Water Separator plug rusted
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I am waiting for some parts to come in to do the air test but until then I had a question. Can I do the air test on an 03 the same way as the 04 1/2's, threw the ICP port? I know the ICP is hard to get to all the way in the back but is that the only reason why the directions are telling me to take the valve cover off and hook directly into high pressure oil port?
I greatly appreciate all the help from everyone.
I greatly appreciate all the help from everyone.
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Even when I unpluged the sensor and tried to start it,it still wouldn't start. I have a new sensor and plug on its way but there has to be something else wrong besides the ICP. Every other time the sensor was bad it would still start when i unpluged it. Am I wrong about this?
Also you said, 5 volts is max on the range - 4045 psig. What does that mean?
Also you said, 5 volts is max on the range - 4045 psig. What does that mean?
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The wiring to the sensor could have a short - whether it is plugged into the sensor or not. It is fairly common - especially when you see that it has been oil soaked as you posted. Better than jumping to the conclusion that it is the pump,
If the 5Volts you posted is really the PCM ICP reading (and not something else like the vreference voltage), then that is a clue that shouldn't be ignored.
The ICP sensor volts are important because the PCM will use (and report) an inferred value for the ICP pressure. Obviously the voltage reading could be from the sensor or influenced by a wiring fault and then be reported as the sensor value.
You very well could have a leak in the HPO system, or a bad HPOP, but IF you have an obvious issue w/ a critical reading like ICP volts, then it should be addressed first IMO.
The sensor calibration is 0-5 volts. 5 volts (sensor maximum) corresponds to a pressure of 4045 psig.
If the 5Volts you posted is really the PCM ICP reading (and not something else like the vreference voltage), then that is a clue that shouldn't be ignored.
The ICP sensor volts are important because the PCM will use (and report) an inferred value for the ICP pressure. Obviously the voltage reading could be from the sensor or influenced by a wiring fault and then be reported as the sensor value.
You very well could have a leak in the HPO system, or a bad HPOP, but IF you have an obvious issue w/ a critical reading like ICP volts, then it should be addressed first IMO.
The sensor calibration is 0-5 volts. 5 volts (sensor maximum) corresponds to a pressure of 4045 psig.
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Ok, now I got you. So I will install the new sensor and pigtail and check the readings again before I jump strait into the air test. I didn't realize that oil in the conector would prevent it from starting even when it was unpluged.
I said screw it and bought the ICP and IPR as well as the pigtails for both just to be on the safe side. They shoukd be here tomorrow.
I said screw it and bought the ICP and IPR as well as the pigtails for both just to be on the safe side. They shoukd be here tomorrow.
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Alright, after changing the ICP, IPR, and both pigtails, (the IPR pigtail wires were cracking so I replaced it) i got the following readings:
ICP, VOLTS = 0.36
ICP, PSI = jumping around between 100-170
ICP_DES, PSI = 1575
IPR, % = 84.77
RPM =188
Does this thing have a pre-pumpfor the oil? Because I would think (having no experience with the HPOP system) that if there is any pressure at all, then the pump must be working and there is a / multiple massive oil leeks. But I'm just guessing. What do ya'll think?
I guess it is time for an air test. On the questions of going through the ICP or taking the valve cover off, which is better?
ICP, VOLTS = 0.36
ICP, PSI = jumping around between 100-170
ICP_DES, PSI = 1575
IPR, % = 84.77
RPM =188
Does this thing have a pre-pumpfor the oil? Because I would think (having no experience with the HPOP system) that if there is any pressure at all, then the pump must be working and there is a / multiple massive oil leeks. But I'm just guessing. What do ya'll think?
I guess it is time for an air test. On the questions of going through the ICP or taking the valve cover off, which is better?
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From: NW IA
No pre pump, the LPO pump feeds the HPO resevoir, but as long as the needle on the dash moves up to the halfway point or thereabouts upon crakning you don't have any LPO issues.
I very much doubt your HPOP is working. Time for an air test. I did mine through the ICP but I had the turbo off for other reasons, you can get at from the topside with the degas, FICM etc out, just a little more of a challenge.
Or, buy the tool that goes in the IPR hole.
Takes a massive leak somewhere else to only get to 170 psi LPO, and the IPR is calling for full on oil, but it's not there.
This was the scenario on kids truck almost to a tee.
I very much doubt your HPOP is working. Time for an air test. I did mine through the ICP but I had the turbo off for other reasons, you can get at from the topside with the degas, FICM etc out, just a little more of a challenge.
Or, buy the tool that goes in the IPR hole.
Takes a massive leak somewhere else to only get to 170 psi LPO, and the IPR is calling for full on oil, but it's not there.
This was the scenario on kids truck almost to a tee.
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So I did the air test and there are leeks around 4 or 5 injectors. 2 are pretty bad from what I can tell. I didnt hear it from anywhere else though. I pulled the valve covers to be sure so I ordered o-ring kits for the injectors and nipples.
Is there a way to test the pump its self? Ive already spent over $600 so far. I'm gonna have to rob Peter to pay Paul if the pump is gone. Lots of fun.
Is there a way to test the pump its self? Ive already spent over $600 so far. I'm gonna have to rob Peter to pay Paul if the pump is gone. Lots of fun.
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From: NW IA
How long did you have the air hooked up before you heard the leaks?
Tested through the ICP?
How many pounds shop air?
You will have to command the IPR to test the pump.
Reason I ask so many questions is often times a "leak" from an injector is just the fact all the oil has been displaced from the spool valves, which is not a leak really.
It may very well be leaking, but needs to be confirmed with valve covers off during the test which I am assuming you did.
At any rate you won't be sorry redoing the o-rings on the injectors and the oil rail, it's a good idea.
I am a little suspicious this is the only issues though since it just died and quit. Usually you can still cold start a 6.0 with come leaking o-rings unless they are really bad, which might be however still be the issues here.
Tested through the ICP?
How many pounds shop air?
You will have to command the IPR to test the pump.
Reason I ask so many questions is often times a "leak" from an injector is just the fact all the oil has been displaced from the spool valves, which is not a leak really.
It may very well be leaking, but needs to be confirmed with valve covers off during the test which I am assuming you did.
At any rate you won't be sorry redoing the o-rings on the injectors and the oil rail, it's a good idea.
I am a little suspicious this is the only issues though since it just died and quit. Usually you can still cold start a 6.0 with come leaking o-rings unless they are really bad, which might be however still be the issues here.
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I had about 130-140 PSI going through the ICP port with the IPR closed for about 4 minutes. At first it sounded like a small hiss then got louder and started to make like a drip/tick sound along with the hissing. I have read many other threads that said they hear it gurgling but I didn't. It was nothing then strait to hissing. I took off the valve covers and did it again and could hear it realy bad around 7 and 8.
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