1 wire alternator conversion
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Mesa, AZ
1 wire alternator conversion
Am sure it's covered here, but am going to tear into the swap this weekend. I have a new wire to run to the battery from the new alternator. What do you do with the existing wiring going to the existing alternator, and which of those wires goes to the ammeter guage?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2009
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On my install, I removed the existing harness for the stock alternator. The one wire was run to the battery with a fuse in between. One thing that I did to make connections easier was to use a battery that had dual post connections. The ones on top and the sides. This made connecting easier and straight forward, IMO. As for the ammeter, someone else will have to chime in as I removed that and ran a voltmeter.
My alternator is 100A and I need to wait about 5 seconds on start-up before the voltmeter reads 14.5V. This is when the belt fully grabs. If you run any higher amperage, you may need to use a two pulley set-up.
My alternator is 100A and I need to wait about 5 seconds on start-up before the voltmeter reads 14.5V. This is when the belt fully grabs. If you run any higher amperage, you may need to use a two pulley set-up.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Mesa, AZ
the one I have is a 100A unit.
I'll try to follow that wire harness back. Any issues with leaving it tied up someplace so I can keep my old OEM unit as a spare?
Is there anything else I can get rid of with the conversion?
I'll try to follow that wire harness back. Any issues with leaving it tied up someplace so I can keep my old OEM unit as a spare?
Is there anything else I can get rid of with the conversion?
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Mesa, AZ
Those threads are specific to swaps using 3g Taurus and similar alternators. Isn't that a bit different?
Would appear I can pull the full harness and the voltage regulator with this swap though. I got a ammeter guage that's been reworked to be a voltage guage that I assume I just need to tie into a wire that's hot when the truck is running, and that should be it. Seems almost too easy.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2016
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From: Tennessee
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Elder User
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From: Mesa, AZ
Summit racing markets it as a 3g alternator and described it as a ford case with GM guts, and a 1 wire setup.
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Elder User
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From: Mesa, AZ
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2016
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From: Tennessee
OK got it, so yes you can completely remove the old harness and simply add a new wire with fuse, as you did. You can set the old harness aside or place under the seat in case of emergency. As far as the voltmeter, any ACC source wire will work.
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Elder User
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From: Mesa, AZ
Much appreciated!
Cargo Master
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I stole this pic from another site-I make no ownership claims or claims of correctness!!!
Fleet Mechanic
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If you already have the 1 wire alternator installed, you are good to go. The 3G is short for 3 groove pulley. This was the style alternator to grab and then convert it to the pulleys needed for your engine.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Mesa, AZ
I installed the new alternator and pulled the wire harness and voltage regulator. I HAVE NO ELECTRICS. It would seem the how to forum is a little misleading in that all that wiring can go away. I have a 1 wire setup...its properly grounded and the power goes to the hot side of the battery.
wiring harness thet I removed includes 2 plugs into the harness near the ignition relay, everything from the old alternator, and everything to the voltage regulator. I didnt cut any wires or cut into the harness yet.. Im not using a 3g exactly...its a 1 wire GM setup. Ideas?
wiring harness thet I removed includes 2 plugs into the harness near the ignition relay, everything from the old alternator, and everything to the voltage regulator. I didnt cut any wires or cut into the harness yet.. Im not using a 3g exactly...its a 1 wire GM setup. Ideas?