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1 wire alternator conversion
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 49
From: Great American SouthWest
I installed the new alternator and pulled the wire harness and voltage regulator. I HAVE NO ELECTRICS. It would seem the how to forum is a little misleading in that all that wiring can go away. I have a 1 wire setup...its properly grounded and the power goes to the hot side of the battery.
wiring harness thet I removed includes 2 plugs into the harness near the ignition relay, everything from the old alternator, and everything to the voltage regulator. I didnt cut any wires or cut into the harness yet.. Im not using a 3g exactly...its a 1 wire GM setup. Ideas?
wiring harness thet I removed includes 2 plugs into the harness near the ignition relay, everything from the old alternator, and everything to the voltage regulator. I didnt cut any wires or cut into the harness yet.. Im not using a 3g exactly...its a 1 wire GM setup. Ideas?
i don't think the forums suggest removing a lot of wiring. Again, the diagrams I've seen only lose one wire and the external regulator
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 10
I run a similar 100A one wire. I left the stock wiring. Just tape off the connectors thoroughly and wire tie it together and out of the way worked for me.
It would not hurt to re-install the original main charge wire to the new alternator - in addition to your new charge wire - but should not be necessary.
I have my mighty 40 amp OE alternator behind the seat and voltage regulator still in place just in case. I can un-wrap the original wires and re-install the OE in an emergency.
You will need a volt meter on a switched ignition circuit to monitor charge system condition with a one wire.
It would not hurt to re-install the original main charge wire to the new alternator - in addition to your new charge wire - but should not be necessary.
I have my mighty 40 amp OE alternator behind the seat and voltage regulator still in place just in case. I can un-wrap the original wires and re-install the OE in an emergency.
You will need a volt meter on a switched ignition circuit to monitor charge system condition with a one wire.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 712
Likes: 1
From: Mesa, AZ
PapaBearYuma and BlueAndWhite - thanks for the replies.
On the new alternator I have a power lead going straight to the battery from the hot post, and I'm grounded to the block at the same place the negative battery cable is grounded.
So this should work with the wiring harness plugged back in and with the ends from the old alternator taped up and not connected to anything?
Here's what I pulled out. There are 3 plugs into wires coming off the starter relay....that's all that would be left to plug in.....well, that, and my horn.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 712
Likes: 1
From: Mesa, AZ
By the way, here's the thread in the forum stickies that got me confused on being able to pull this whole harness out:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...g-upgrade.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...g-upgrade.html
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 712
Likes: 1
From: Mesa, AZ
got it figured out. Put the wiring harness back in, tied up all the stuff that went to the alternator, and she's purring. 14.65 volts.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 49
From: Great American SouthWest
congratulations on getting it going! I'm still on-the-fence on the upgrade. I don't need it, and the current alternator works fine
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 401
Likes: 3
From: Rockville, IN Temporarily
I didn't need it either but the cost was just to good to pass up. The nice thing is when driving at night and sitting at a very long stop light the headlights never dim at idle. Everything is much brighter. I did notice one thing right away. My idle speed increased by about 150 rpm with the 130 amp alt. That could be due to the wiring alone as I had changed out both the original style alternator and regulator with OEM style replacements and never noticed a change in idle speed.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 712
Likes: 1
From: Mesa, AZ
well for less than what a good new battery costs it was hard not to do it. My truck is a wheeler and i will likely add loghts and I also run an ARB fridge. With the wiring harnes confusion I made it harder than it was.
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