Harmonic balancer replacement
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Harmonic balancer replacement
My truck is a 1989 F150 351W. I have a wobbling harmonic balancer and it is causing a pretty loud chirp. I was wondering if anyone had any solid instructions for the replacement of this. Should I remove just the fan shroud or remove the radiator entirely?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2015
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From: Conroe,TX
You may be able to remove it with the radiator in but the shroud would have to come of and if it is like mine which I am sure it is LOL the fan will have to come with the shroud.
You will need a puller which you can rent or buy from your local parts store make sure to get a installer also. Easy job really.
You will need a puller which you can rent or buy from your local parts store make sure to get a installer also. Easy job really.
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You may be able to remove it with the radiator in but the shroud would have to come of and if it is like mine which I am sure it is LOL the fan will have to come with the shroud.
You will need a puller which you can rent or buy from your local parts store make sure to get a installer also. Easy job really.
You will need a puller which you can rent or buy from your local parts store make sure to get a installer also. Easy job really.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 247
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From: Conroe,TX
Not a big deal it is keyed so it only goes on one way and back on the same way just be careful not to tear the seal on the timing cover. If you have the new balancer the job should be 30 mins at the most hardest part is the fan bolts loosen them before taking the belt off. Than remove the belt and pull fan and shroud. Attach puller and pull balancer then oil the nose of the new balancer and use installer to push the new one on
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Not a big deal it is keyed so it only goes on one way and back on the same way just be careful not to tear the seal on the timing cover. If you have the new balancer the job should be 30 mins at the most hardest part is the fan bolts loosen them before taking the belt off. Than remove the belt and pull fan and shroud. Attach puller and pull balancer then oil the nose of the new balancer and use installer to push the new one on
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 247
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From: Conroe,TX
Well that's the hundred dollar question lol check your local parts store they should have one or be able to get one. Being a stock motor you do not need a 300.00 dollar balancer so stock will be just fine.
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i ordered a dorman. Thank you for the help.
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From: Merchantville, NJ 08109
You should be able to remove it with both the fan and shroud in place, but will need to remove the drive belt(or belts) Just remove the crank pulley from the balancer, then pull the balancer. You will also use the crank bolt to pull the new one into place- don't tap it with a hammer- no matter how lightly you tap, the ring the pulley goes over will distort...
Oh- and when you go to torque the crank nut, use two long bolts in two adjacent(not opposite) bolt holes in the balancer, and a long pry bar, to hold everything still while you torque- otherwise you will simply get near torque, and then rotate the crank! Do this before you put the pulley back on... I believe the holes are 5/16-18...
Using ramps will give you fine clearance to work from underneath on it...
Scott
Oh- and when you go to torque the crank nut, use two long bolts in two adjacent(not opposite) bolt holes in the balancer, and a long pry bar, to hold everything still while you torque- otherwise you will simply get near torque, and then rotate the crank! Do this before you put the pulley back on... I believe the holes are 5/16-18...
Using ramps will give you fine clearance to work from underneath on it...
Scott
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You should be able to remove it with both the fan and shroud in place, but will need to remove the drive belt(or belts) Just remove the crank pulley from the balancer, then pull the balancer. You will also use the crank bolt to pull the new one into place- don't tap it with a hammer- no matter how lightly you tap, the ring the pulley goes over will distort...
Oh- and when you go to torque the crank nut, use two long bolts in two adjacent(not opposite) bolt holes in the balancer, and a long pry bar, to hold everything still while you torque- otherwise you will simply get near torque, and then rotate the crank! Do this before you put the pulley back on... I believe the holes are 5/16-18...
Using ramps will give you fine clearance to work from underneath on it...
Scott
Oh- and when you go to torque the crank nut, use two long bolts in two adjacent(not opposite) bolt holes in the balancer, and a long pry bar, to hold everything still while you torque- otherwise you will simply get near torque, and then rotate the crank! Do this before you put the pulley back on... I believe the holes are 5/16-18...
Using ramps will give you fine clearance to work from underneath on it...
Scott
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