When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
...good set of impact sockets and a strong impact wrench.
...start spaying all nuts and bolts at least once per day until you do the install...
...remove the bumper. You will have to remove the support for the trans cooler or whatever cooler it supports to access/remove the bolts in the front of the spring...
...A ratchet strap is a huge help to pull the front axle fore or aft when attempting to align it with the index hole whether you are working alone or with a helper.
...Chock the rear tires and back into the chocks thus pre-loading them and set the emergency brake. If you can, use two sets of jack stands as the article states...
Originally Posted by AllaboutMPG
...used ratchet straps to help move axle around for alignment...
...using a map torch to heat a couple of the larger bolts...
For the love of Gawd... this is exactly the kind of stuff I detest doing - big iron. I'm the guy with a pocket protector and a multimeter, not Thor's hammer.
You can do this in about four hours if you are handy. Three hours if you also have a good set of impact sockets and a strong impact wrench.
Either way, you will be thankful if you start spaying all nuts and bolts at least once per day until you do the install. Kroil, Sili-Kroil, or spearmint oil and transmission fluid works wonders.
On this e99 it wasn't necessary to remove the bumper. You will have to remove the support for the trans cooler or whatever cooler it supports to access/remove the bolts in the front of the spring. I put the bolts in the reverse way so I can skip this step just in case I ever have to do this again
A ratchet strap is a huge help to pull the front axle fore or aft when attempting to align it with the index hole whether you are working alone or with a helper.
Chock the rear tires and back into the chocks thus pre-loading them and set the emergency brake. If you can, use two sets of jack stands as the article states.
I don't think this rates a 7 out of 10...more like a 3 or 4.
Thanks for all the replies. I used to do mechanic (engine) work for many years so I think I can do this as well. I have 1 set of of 3 ton jack stands, would that be adequate enough or should i buy an extra set of 4 tons so I can use both sets? I have also been using PB blaster for the past few days and will continue till my parts come in on Monday. That should help taking things apart.
Thanks for all the replies. I used to do mechanic (engine) work for many years so I think I can do this as well. I have 1 set of of 3 ton jack stands, would that be adequate enough or should i buy an extra set of 4 tons so I can use both sets? I have also been using PB blaster for the past few days and will continue till my parts come in on Monday. That should help taking things apart.
When I bought my truck, I picked up another set of Jack stands. Since then I have used them both many times, especially when replacing the rear leaf springs and installing the air bags.
It is nice to have frame supported by one set and axle byou the other instead of being held by the suspension you are working on/around.
When I bought my truck, I picked up another set of Jack stands. Since then I have used them both many times, especially when replacing the rear leaf springs and installing the air bags.
It is nice to have frame supported by one set and axle byou the other instead of being held by the suspension you are working on/around.
What ton jack stands would be recommended to hold up the front end. I see people using 3 - 6 ton jack stands. I just want to make sure it's safe working around it.
What ton jack stands would be recommended to hold up the front end. I see people using 3 - 6 ton jack stands. I just want to make sure it's safe working around it.
The truck by itself only weighs 7500lbs...not quite 4 tons. It's not like you're going to balance the entire weight of the truck on one stand.
What ton jack stands would be recommended to hold up the front end. I see people using 3 - 6 ton jack stands. I just want to make sure it's safe working around it.
I have 2 sets of 3 ton Jack's, one has the slide through pin and the other is a ratchet locking lever type. I prefer to use the lever on the axle as the is more versatility.
I use 2x12's under the frame jacks laid flat and stacked in order to get them tall enough.
I have 1 set of of 3 ton jack stands, would that be adequate enough or should i buy an extra set of 4 tons so I can use both sets?
If you check out the tech folder I told you about, one of the links covers helpful tips, hints, and tricks to help you get this done. Some of the info is Excursion exclusive (like where they refer to the rear AC lines, etc) but an extra floor jack is really handy.
Before starting a new thread, i'll give it a shot here first. I am in the process of replacing my leaf springs. I am more concerned with ride quality rather than capacity. I want a spring pack that will deliver the softest ride possible.
So my question is: Would the 43-812 #2030 lbs capacity deliver a better ride than the X codes #2630 lbs capacity. ?????
There is also the 43-814 rated at #2230 lbs capacity.
Is anyone running the lower capacity U-codes that can give an opinion on ride quality compared to the stockers ?
If you're turning your truck into a car, the 2030 capacity will just carry the nose and you. If you put anything in the bed or carry your capacity of passengers, you may want to look at that 2230 capacity at a minimum.
These trucks are freaking heavy, and leaf springs suck for ride.
Before starting a new thread, i'll give it a shot here first. I am in the process of replacing my leaf springs. I am more concerned with ride quality rather than capacity. I want a spring pack that will deliver the softest ride possible.
So my question is: Would the 43-812 #2030 lbs capacity deliver a better ride than the X codes #2630 lbs capacity. ?????
There is also the 43-814 rated at #2230 lbs capacity.
Is anyone running the lower capacity U-codes that can give an opinion on ride quality compared to the stockers ?
Are the X codes stiffer than the OEM springs. ??
thanks
IIRC, I think the 43-814 are referred to as "W" codes. If so, they are really difficult to find and are almost twice as expensive as the V or X codes unless something has changed.
I have no experience with U codes. I would not consider having a spring that is lighter than a V code on these trucks due to the fact that they would be mostly compressed a majority of the time.
In my experience, NEW X codes ride significantly better than worn out factory V codes. X codes are firm but not harsh and handling will improve. Depending upon what came on your truck they will be stiffer but not by much. Maybe consider having a custom set built.
I went with the 43-818 springs and I'm tickled silly with them. Aftermarket claims that they're equal to the X codes but they are not. They are rated for #2630 and I am happy with them. It is a truck and I can still drink my coffee without sloshing it all over the cab. But then I removed a lift kit with an 11 spring stack up front and coming from that I feel like I'm driving a Cadillac. ATS Springs is a sponsor here and have been used by quite a few of us. Give them a call, they know springs and can dial you in on what you're looking to do. Leaf Springs and Suspension Parts by Auto and Truck Springs
Thanks guys... i am going to go with the X springs. I am going to look for a retailer in the Los Angeles area where i can pick them up ASAP and not have to wait for a set from the east coast.
That puppy didn't 'just' snap, I see some rust there, which indicates that it's been broken for a while. There is a manufacturer's sticker on your driver's side door jam and down near the bottom are spring codes. Expect to find a 'V' or maybe an 'X' and an 'A', with 'A' being the rear springs. Do you want to go genuine Ford or do you want aftermarket? There is a 43-818 that they claim is a Ford 'X' but it's not really...but it's close. I used those and am happy with them.
I consider them "V+" codes as they carry a little bit more than the OEM V-code springs are. I am very happy with my ATS springs.
Originally Posted by AllaboutMPG
I've never done any heavy suspension work and I did this in my driveway in about 5 hours. used ratchet straps to help move axle around for alignment. Fortunately not much rust in the south so I don't remember any hardware issues other than using a map torch to heat a couple of the larger bolts. Very do-able
I had to remove the track bar to get things to line up. This is my second set of springs I've installed up front since I've bought my truck. Original springs lasted 6 years until an aux spring broke. I bought another set of OEM and they also lasted 6 years. The ratchet straps saved me time and knuckles (I didn't consider using them the first time) the second time around.
Originally Posted by choskins
What ton jack stands would be recommended to hold up the front end. I see people using 3 - 6 ton jack stands. I just want to make sure it's safe working around it.
My front end (no driver) weighs 4000lbs. I use 3-ton jackstands but IMO I wouldn't go below 2 tons in case the other one fails. Just my .02.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.