ID'ing Torque Converter
Generally speaking, larger diameter and "fatter" converters usually have a lower stall speed. Example is a 12 or 13 inch diameter unit will usually have a stall rating of anywhere from 1600 to 2200 rpm. 10" converters are usually 2200 - 3200 rpm stall, then you've got smaller and usually higher rated stall speed units.
Bear something else in mind - different engines will net different stall speeds from the same converter due to variances in power/torque output of the engine.
For towing and better mileage, a lower stall speed and large diameter is better, but then the internal design and construction of the converter also comes into play, such as the shape and angle of the vanes, etc. These are the tweaks that make a good converter better.
Also, the converter is designed to not only bolt onto the flexplate, but the front snout of the converter must be the right size for the type of engine/crankshaft. Just because the tranny will bolt up does not mean it's the right converter. If you look at converters, you'll see that they often say something like "for 351m/400m with 1.375" pilot" or similar. The front snout of the converter comes into contact with the crank, which has a pilot hole in the end it of for the converter snout to fit into. It slides back and forth a bit as engine load changes. That's why it's called a flexplate - it allows the converter to move slightly front to back. What you don't want is for the converter snout to be too large and bang into the back of the crank. When I install a converter I usually put a bit of moly grease on that snout just to help things out a bit.
Unfortunately, with an unknown converter you take the risk of not being happy with the final results which will only really be known after you hook up to that trailer. That's your call - whether to try it out or simply buy a converter of known origin. Hopefully, the tranny shop may be able to give you some good info on it.







