Hey all, first post. Coming here for some help, I'm about to throw this truck off a cliff!

My 05 F350 will not start hot, occasionally stalls when hot as well. Starts immediately when cold and runs smooth as silk. Truck has 138k miles on it, I bought it studded and deleted, running 5w40 Rotella T6 with Archoil. Some history on the issue: Started out with a rough idle, found low FICM voltage along with a bad battery. Replaced both batteries and FICM, problem fixed. Soon after developed a misfire with a cyl 5 imbalance and injector code, replaced all 8 injectors which fixed that issue. About 2 months ago I had a no start problem, turned out to be a bad ICP, replaced that and the harness and was all good for about 3 weeks. That's when it started becoming hard to start when the motor was warm, and then no start at all when hot and would stall occasionally at idle, wait an hour and it'll fire right up! Ran the air leak test, found a leak on the right bank standpipe, replaced the dummy plugs and standpipes, no start still remained. Went on to replace the IPR and STC fitting which didn't help either. Now it throws a P2285 code, low ICP. Ran the air test again and I don't hear any leaks. HPOP seemed to have good compression turning by hand.

Sorry for the long post but I figure having all the details is better than not. Not sure where to go at this point. Trying not to throw parts at it considering what I've replaced thus far. Anybody got an idea?

 

Probably needs dummy plugs and standpipes. Sounds right, fires cold, looses pressure when hot.

 

Already replaced them with the updated style.

 

O-rings on the pump in the correct order?
How many pounds will it make when cranking? Your air may not go high enough to find the leak, test it when it's hot.

 

Did you have the valve covers off when listening for leaks the last time you did the leak test (clearly you did when you did the dummy plugs, standpipes, STC fitting, etc)? Recently, on another forum, someone actually had a leak in an oil rail plug (it was actually the acoustic attenuator - oring leaked). He couldn't hear that leak. Had to remove the oil rail and saw oil around the threads.

Also, could it be trash on the new IPR? Sometimes that only happens AFTER fixing other problems.

Since the P2285 is an ICP circuit code, post the ICP voltage and pressure readings w/ KOEO and cranking.

 

Yes, o rings are correct. Honestly, I just ordered a scan gauge, so I can't check actual pressure until it arrives. I only have a basic obd-2 code reader.

Yes, valve covers were off both times.

What oil plug are you referring to? I've never heard of the acoustic attenuator.

I guess a dirty IPR could be a possibility, but since its doing exactly the same thing as with the old IPR I'm thinking theres another issue. But I'll give it a check.

 

100% sure it's not leaking at the nipple cups and top injector seals?

 

I've replaced the top injector seals, but I'll check the nipple cups also I didn't think about them before.

I got the Scangauge in, hooked it and took the truck for a drive.

ICP pressure:
KOEO - 0
Cranking started at 300, jumped to 500 and started.
Cold idle - 620
Hot ide - 580
WOT ran around 3800

Ficm ran 58v throughout.

IPR:
KOEO - 14.5%
Cranking - 85%
Idle - 33%
WOT - 60%

After the drive I let it idle in the driveway, after about 5 min it stalled, ICP showed 4300, but it started right up again. About 20 minutes later it stalled again but wouldn't restart, ICP didn't go above 300 while cranking.

Today I started it up and let it idle, cold ICP was in the 1400 range and slowly dropped to 600 as it warmed up.

I'm wondering if there's possibly still air in the system, even though I've drove it 3 times since its been back together, each time giving it several WOT runs.

 

33% at idle and warm is showing a leak, so is only making 300psi while cranking if that was warm pressure.

At full temp it should be 21-23% and 580-650psi.

 

Agreed

ICP VOLTS not psi at koeo he posted psi

You stalled and showed 4300 That's not right if I understand the circumstance correct

When it stalls you can unplug it and try to start

Was it OEM ICP SENSOR IT sounds bad regardless but get the ICP VOLTS @KOEO

 

Verify a good ICP SENSOR before chasing any high ipr reading

Good icpv at KOEO is .18-.24 VOLTS

 

Unplugging the ICP has not made a difference when trying to start it hot. I'll try to ICP voltage tomorrow. The ICP sensor was a new OEM unit that I installed a few months back, along with a new harness.

 

So could the P2285 be from when it originally died

My code reader won't clear mine when P2285 pops it only clears itself by completing a proper drive cycle after a new ICP SENSOR is installed

 

I cleared the P2285 with the Scangauge and it popped up again the first time the truck stalled during that test drive.

 

I haven't been able to get my sgii to clear that dtc before

Interesting

ICP is a vref sensor check vref too