I am having the above issue. I just recently got my truck back, My father and I switched vehicles due to need and distance's being driven.
05 F350 6.0, 164,000 miles


I couldn't wait to drive it again, I spent hours detailing and cleaning. Well I go to start and noticed it struggled to start, and didnt seem to be idling right. I looked under the hood and it was leaking fuel from the Regulator. I left it parked and never drove it since he last did. I read around on these forums and I bought the blue spring upgrade kit.

Now I notice it shakes at idle a lot more than it used to, pretty bad at times. Then upon driving it shakes even worse upon acceleration attempts, and has very poor throttle response. I have to put it nearly to the floor and even then the acceleration is nothing like it used to be. Most of my trip was highway at 60mph, and anytime it would start climbing a hill it would shake pretty bad with the acceleration. When i let off the gas to slow down before braking it stopped the shaking.

So I read around on here and I went back and used the factory bowl and valve for the regulator, still had the issue.
Next I went back and replaced the blue spring with the original, still have the issue.

I just checked the FICM and it is reading between 48-49 during key on, cycle, and cranking.
Batteries are great
Alternator only reads 13.6 at 2k rpm idle, but have not had charging issues.


My father says he never noticed anything wrong with it other than it occasionally missing out. But I don't see how changing the fuel pressure regulator would have caused this. Especially since I tried every combination of oem and aftermarket parts, ensuring that all the connections and parts were installed correctly.

Any thoughts and input would be appreciated. I would like to rule out the basics and fixes I can do before I have to pay for someone else to fix it.

 

If the hfcm is failing then the blue spring won't matter. Have you tested fuel pressure at the bowl test port? What are you using to monitor the engine sensors?

 

Read the codes. Put the blue spring back in. Check fuel pressure using a real gauge thru the test Port. You can borrow a gauge from the parts store or pick one up from Harbor Freight, get the engine oil pressure test kit, #62621 for $30

 

What all parts did you replace with the blue spring kit? Just the spring?

 

I will try to get to auto zone and rent the pressure gauge to check these.

As far as parts replaced, I first replaced everything from the full kit, except for the housing.

Next I tried with only aftermarket seals and blue spring( Factory housing, bowl, bleeder valve, bolts) I did notice that the factory seal from the valve was stuck in the hole to the filter area, I had to force it out from inside the filter area. I used the new seal with the factory bleeder.

then I just replaced the blue spring with old factory seal. Now the only new parts on the regulator are the seals.

 

The O ring on the brass plunger. Check to make sure it's not twisted or torn. As WatsonR said you do need to use a pressure gauge. How about filters do you use OEM. Have you changed them lately. Don't want to scare you but if you are starving the injectors for fuel, this can get very expensive fast.

 

- Any tunes or tuners on the motor?

- How long ago were the fuel filters replaced with Motorcraft filters?

- How long ago was oil change and Motorcraft oil filter? Which oil?

- Have you researched "stiction"?

- Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor is right next to the thermostat housing, it has metal tube connection going down to the exhaust manifold - that tube needs to be inspected to ensure that it is not clogged. Acceleration start with the go pedal, then command from ECM for more fuel, then EBP responds with increase in pressure - then ECM asks for more air from the Turbo... No EBP response then no turbo then little to no acceleration

- Everyone is about to ask you for computer codes and values so you need a scan tool that can monitor live data. With a scanner and live data, we can determine if the EBP is functioning and balanced as well as all the other sensors - blind without a scanner and live data.

 

No tunes, as far as I know the FICM has not been flashed at least under our ownership of 3 years.

New fuel filters ordered, last replaced at 138,000 miles. Only use motorcraft fuel and oil filters

Oil and filters changed 700 miles ago, oil was quaker state full syn 5w-40 I believe.

I have wondered about stiction, is REV-X worth a try?

I do not have a scanner, deciding now to keep the truck I will have to buy one.

 

26,000 miles on a set of fuel filters is way overdue..... That is a good start. Replace one and then prime it by cycling the ignition key on a few times for thirty seconds each, then replace the other and prime again same method.

 

I will be able to test fuel pressure with this engine oil test kit?

Engine Oil Pressure Test Kit

 

What are your opinions on Motorcraft and K&N filters? I could get one today if they are acceptable to use.

 

Keep things simple and known until the motor is running properly - so Motorcraft FD-4616 for now.

 

One our our members reported that the kit will work and comes with all the adapters required. I do have the kit, just haven't used it yet.

 

Heading to Oreilly to pick up the FD4616 right now, and will install tonight. How long should it take to see a difference if this was in fact the issue?

 

That should be FL-2016