I run the 1411 as it came from the factory. I have jet assortment and tried several combinations of rods and jets and found the original 110 primaries 107 secondaries and 073-047 rods seem to work best. I don’t have any bogging but the performance isn’t as good as a Holley or the original 4350 was. But I need reliability because I am on the road most of the time and cant have the carb fouling up when you get a batch of bad gas. The Edelbrock is easy to remove and clean on the road if you get a problem. The 4350 needs rebuilt every six weeks to keep it running properly and is just a hassle when traveling and the Holley is just to sophisticated to take apart on the road. I did modify the stock air cleaner by cutting a three inch hole in the opposite site of the cold air intake and running one more three inch hose out through the radiator support on the left side to get more cold air into the air cleaner.

 

When I ran the 1411, both in Stock and modified formats, it was less than impressive. Mileage appeared better than with the 1406, but the performance was even worse than it is now. With the stock setup of the 1411, the truck had virtually no "get up and go", no matter how ya drove it. Town mileage sucked as well. Modified it with different step up springs, tried richer rods, still an absolute dog.

So I bought the 1406. The 1406 gives more pep while driving through town. The tiny primaries I think are what I have to thank for that. Highway mileage though is at the moment undetermined.

Both carbs bog at WOT. The 1411 just does it much much worse. Go from idling at standing stop to flooring it, and the truck kind of hesitates, then takes off but revs slowly. Sounds like lean bog correct? The 1406 does the same thing just not quite as bad.

Neither carb will chirp the tires.

I tried for ****s and giggles a .101 main jet in the 1406. Left the scondaries stock at .095. Stock rods. 7" springs. Absolutely zero change. Doesn't Rev faster, doesn't elimitate the bog. Tried the 7037 rods with the stock jets as well. That didn't eliminate the bog either. Instead, when I ran the 7037 rods, I found that when I stomped it and stayed on it, the truck would sag, take off, then choke and try to stall. Let off the gas or tap the brakes and the engine would cut out entirely.

FWIW, if richening and leaning the carb doesn't change anything performance wise, then the issue must lie in the timing.

What does everyone run for timing?

 

Connect the vacuum advance to ported vacuum.

 

only reason why I don't have it that way currently is because the crane kit recommends manifold vacuum. I have run it both on manifold and ported and noticed no noticeable difference in performance. I can try switching it back over layer today, but I am starting to think that my current setup of 30* centrifugal advance and 14* of initial is too high.

my dizzy has a 10L slot as well ands the 15L slot. I have tried the truck on that slot with 14* of timing as well and it still felt slughish.

 

I think the timing is too far advanced at higher RPMs.

When I've adjusted my 460s to produce 18" at idle, the ignition timing was way high. I set the timing back to stock, the vacuum fell back to 17, but it ran better.

Perhaps the base timing is good, but at higher RPMs it's getting too high. Since you've tried everything else, you might try running without any vacuum advance to the distributor. After that, maybe there's too much advance in the recurve, or it's coming in too soon.

 

There has to be something else wrong with it besides carburetion mine is no bomb but it jumps when you stomp on it. I was doing about 60 on the freeway one day with my nephew in the truck and wanted to jump a lane and stomped down, but not really hard, and I was at 80 in a couple seconds. My nephew commented that he couldn’t get his breath for a couple of seconds. Also I have to be careful when taking off from a stop sign. If I get on it a little too hard it will get sideways and I know the carburetor on my truck is crap. I modified my distributor as follows; I ground out the 10L slot on the distributor upper advance shaft to get a total of 21 degrees mechanical advance. I pinned the arm of the vacuum advance to limit it to 21 degrees total. I now have a total of 12 degrees static, 21 degrees mechanical and 21 degrees vacuum for a total of 54 degrees. This seems to work best for me.

 

Definitely!

 

alright I will give that a try. Every other 460 truck I've driven has been a blast! Drove one a few months ago and it nailed the tires at half throttle. This on just runs and pulls like a small block.

And also for what it's worth, my truck runs like a bag without vacuum advance. I mean it idles fine, but even my 6 cylinder sport trac could beat it off the line. Grandma in her scooter can beat it off the line. Hell me walking can beat it off the line with the advance unplugged. Something has to be up with the timing. My guess is I should flip back to the 10L slot and try the factory 12*. Should give me a total of about 34* timing total without vacuum advance. I will flip the advance vacuum line to ported and see how she likes it.

Dumb question, but would you recommend running the crane advance canister or the factory ford one?

 

Shouldn't really matter. Vac advance is really only factoring at high manifold vacuum conditions, when at level cruise, low load conditions. It won't have any effect coming off the line since there is little to no vacuum at this point.

 

Something's wrong I went to go around a slow poke that was going 55 mph I jumped around and stomped down to hard and darn near went sideways. Scared the heck out of me. You can't get on them too hard with an empty bed.

 

I will leave the Crane unit on for now then. No point in removing it. Guess my next stab at this thing will be this weekend based on the weather reports. I will try the following unless someone else has a better suggestion...

10L slot in the dizzy - 20* centrifugal advance
2 yellow springs from the Crane kit
Timing all in at 3000rpms
Initial timing set at 14* per valve cover sticker.

Crane recommends testing timing 2* above stock spec. My valve cover tells me the stock spec is 12* so 14* will be first test.

This SHOULD give me 34* TOTAL timing all in at 3000rpms. Does anyone see an issue with that?

As stated, with the vac. advance disconnected and plugged, this thing is a turd off the line. Would rather get out and push it. Hook up the vacuum advance and it comes to life. Doesn't matter if hooked to ported or manifold spark, without vacuum advance this thing will not move.

I will reset the 1406 carb back to stock spec before testing to eliminate that variable as well.

 

Something is really wrong with that timing. You say it comes to life when you hook the vacuum up. That doesn’t make sense. I can’t hardly tell the difference when mine isn’t hooked up. I took my damper and measured out and painted degrees on it up to 60 degrees. That is the way I check my timing. I put the timing light on it and rev up the engine with no vacuum and watch the timing advance. Then I hook the vacuum up and rev it up again to see what the total advance is. Is that what you are doing?

 

To check the total advance (initial plus centrifugal), I unhook and plug the vacuum advance line to the dizzy. Then I Rev the motor to 3200rpms and watch the damper with my timing light.

With my current setup, I observe 44* of timing with the motor at 3200rpms, vac. Advance unhooked and plugged

But yes, if I leave the vacuum advance unplugged and go to drive the truck, the truck is slower than molasses accelerating, especially at WOT. Hook up the vacuum advance, and it turns into a whole different truck.

 

At normal speeds, the distributor advance should not affect the performance that way. The primary purpose of the vacuum advanced timing is cruising fuel economy - not performance.

I think you've got a good plan for the weekend. Good luck!

 

Your timing is retarded. Advance it by ear, don't use the timing light.....its lying to you or something.....Use ported vacuum for the advance.