I bought these mounts for my 302 I am installing in a 56. Previous posts have said that they mount on the mustang II cross member. I was looking at them closer and the tube portion at the end of the mount has a cant to it so if you mount them one way the engine will be sloping toward the rear and the other way will tilt the engine forward. The technician at the company said the engine mounts on the block would compensate for it but they are level on the engine. Is this where you get the 3 degree down slope in the back? If I mount the carb flange level it seems the mounts will be crooked on the crossmember. Anyone use these?

 

I mounted an EFI 302 in my truck with MII IFS.


I mocked up the engine and transmission with the cab on, to get orientation. I know I offset the engine to the passenger side ( roughly 1 3/4"?)


I can't remember if my mounts had to be angled, as I build my own. My steering arm passes through my driver side mount, to eliminate acute angles in the steering U-joints.


Hope this helps.

 

Why did you have to offset to one side

 

mount the engine with the carb pad level front to back and side to side, this will put the engine around 3 degrees angled down. You can measure this angle at the crank balancer or transmission tail shaft.
Some have to offset the engine to the passenger side for exhaust or steering clearance, depends on the installation.

 

I just saw that the intake carb flange is angled also so with that level the engine will be angled rearward. I have the frame up on jack stands leveled also. I have not set the new spring perches on the rear end. Do I leave it on the stands and set the spring perches so the rear end is parallel to the tranny output or should I get the wheels on and get the weight on wheels. I guess it wouldn't matter because the rear end angle will change relative when the front end drops down

 

Rear axle does not have to be in place to install the engine and trans, but the frame should be at the desired rake when setting up the engine. If you want the truck level when complete then level the frame and then set up the engine.
If you want the truck raked with the back higher than the front then set the frame at the desired angle and then set up the engine.
When finishing the car the rear axle pinion should be set 3 degrees up with full weight on the car at the desired ride angle (assuming engine is 3 degrees down).
If you run leaf springs welding the axle to the rear perches is the last thing I do after the truck is fully complete and sitting on its wheels. I put it on dollies so I can get under the truck, set the angle, tack the pads, and then remove the axle for full welding.
If you are running a 4 link you just have to adjust the arms.
All of this assumes you are working on a level floor, if not you have to take that into account with your angle measurements.

 

That is where the confusion is. I'm not sure what the final ride height will be until I get the engine and transmission in. So I guess I need to put the wheels on set the engin in and then adjust it

 

So why does everybody say to get the frame level and then the carb flange level if all that really matters is the engine and rear end are parallel. After I get this done the engine will probably never set at 3° ever again because the vehicle will always be on a slope everywhere it goes.does the proportion between the frame and engine matter

 

ride height doesn't matter, frame angle does. If you want the car to be level when you are done set it up with the frame level to a level floor.
Carb likes to be level for the fuel in the float bowls, and generally with the carb pad level the engine is at the correct angle for oil drainback, trans pan and oil pan bases will be level, mechanical fan will be parallel to the radiator, etc..of course the engine will run if it isn't perfect but it is a good place to start.
I run fuel injection on my builds so I have run up to 5 degrees due to clearances of front accessories, and the pinion was set up to match, which is important for a vibration free driveshaft.
I figure if the factory wanted their engine set up a certain way I go with their engineering dollars rather than try and reinvent the wheel.

 

To allow for stock exhaust and steering clearance on drivers side.

With repsect to leveling your frame, I'm no expert but before I installed my engine mounts I had my frame sitting on the front and rear wheels. I didn't tack my rear axle perches until I had my engine mounted, which should be pretty close to final ride height of the front end? The front ride height drops due to the MII crossmember, at least on mine by 3-4 " so I mounted the Explorer rear axle on top of my rear leaf springs. If I had more expertise, I should have come up with shim/spacer to raise the frame on the IFS crossmemeber install but that may have affected the geometry.




Hope this is of some help to you.

 

When the mustang ii is installed the frame needs to be at correct rake then, The engine doesnt have to be installed to get ride height. A mustang ii is setup correct when the lower control arms are level with ground.So if you know what size tires you want you can set front end to that height. A 56 has plenty of room to keep engine centered in frame.

 

Install with the high side towards the front of the truck.