Hi, long time ford owner (20+ years) part time mechanic here. Been very lucky with my Fords, very rarely need to make repairs, but now im stumped. 99 ranger, 3.0, no problems till a few days ago. Went out to truck to go to work, drove out driveway, no brakes. Blown brake to rear breaks. Made repairs, new lines, pads, hardware, drums. Bled lines. Next day, out drive way, no brakes. Blown front line.replaceit all. Bleed all lines, again. Still no brakes. Pedal hits floor when engine running, 2-3% braking. Control valve? If so, where is it? thanks in advance! P.s. yes, i did a serch for a previous thread but either missed it or just didnt find it, thanks again! ! !

 

Welcome to FTE.

Do you have 4WABS, or just RWABS?
Do you have a ABS, or Brake, or CEL trouble light lit?
What wheel sequence routine did you use when bleeding the system?

Did any of the brake master cylinder chambers get low & or the lines run completely out of fluid?
If so, did you perform a "bench bleed" routine on the master cylinder, before bleeding the lines & wheel cylinders?

If the master cylinder & lines completely emptied of fluid, the ABS controller may have air in it & if so, will likely need to be taken to a shop that has a scan tool that can actuate the ABS controller motors, so that part of the system can be purged. It isn't an easy job, even for a pro, so consider choosing a good brake shop that knows Ford ABS systems & have them bleed the system. Ford brake fluid is highly recommended.

If you have, or can come by a ELM scan tool, hook it up to the in cabin DLC & running FORScan, or the like software on the viewing device of your choice, have it scan the vehicle computer/controllers for trouble code clues & post up All trouble code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.

Some starting trouble shooting thoughts for consideration, more info would be helpful.

 

I knew i was forgetting something lol....
ok, 2wd, automatic. Master cylinder ended up drained.
no ABS trouble light or codes....have a scan tool, no "hidden" codes found.
on rear axel,was a block that had a supply going in, 2 coming out to left and right cylinders. Replaced lines from that block to the rear breaks.
new cylinders,pads, hardware, drums.

bled lines, lr, rr, until fresh fluid was bled. Pumped brakes 3 times after all air bubbles quit.
front brakes: new rotors, pads, cylinders. Bled lines as in i did on rear brakes, fl, fr. No air.
have truck on jack stands, repeated bleeding, rr,lr,fr,fl. No bubbles, clear fluid.
tires put un, engine started, pedal went to floor, no resistance.
been doing my own brake jobs for 30+ years and this is a first for me.

 

Ok, that last bleed sequence routine is how I do mine.
So you have the 2 wheel rear ABS, not 4 wheel ABS system?
I didn't read anywhere that you did a bench bleed routine on the brake master cylinder after it was drained of fluid. If it was drained of fluid, it'll likely need to be bench bled. It can be done in place with some plastic tubing attached to the outlet line connections, with the open ends returning fluid to the master cyl reservoirs as your helper pumps the pedal while you watch for the air bubbles to clear.

If you've done the master cyl bench bleed, then it seems the ABS motor block on the under hood drivers side inner fender may have air in it & if so, you'll likely need a scan tool that'll activate it to open so a vacuum can be applied to draw out air, then refill with fresh fluid & a brake shop, or Dealer would have the equipt & knowledge to do it.

 

(V-8 juice moment, smacking forehead) Bench bleed.... will get back to you sunday... yes, 2wd, no 4wd abs.
thank you VERY much....old age and kids in collage brain fart.....

 

Ok, let us know how it goes.

EDIT: If the master cyl had air in it & after the bench bleed routine if you still have a soft pedal from the master cyl previously having fed/pumped air bubbles into the lines as you performed the last wheel cyl bleed, you will need to re-do/re-bleed the wheel cylinders again to make sure you've gotten all of the air out.

If working alone, you can do it without too much bother by rigging a one man set up, by placing the wheel cyl bleed hose into a Partially filled container/so the hose end remains immersed, opening the wheel cyl bleed screw & slowly pump the brake pedal 4-5 times, but not so many as to let the master cyl fluid level get so low that it sucks air in.
For my one man brake bleed kit I can't pump more than 5 times, lest my small wheel cyl catch container over flow, or the master cyl fluid level get too low. So be sure to keep the master cyl topped up & the wheel cyl container emptied, but partially topped up, to keep the bleed hose immersed, if doing this alone.

 

First, I want to apologize for such a long absence after my last post. health reasons prevented me from getting back to you guys about my brake issues.
I am living proof that no matter how many years you have done brake jobs on a Ford, the simplest mistake will drive you and 4 brake guys crazy.
Brake guy #5, after 5 hours of trying to figure out why I didn't have brakes, went home, sat in his recliner, thought about it and 10 minutes later figured it out. He came back the next day, took one 10 second look under the truck, looked at me and said, Ill have it fixed in 30 minutes, grinning the entire time at me.
Long story short, some how, some way, I managed to install the front calipers on the wrong sides, bleeders pointing down......
he swapped the calipers around, great breaks now.

 

Ok, that's good feedback & one that I haven't heard of in decades, so didn't even Think of suggesting it. Bet the reason #5 thought of it was that he'd done it some time in the past, heck maybe he was the last one to post it on this forum....lol Anyway good to hear all is now well & your on the road again.