One weak 460

What didn't you understand about ''leave it as it is'' to do the timing curve ? (Changing springs etc in that OE dizzy is a ball ache!)
Ok, the timing curve indicates a problem at 1,500rpm (which could be causing your acceleration bog), and also indicates that the timing is advancing too slowly.
It's not a bad linear curve, but can be improved.
Lighter springs will make it advance quicker, I.E. Higher advance at each 500rpm intervals.
BUT, I think that the dizzy is tired. I don't know exactly what would make it retard so may degrees at 1500rpms.

The good news is that the timing curve has given you useful feedback.
The bad news is that you went and adjusted the carb at the same time as adjusting the dizzy. Now you don't know exactly what caused the truck to run worse today.
Focus on one thing at a time, and one thing only !!!
Today, in effect, you retarded your timing by 10 degrees by swapping the 15L's to 10L's, and that is probably the power loss you felt.
That said, all of the timing numbers mentioned since the start of this thread are in the ball park, and shouldn't be causing you the crap performance.
18 degrees of vacuum. Was the needle steady or fluctuating ?
Is the engine smooth at idle ?
I don't know the exact detail, but here's an idea :
If the OE dizzy came with points, the points would take 9v when running, and 12v at start up.
An OE resistor wire would be installed to reduce the 12v to 9v when running.
Let's say that wire has 3 ohms resistance. (Purely for illustration)
If the Master Pro Brain replaces the points, what is the minimum ohms for it ?
Let's say it is 2 ohms.
Having a 3 ohm wire will rob the engine of power.
I put an ignitor in my OE dizzy a few years ago, and fitted an MSD blaster coil.
The coil rating is 0.7 ohms and the ignitor stated a minimum of 1.5 ohms.
I fitted an 0.8ohm ballast resistor, with normal wire, and it ran 100%.
But I also fitted a 1.5ohm ballast resistor for pure curiosity. Turd !!
If you understand what I'm getting at, it's a 5 minute job to check it out.
LOL, I couldn't get the OE dizzy to give me a 100% curve, so I gave it away and got a Pertronix dizzy. 'nuf said.

Laterz

When we had it apart, the dizzy looked okay internally. No excessive movement in the shaft both up and down and side to side. Cleaned everything out, lubed it all back up, all good. Advance still only kicks in at 1500rpms.
Bog at WOT is a bit better. Because I got plenty of power in the primaries, I'll increase the jet size in the secondaries and update back.
Also. 9v running at the coil. Looks good to me. The original dizzy and ignition setup is duraspark. The motor is running decently at idle, just a slight shimmy from time to time. Vacuum gauge is now dead on at 18" of vacuum. No needle movements.
To be clear, my set up is as following:
15L slot
8* initial timing
vacuum advance turned all the way in
1405 stock tune with .101 secondaries
EDIT. Just got home from a drive. Richening the secondaries helped a little. Also found out my rear end ratio is in fact a......3.25!!! Awesome! Not. Guess that explains why she's kinda doggy eh?
I will adjust the spring tabs in the dizzy to try to get the timing in sooner, but I think she's likely as good as she's gonna get...
Got her running about as good as I think she's gonna get. To everyone following, here's the setup, the low down, and the end result. Starting from the top to bottom...
-Edelbrock 1406 carb jetted and rodded to 1405 specs with .101 secondaries. Fuel pressure @ 5.5psi running.
-Stock intake
-Stock dizzy, both yellow springs installed from my Crane kit, Crane vac. Advance turned all in. 15L slot.
-8* initial timing
-38* total timing
-Timing chain in straight up
-Stock everything else
-3.25 limited slip 9" rear end
-235/75r15 tires
-Holds 18" vacuum idling
-Vac. Advance on manifold vacuum.
Advance now appears to come in around 1000 after benning my spring tabs IN. PO bent them out and I left them that way until now. Springs are fully relaxed and everything is returning back to where it should be.
Won't chirp the tires. Won't light em off a red light either. However, mash the gas and the engine takes off and now pulls the truck with it. May tune secondaries a tiny bit, but for now, gonna drive as is and watch mileage unless anyone here sees something else I should look at.
May or may not look into 4.10s for the back end...would love to feel the torque and burn rubber but don't wanna murder my mileage any more than I already am haha. On her test drive tonight on the highway she burned about an 1/8 tank doing 70 for about 30ish miles. Not too bad. I know my 1411 returned excellent mileage on the highway compared to the 1406 the last time I made a long highway excursion, so we shall see.
Compression test will be soon. Also hope to take a dye grider to the heads this summer to remove the exhaust bump. Still has a slight shimmy at idle sometimes, but not too worried about it....right now.
Well there ya go everyone. First off thanks for the help. This has been hell. Second off, anybody see anything else I should change? Tweak? Tune? I'm interested to hear everyone's thoughts.
Add another 10 degrees or so from the vacuum advance.
Do a compression test to see if you actually have a healthy engine or not.
Adjust carb on WBO2.
When i am not using it, it goes back in the box and a plug goes in the exhaust with antisiezed threads.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I have had mine for 3 years and it always works a charm. If anything it let me understand a lot more about carburettors by simply being able to see what was happening as it happened.
- boingk
Finally got her out for a decent highway drive. It was lackluster to say the least. Going up hills was just plain bad. It felt like she was breathing through a coffee straw. Flat highway was fine, but my foot was way into the accelerator to keep her at 65mph. This has always been an issue whenever I've run a 600cfm carb on this truck. Didn't ping though! In town driving is okay for what it's worth.
My 750cfm 1411 is waiting to be tossed back on as soon as the weather warms up again this weekend. I will leave it in stock calibration and take her for the same drive again. I'll report back with info after!
PCV system would appear to be in working order as well. I have the PCV valve hooked into the the rear port on the carb, and the vent from the valve cover hooked up to my air cleaner. If I pull the PCV valve out of the valve cover while the engone is running, I immediately get a very large vacuum leak till I plug it back in or cover the valve with my finger.
Your work should have been heaven since you got the truck running. LOL
Just check that the pcv valve actually works, and if there's a filter (inside the oil filler ?) on the air filter side, that it's clean.
At least you can tick the ignition off your check list coz it's ''good enough'' and unlikely to be causing the major power loss.
I hope the lack of pinging made you a tiny bit happy.
Are the carb butterflies opening fully, and is there nice big squirts of gas from the pump ?
I'm not familiar with the 'ohm' ratings on your coil etc, but I'd still get a second (or more) opinion. (Too much resistance in that circuit kills power.)
By the way, very nice truck.
Your work should have been heaven since you got the truck running. LOL
Just check that the pcv valve actually works, and if there's a filter (inside the oil filler ?) on the air filter side, that it's clean.
At least you can tick the ignition off your check list coz it's ''good enough'' and unlikely to be causing the major power loss.
I hope the lack of pinging made you a tiny bit happy.
Are the carb butterflies opening fully, and is there nice big squirts of gas from the pump ?
I'm not familiar with the 'ohm' ratings on your coil etc, but I'd still get a second (or more) opinion. (Too much resistance in that circuit kills power.)
By the way, very nice truck.
I need to get one of those little filters for inside the air cleaner for the PCV. Currently there isn't even one in there. Removed the old one a lob while bck because it looked like charcoal.
Yes the butterflies are coming open fully. We verified this as we installed the carb. The pump shots are nice and even and strong too.
I don't know why, but this motor has never really liked the 1406. Feels happier in town but I've always had issues with it out on the highway. Going off plug readings, it was lean on the 1406 calibration, so I changed it to the 1405 calibration to compensate. This made highway driving a tad better, but I still find my foot in it a lot just to keep up with traffic. The 1411 has never had this issue. I figure that since it's free, may as well drop it on and see how she does!








