Its an 03 with no recent work done, it died on the highway like the flip of a switch. No number as of yet, working on getting a scanner from a buddy. I just picked up a new pressure test gauge today, my 12 year old pulled an extension cord off a shelf and down came my old gauge, breaking as it hit the floor..... (kids, cant do anything with them). Need to find an adapter tomorrow because I bought it for my wifes truck. Once I get home tomorrow I'll post the pressure. Hopefully I will be able to get the scanner from him tomorrow as well.

 

It's an early build, can't jump to conclusions but it's possible you lost your HPOP. They go just like that, a flip of the switch.

We will know more once you get some numbers posted.

 

Ok, so the fuel system is good. Running around 58 to 59 psi. But the HPOP has only 150 psi. Batteries were low so we had to hook up another truck with jumper cables. That might have made the pump not run at full strength so I am going to get a set of batteries and try it again. Of course it has to be the pain in the a@@ part....... Lots of fun

 

Bummer. Your hpop pump bit the dust or you have a massive hpop leak. Hpop is gear driven from the engine not voltage so the batteries wouldn't cause low hpop pressure. Fuel pressure looks good tho, proper test is at wot tho, needs to stay above 50psi. 45psi is the spec but I'd replace the pump below 50. Blue spring update might put it in the 60s.

 

I would pull the IPR before condemning the HPOP.

 

But if the engine isn't turning at full starting speed wouldn't potentially give you a low pressure because it wouldnt be turning the pump as fast as normal? That was my thought.

 

Healthy batteries are definitely a must. You'll get multiple problems if they're weak & could lead to ficm damage. When replacing them be sure to go over all the connections with a wire brush including the grounds.

As Mark said, pull the ipr & check for plugged screen. Electrical plug should be oil free.

 

Im going to try to get out of work early today and pull it. I hate trying to get to that and the ICP. Is it better to go at it from the top or the bottom like the ICP? I know they are right there close to each other.

 

You got a size or part number for the o ring? Specifically for the updated plug? Thanks Sean.

 

IPR is removed from the top, takes a special socket as shown in the vid that Mark posted.
(after I posted it, noticed Mark had posted already(durr) and removed it)

ICP should not be covered in oil, or the pigtail.
IPR screen should be free from any debris and all there.

If all looks good, then I would figure on doing an air test after that before putting the ICP back in. That will take a special socket as well, or a normal socket cut down so it fits.

First thing I would do is unplug the ICP.....if it's bad, it should still start and run, the PCM just sets a default pressure and you can even drive it that way....won't hurt a thing.If you have something to read data live it will show a higher pressure, it's fine. If however you pull the ICP plug and still does not start, even though you are seeing over 500 psi, you will need to air test. You either have a bad pump or massive leak somewhere else.
I had the exact same scenario as you when I bought my sons truck, was pulling a loaded trailer up a slight grade and she just slowed down under throttle......then kind of stumbled for a half mile at reduced power and died, thankfully enough for me to pull off at the next intersection.
Ended up being the pump, which I would say the vast majority of the time on an early build is the problem.


All that being said, we could use some numbers posted up once you get to that point.
While cranking, what is the ICP and IPR showing for starters. Those two numbers will tell us a lot.

Be sure to keep those batteries up, keep a charger on them if needed. You don't want to starve the FICM.

 

Sorry I don't. The O-ring came from the box of extras I have.
I just got lucky to have the right one made out of the right material.

 

I pulled the IPR, That was easier than i thought it was going to be. Screen is fine, a few little pieces of stuff but thats it. The ICP plug has oil on it (again). That wouldn't keep it from starting, would it? Last time it went bad it just threw a code and turned on the check engine light.

Im going to do what you said and put it back together and try to start it with the ICP unpluged once I get the new batteries. If it doesnt I'll get the computer back on it for the #'s.

 

A bad ICP can keep a truck from running, which is why the easy fix is to unplug it until you can replace it with a new one, if that is in fact the issue. It won't hurt anything, you might notice a decrease in mpg from what I have read but it won't hurt anything as far as the engine itself. You will need a new pigtail for the new ICP sensor however.
Sounds like you have a plan. You still really need something to monitor data live.

 

One thing you mentioned was slow crank. You need 150+ RPM to fire off among the other things listed.

 

I apologize for taking so long to get back on. A series of misfortune events took me out of commission for awhile. I tore my trapezius muscle then dislocated my wrist. Needless to say that I wasn't going to do any work on the truck.

So i bought a scan tool and downloaded an app because i was tired of waiting for someone to come scan it. And this is what i got.

ICP, VOLTS = 5.0
​​ICP, PSI = around 280
​​ICP_DES, PSI = 1840
IPR, % = 84.77
RPM =165

Any thoughts? Would it be the HPOP it's self or could it be the seals? (pelase say the cheaper one, crossing fingers)