Bleeding brake procedure?
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Junior User
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Bleeding brake procedure?
I am in process of changing a couple of brake lines (one in front and one in the rear) on my 92 f250 with rear abs. Is their a certain way to bleed them because of the abs? I noticed a junction box on the frame and it looks like it has a bleed sscrew on it. Any help appreciated. Thanks Ed
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Joined: Jan 2006
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no differant then bleeding regular brakes without ABS. just as long as you didn't replace any other componant other than the lines themselves. bleed in order of distance from the master cylinder: the furthest away gets bled first.
you will need an extra hand to do this also. do not bother using the vacuum pump brake bleeding kit. they do not work.
break the bleeder loose, then tighten it back up.
have extra hand get in the truck and pump the brakes until they are hard, then pump it again and keep pressure on the brake pedal.
pop a clear tube onto the bleeder and into a jar partially filled with new fluid.
submerge the end of the line in the fluid.
tell extra hand that the pedal WILL drop to the floor and once it does tell them to keep pushing on the pedal and to NOT release the pressure.
loosen the bleeder until you see fluid coming out.
ask extra hand if the pedal has reached the floor. (it happens really fast so there's really no point on asking if it did or not...lol)
tighten up the bleeder.
have extra hand pump up the brakes again and repeat.
repeat the bleeding procedure until you get nothing but straight fluid from the bleeder with NO air bubbles.
keep on top of the master cylinder as you will need to keep topping it up with new fluid as you do this.
switch to other side. and repeat.
you will need an extra hand to do this also. do not bother using the vacuum pump brake bleeding kit. they do not work.
break the bleeder loose, then tighten it back up.
have extra hand get in the truck and pump the brakes until they are hard, then pump it again and keep pressure on the brake pedal.
pop a clear tube onto the bleeder and into a jar partially filled with new fluid.
submerge the end of the line in the fluid.
tell extra hand that the pedal WILL drop to the floor and once it does tell them to keep pushing on the pedal and to NOT release the pressure.
loosen the bleeder until you see fluid coming out.
ask extra hand if the pedal has reached the floor. (it happens really fast so there's really no point on asking if it did or not...lol)
tighten up the bleeder.
have extra hand pump up the brakes again and repeat.
repeat the bleeding procedure until you get nothing but straight fluid from the bleeder with NO air bubbles.
keep on top of the master cylinder as you will need to keep topping it up with new fluid as you do this.
switch to other side. and repeat.
Last edited by bluneon; Aug 16, 2006 at 08:41 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Duncan B.C. Canada
Originally Posted by bluneon
no differant then bleeding regular brakes without ABS. just as long as you didn't replace any other componant other than the lines themselves. bleed in order of distance from the master cylinder: the furthest away gets bled first.
you will need an extra hand to do this also. do not bother using the vacuum pump brake bleeding kit. they do not work.
break the bleeder loose, then tighten it back up.
have extra hand get in the truck and pump the brakes until they are hard, then pump it again and keep pressure on the brake pedal.
pop a clear tube onto the bleeder and into a jar partially filled with new fluid.
submerge the end of the line in the fluid.
tell extra hand that the pedal WILL drop to the floor and once it does tell them to keep pushing on the pedal and to NOT release the pressure.
loosen the bleeder until you see fluid coming out.
ask extra hand if the pedal has reached the floor. (it happens really fast so there's really no point on asking if it did or not...lol)
tighten up the bleeder.
have extra hand pump up the brakes again and repeat.
repeat the bleeding procedure until you get nothing but straight fluid from the bleeder with NO air bubbles.
keep on top of the master cylinder as you will need to keep topping it up with new fluid as you do this.
switch to other side. and repeat.
you will need an extra hand to do this also. do not bother using the vacuum pump brake bleeding kit. they do not work.
break the bleeder loose, then tighten it back up.
have extra hand get in the truck and pump the brakes until they are hard, then pump it again and keep pressure on the brake pedal.
pop a clear tube onto the bleeder and into a jar partially filled with new fluid.
submerge the end of the line in the fluid.
tell extra hand that the pedal WILL drop to the floor and once it does tell them to keep pushing on the pedal and to NOT release the pressure.
loosen the bleeder until you see fluid coming out.
ask extra hand if the pedal has reached the floor. (it happens really fast so there's really no point on asking if it did or not...lol)
tighten up the bleeder.
have extra hand pump up the brakes again and repeat.
repeat the bleeding procedure until you get nothing but straight fluid from the bleeder with NO air bubbles.
keep on top of the master cylinder as you will need to keep topping it up with new fluid as you do this.
switch to other side. and repeat.
have the same '89 F150 sauper cab with ABS brakes .
Truck sat for 8 yrs since l parked with blown engine .
Now with everything all new and brake system totaly seased up l have replaced brake lines and all wheel cylinders and calipers and the mastercylinder du to they where all frozen .
What will l have to do bleeding and to get the ABS up and going ?
Thanks from Ripspeed .
