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Crank sensor is fine if you're getting tach signal.
You still need to unplug the CAM sensor (drivers side behind power steering pump) and inspect the entire length of that wire and plug. It runs up the drivers side front of the block near the fuel filter housing. When you mess with the FICM harness you are in effect messing with the cam sensor wiring.
I will have a look at the cam sensor wiring hopefully tomorrow. I am presently getting the minivan ready for a road trip to Orlando Florida in one weeks time with the whole family from Ontario Canada.
Like I mentioned, electrical is my weak point so forgive my ignorance but can I check the resistance at any time or only when this problem presents itself.
This last week my life seems to be like the old Bob Dylan song "Broken". The minivan needed a rear wheel bearing and sway bar links, all three riding lawnmowers wouldn't run, my Excursion's alternator crapped out so I got a ride with my brother who works in the same Tool & Die shop and his 2003 6.0 PSD F250 started showing ICP sensor issues.
I guess you just take the good with the bad. Everyone is healthy so things could be worse.
So I finally had a chance to have a look at things. I did the Ohm test and ended up with 1030 ohms for resistance between pins 31 and 43. I also pulled the connector off the sensor and had a look at the wiring and everything looked ok. I guess I should wait till something happens again and go from there?
IIRC the WSM pdf I posted above stated that it should be greater than 10,000 ohms.
V7 CHECK THE CMP SENSOR CIRCUITS FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Key OFF.
Disconnect the CMP sensor.
Inspect the CMP sensor connector for damaged or corroded pins.
Measure the resistance between the PCM engine connector pin 31, harness side and ground; and between the PCM engine connector pin 43, harness side and ground.
Are the resistances greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes - go to "step V8"
No - REPAIR the circuit. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.
I had a crank sensor that had a short in the harness. Took me forever to figure out why it would only sometimes start and sometimes not. I finally figured it out by watching RPM on the scan gauge and noticed while trying to start it was very low even though the starter and batteries were good. Watch your RPMS while cranking just a thought. Might point you in the right direction. Good luck
Also my tach would move as i was getting some signal it was just not accurate and often very low. But it would on occasion jump up and start. I put a new pigtail and sensor in and its worked perfect ever since. I also had about 220k when I had that issue.