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Front End running gear

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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 10:02 PM
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Front End running gear

Good evening.

I have been experiencing an issue with the front end of my truck. This has been going on for about a month but getting worse lately.

While driving between 40-65 mph's there is a humming FEELING. Not really a vibration at all. But I can feel this in the floor boards under my feet. It is really loud at 55-65 mph.

I looked under the front end and i didn't see anything leaking or falling apart.

The noise is now getting to the point that it is unbearable to listen to when doing 60-65 mph on the highway.

Any thoughts or advice as where to start looking? I am going to take the front wheels off this weekend to see if there is anything that alerts me.

Thanks - Preston

Here are some pics:

 
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 10:34 PM
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From: Bozeman MT
Assuming you are not driving with transfer case in 4H.

Jack up the front axle so wheels are suspended, rotate the tire/wheel to hear the wheel hub, chunking sound could be the hub bearing going south.

Dragging noise could be caliper dragging which would manifest itself as a whoosh sound at speed and would generate heat on brake rotor, first suspect would be caliper pins and the the brake hose delaminating.

Put a 2x4 under the wheel and lift it up, movement is axle to spindle ball joints thought that would not produce a humming noise while driving unless it was so bad that the alignment was way off and then you would see chafe on tire tread.

Next, pull the engagement Hubs and look for self destruction.

Next, front differential could be low or missing gear Oil but engagement hub or 4H from transfer case would have to be turning the differential.

Last, break down the wheel hub and possibly the large rear seal behind the wheel hub has failed and is making noise, very remote but possible.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Copper.Farm
Assuming you are not driving with transfer case in 4H.

Jack up the front axle so wheels are suspended, rotate the tire/wheel to hear the wheel hub, chunking sound could be the hub bearing going south.

Dragging noise could be caliper dragging which would manifest itself as a whoosh sound at speed and would generate heat on brake rotor, first suspect would be caliper pins and the the brake hose delaminating.

Put a 2x4 under the wheel and lift it up, movement is axle to spindle ball joints thought that would not produce a humming noise while driving unless it was so bad that the alignment was way off and then you would see chafe on tire tread.

Next, pull the engagement Hubs and look for self destruction.

Next, front differential could be low or missing gear Oil but engagement hub or 4H from transfer case would have to be turning the differential.
I will try these out.

The hubs are unlocked (auto), and only driving in 2wd.

Thanks for the tips.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 10:17 AM
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One other thing.

When I turn to the left when there is a bend in the road, the noise goes completely away until I straighten back out. But not so when I turn right when there is a bend in the road. All of this occurs when driving between 40-70 mph.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 10:31 AM
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From: Bozeman MT
Originally Posted by silverbullet6oh
One other thing.

When I turn to the left when there is a bend in the road, the noise goes completely away until I straighten back out. But not so when I turn right when there is a bend in the road. All of this occurs when driving between 40-70 mph.
That is a wheel hub complaining about nearing end of life. Make sure you buy a replacement with the correct wheel studs (course thread). I've had good luck with Timken which is available with Prime shipping.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Copper.Farm
That is a wheel hub complaining about nearing end of life. Make sure you buy a replacement with the correct wheel studs (course thread). I've had good luck with Timken which is available with Prime shipping.
Thanks Copper. Can you clarify on the "correct wheel studs" ?

Also, how do I know which side it is or do I have to pull both of them in the front to identify that?

I was looking at the Timken, I'm glad you said something about them . They seem to be middle of road for price. I don't want cheap or expensive.

Thanks - Preston
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 11:07 AM
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From: Bozeman MT
Originally Posted by silverbullet6oh
Thanks Copper. Can you clarify on the "correct wheel studs" ?

Also, how do I know which side it is or do I have to pull both of them in the front to identify that?

I was looking at the Timken, I'm glad you said something about them . They seem to be middle of road for price. I don't want cheap or expensive.

Thanks - Preston
The wheel Hubs come with coarse threads(yours) or fine threads(older) - I'll look for part numbers. Most likely it is the drivers side, for safety you need to check both sides.

Research these:

Sorry, wrong part.
Also research the seals and the studs to mount the hub to the spindle, Ford is really proud of those studs.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Copper.Farm
The wheel Hubs come with coarse threads(yours) or fine threads(older) - I'll look for part numbers. Most likely it is the drivers side, for safety you need to check both sides.

Research these:

Sorry, wrong part.
Also research the seals and the studs to mount the hub to the spindle, Ford is really proud of those studs.
Well, I did go to Rock Auto to look for the part number and found these:

More Information for TIMKEN SP940200
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by silverbullet6oh
.................................

Also, how do I know which side it is or do I have to pull both of them in the front to identify that?

.................................................. .....

Thanks - Preston

Probably wouldn't hurt to replace both of them in the front if I have the monies.

Edit: I watch some vids on how to check and what to listen for. Diagnosis should be easy
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 11:41 AM
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If one is giving you problems, then I would replace both. I just bought a pair off Amazon for $186 each including shipping. It wasn't prime, but they did get here in less than a week.

As far are your comment, "I don't want cheap or expensive" keep in mind that you tend to get what you pay for. That being said, I went with Timken or Spicer for all my bearings and seals. I have part numbers for my 2000 truck if you're interested. Mine also took coarse threads.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by andym
If one is giving you problems, then I would replace both. I just bought a pair off Amazon for $186 each including shipping. It wasn't prime, but they did get here in less than a week.

As far are your comment, "I don't want cheap or expensive" keep in mind that you tend to get what you pay for. That being said, I went with Timken or Spicer for all my bearings and seals. I have part numbers for my 2000 truck if you're interested. Mine also took coarse threads.
That would be nice.

Thanks - Preston
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 01:12 PM
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Again this is all for a 2000 truck. They are almost certainly going to be different for a 2006.

Bearings: Timken 515020
Hub/axle seal (the two-piece vacuum seal): Spicer 50491 or Timken 710493
Dust seals: Timken 710413
Stub shaft: Spicer 2002692
U-joint: SPL55-3X (non-greasable; -4X is greasable).
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 01:41 PM
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X2 on the front wheel hub. Sounds just like what my passenger side did. How many miles on it? Not that that matters as my passenger side hub went at 65K! Good advice to do both. Buy USA, FoMoCo, or Canadian Bearings... more good advice. You might get more than 60K out of them ???? Inspect everything. Look at the BJs, track bar bushings, steering linkage etc...Might just want to do the outer U-joints while its apart. Spicer is the only Ujoint I'll ever use. With their recommended Spicer grease of course.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 06:08 PM
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Its the passenger side. Turned the wheel and there is resistants and noise from that side. Driver's side is smooth.

Ordering up the Timken
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by droldsmorland
X2 on the front wheel hub. Sounds just like what my passenger side did. How many miles on it? Not that that matters as my passenger side hub went at 65K! Good advice to do both. Buy USA, FoMoCo, or Canadian Bearings... more good advice. You might get more than 60K out of them ???? Inspect everything. Look at the BJs, track bar bushings, steering linkage etc...Might just want to do the outer U-joints while its apart. Spicer is the only Ujoint I'll ever use. With their recommended Spicer grease of course.

I have 148k on the truck.

I dont know if the hubs have every been changed.
 
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