Probably the only thing wrong with the transmission was some burned out clutches. A rebuild kit, and it would probably have been back in business. The woman probably didn't want to pay the money or couldn't afford to pay the shop to rebuild it.

 

2X. And/or an internal solenoid or 2. I think it would be worth calling that shop and offering them some stupid low money for the tranny.

 

'98 4R70W that will be going in my truck ....mmmm, delicious.

 

Well, there are 11 Explorers between 97 and '02 in my local PnP...and March 17th starts the 4 day 40% off sale.
If I wanted to do this, what, besides the trans itself, would I need to pull to make it all work properly?

 

I understand that I need a dizzy with a steel gear for the roller engine. Which makes me believe that the pickup that is in there now has a steel gear.
I have the dizzy from the 302 that didn't work out, being crap and all.

Could I simply switch the steel gear from the current pick up that is in the 98 302, to the dizzy from the, I believe, 83 302, and then use that dizzy?

I do see a difference in shaft length below the gear...I will leave thoughts on that up to the experts.

Perhaps someone more knowledgeable about these dizzys can do something with those numbers.

 

D7TE12127EA....
1977 F100...302...M/T.
1978 F100...302...M/T...with high altitude carb.
1978 F150...302...A/T...with high altitude carb.


Interesting that the bottom of the Synchronizer's shaft that turns the oil pump is longer. A 70's 302 takes oil pump driveshaft part number D8AZ6A618A. Which is the same part number for a 1998 Explorer 302 (5.0L). Block area different right there? I dunno.
Both Points style and Duraspark Dizzy's drive gear has an I.D of .467". You'd have to mic that Synchronizer's shaft to see if it's gear will work on a Dizzy.

 

There are 4R70Ws for 4.6L/5.4L engines and there are 4R70Ws for 'Windsor' block pattern engines --3.8L, 4.2L and 5.0L Ford vehicles. These transmissions are electronically shifted and will require a stand-alone shift controller (my transmission isn't installed yet but, I have a shift controller from U.S. Shift.com --formerly Baumann Optishift).

'98-up 4Rs are better than '93-'97 versions. If there are '98-'01 5.0L Explorers in your local wrecking yard, these would be the best sources to get the transmission from.

Information on my (perpetually slow transmission project) 4R70W and key identifiers to look for when sourcing one of these transmissions.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15464208

 

Thanks Jeff...going to take both to a machine shop, have them measured and swapped if compatiable....they are much better set up for it than I am.


Steve, this weekend a trans at the PnP, with the discount weekend, will cost $86. Well worth looking into. Anything besides the trans I will need from the donor truck? I have not had a chance to look at your trans build yet, if the info I would need is in there, I will find it tonight.

I love this site, not only are the people friendly and helpful, but almost anything a person could think of doing to these trucks had already been tried and written up.

I have been keeping a pic/video log of my truck....someday I will post and do a write up on what I have done.

 

Right now there should be an electronic speed sensor stuck in the speedo cable hole in a JY's tranny extension housing. I'm pretty sure your existing speedo cable will poke right in there. The speedo drive gear inside may be a different number of teeth though. Don't forget the block to bell spacer plate, torque converter, flex plate, driveshaft (may need it for the yoke, etc. Depending on the mileage on the tranny you buy I would at least change the fluid and filter. Right now Ford shows THEIR Mercon V as fitting a 98 Explorer 4R70W. I don't remember when the original Mercon V first hit the scene. Back then Ford had trannys that took Dexron with Mercon and also some that took the original Mercon V. Ford peached DO NOT mix the two. So if the tranny took Dexron with Mercon then that's what we had to sell. Putting the original Mercon V in that tranny would screw it up. Since then Ford changed the formula so the second Gen Mercon V will work for both. What the aftermarket's fluid is like I dunno. I would use the current 2nd Gen Genuine Ford Motorcraft fluid if it were me.
Fluid....XT-5-QMC.
Filter....F6AZ7A098A
Gasket..F2VY7A191A.
Front pump to T/C seal....F2VY7A248A.
Rear extension housing seal...F6UZ7052A.
Maybe a reman T/C if high mileage.

 

This one starts to get up there a bit in price..maybe later on down the road.

 

Well, the last few of my parts and pieces arrived for the engine today, so I have yet another question.

One of the many things I am replacing on this engine is the rear main seal.

My current question is, would it be an ok or proper procedure to remove the #5 bearing cap to have enough clearance to remove and reinstall the new RMS, then reinstall the #5 and then torque it to spec?

If that is a no-no, then how would/should I proceed on replacing the RMS?

 

I have never done one of the one piece rear main seals. But it is my understanding they pop right out from the rear. Once you take off the flex plate it should be right there.

 

you are right Jeff, flexplate off and it is right there....I would assume compressed at least a bit by #5 bearing cap.

My question was, thinking the seal is compressed a bit by the cap, would it be ok to loosen off #5 bearing cap to get the new one piece seal in, the extra tiny bit of "looseness" from #5 being a bit loose, allowing the seal to be put in avoiding any tearing or other damage to the one piece seal, then just re-torque the #5 bearing cap to 60 - 70 ft-lbs?

 

I don't think that would be necessary. I sell rear main seals to tranny shops all the time. I doubt they mess with re-torqueing the cap. I would drill 4 holes in the old seal and use a screw tip style slide hammer to evenly pop the old seal out. Put a thin coat of RTV around the outer perimeter of the new seal to help seal it and to help it slide in there. And some synthetic or semi-synthetic oil on it's I.D. when you install it so it doesn't wear prematurally on 1st start up. Install it evenly. I know there are special installer tools to do this. I don't know if HF has one. Or maybe fab one starting with sewer PVC?

 

Thanks Jeff, I will attempt to proceed accordingly