cut open around chip board, else remove PCM if required), remove and reseat chip (or chip daughter card), tape securely in place, put everything back, reconnect the batteries, and oftentimes that was all that was needed to get the truck to fire back up again.
Not saying this is your issue. I don't even know if your old truck (or now your son's truck) has a chip... but if it does have anything plugged into the test port on the PCM, that is at least worth a status check visit.
Yes there is a chip. We set it back to stock no change. The cover has already been modified to prevent kick out. But I will remove it, just to eliminate the possibility.
Thanks for the reminder.
Originally Posted by SaintITC
Could it be the wire connection to the IPR? As if the IPR is unplugged? Maybe while you were moving everything around the wire broke somewhere in the harness where you wouldn't notice it?
Funny you mention this. I am actually going to test this out this afternoon, and also ohm the magnet part.
I actually had the wiring harness out. I checked plugs and whatnot, but did not test wires, should have... Hindsight.
If I still don't find anything, I'll pull valve covers and see what's there.
If removing the covers does not show any hpop leaks, I believe you have an ECM problem. This shutdown was immediate. You know you have no hpop pressure. If an air pressure test of the HPOP galleries in the heads shows no leaks, then you have an electrical issue. If removing the chip does nothing, I believe that your ecm is shot. If the wiring was an issue, the ECM would issue lots of codes. The fact that the ECM is not reporting any problems is what points toward an ECM. A failed IPR could also cause this.
