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Well I had to drive about 200 miles yesterday to an orthodontist for wisdom teeth removal. I had only gotten the upper filter replaced, still needed the new cap before I could replace lower. The factory spring was still in the regulator
After about 15 miles, it balanced out and the shaking almost completely disappeared. Power and throttle response returned, not to 100% but definitely much better.
I am replacing the lower as we speak. It was very dark brown/black as well.
I am hesistant to replace the blue spring, it seems like this started when I put the blue spring in. Could I have received a faulty spring, maybe with too much resistance? Or could the increase in fuel pressure have brought the neglected filters to attention?
Thanks, Everyone. I've always loved this truck and I am going to keep it, so I will be learning a lot from here on.
Well I had to drive about 200 miles yesterday to an orthodontist for wisdom teeth removal. I had only gotten the upper filter replaced, still needed the new cap before I could replace lower. The factory spring was still in the regulator
After about 15 miles, it balanced out and the shaking almost completely disappeared. Power and throttle response returned, not to 100% but definitely much better.
I am replacing the lower as we speak. It was very dark brown/black as well.
I am hesistant to replace the blue spring, it seems like this started when I put the blue spring in. Could I have received a faulty spring, maybe with too much resistance? Or could the increase in fuel pressure have brought the neglected filters to attention?
Thanks, Everyone. I've always loved this truck and I am going to keep it, so I will be learning a lot from here on.
With blue spring in place, your pump would want to work harder in order to push more pressure, unfortunately it was being constrained by clogged filters. You almost have it fixed! Congrats
Well I had to drive about 200 miles yesterday to an orthodontist for wisdom teeth removal. I had only gotten the upper filter replaced, still needed the new cap before I could replace lower. The factory spring was still in the regulator
After about 15 miles, it balanced out and the shaking almost completely disappeared. Power and throttle response returned, not to 100% but definitely much better.
I am replacing the lower as we speak. It was very dark brown/black as well.
I am hesistant to replace the blue spring, it seems like this started when I put the blue spring in. Could I have received a faulty spring, maybe with too much resistance? Or could the increase in fuel pressure have brought the neglected filters to attention?
Thanks, Everyone. I've always loved this truck and I am going to keep it, so I will be learning a lot from here on.
Put the blue spring back in as advised by others.
Your injectors will be happier, and you might even notice the pump makes a little more or slightly different sound.......it's normal.
Blue spring is one of the cheapest and easier mods out there that provides a real benefit, save you some money down the road!
After about 15 miles, it balanced out and the shaking almost completely disappeared. Power and throttle response returned, not to 100% but definitely much better.
I'm putting this into the thread so that others can gain and recognize the value and importance of continuous maintenance on these motors.
Now for the bad news:
The motor has been fuel starved by clogged fuel filters, that has probably occurred during hard acceleration conditions. This has the potential to score the internals of the injectors in extreme situations, and weaken the seals between fuel and non-fuel.
So if the motor does not balance out then try some fuel additives for lubrication, or add in a gallon kerosene into your fuel tank - after that it might be time to think about new injectors THOUGH that you'll probably be fine. Let us know how things turn out.
While disconnecting the cac/ intercooler pipe, i found a slight bit of either dirty antifreeze or oil in the pipe.
I had a fair amount of antifreeze go everywhere when I disconnected hoses to check the FICM. Could it have found its way in here? It is of a dirty green hue.
Fairly common - keep moving. Two considerations below:
a) clean your parts in the air path so that you can see clean area, take a picture just as you have - put some miles on the truck like 1000 and then look inside the parts again, compare to your pics
b) pull the EGR Valve out and clean the area between the valves and replace the nice seals with new ones, the concern on this would be wet gooey soot on the EGR Valve surfaces, that could indicate a ruptured EGR Cooler - though you would be seeing other signs like white smoke
In your picture, clean that dirt off of your fuel filter housing - you don't want that accidentally migrating inside the bowl when you replace those fuel filters again 10000 miles from now
Also in your picture - the silicon CAC boot on the hot side of the turbo, start budgeting for a replacement of that boot at a minimum, ideally you'll want to replace top and bottom boots on the hot side with the age of your truck
Also in your picture - the silicon CAC boot on the hot side of the turbo, start budgeting for a replacement of that boot at a minimum, ideally you'll want to replace top and bottom boots on the hot side with the age of your truck
I am waiting on aftermarket blue metal pipes with elbows to replace hot side and cold side. I will clean the engine area up now that i have everything squared away, do you recommend a solvent or cleaning agent? It is pretty caked on there. Also as for egr, I haven't done it, but I suppose I have the delete?
Use anything within reach except ultra-high pressure water.
Clean that XDP label for better performance, we all know chrome is faster than black but hey it was probably there when you bought the truck. Yes, EGR deleted.
Also in your picture - the silicon CAC boot on the hot side of the turbo, start budgeting for a replacement of that boot at a minimum, ideally you'll want to replace top and bottom boots on the hot side with the age of your truck
I am waiting on aftermarket blue metal pipes with elbows to replace hot side and cold side. I will clean the engine area up now that i have everything squared away. Also as for egr, I haven't done it, but I suppose I have the delete?
Can some one provide commentary on that Oil Filter Cap? It looks oddly tall to me.
If the Oil Filter Cap is not OEM then an EOM Oil Filter will not install correctly - check it out.
I can't say. I have not replaced the cap, just the o-rings when i changed the filter. I did not encounter any issues installing the motorcraft 2016. Here are different pics.
I assume from the spanish that it is in fact non-oem
Can some one provide commentary on that Oil Filter Cap? It looks oddly tall to me.
If the Oil Filter Cap is not OEM then an EOM Oil Filter will not install correctly - check it out.
i was thinking it looked oddly tall too... even for the later style 6.0's..
as to the antifreeze in the CAC pipes there shouldnt be any antifreeze in there.. Oil does make it into there via the CCV tube and bad turbo seals.. but it shouldnt have coolant in there at all.. the intake manifold could have it if the EGR cooler was bad but with the CAC pipes being before the manifold it wouldnt be contracting there.. the intercooler is Air-air not Air-water.. if it was water cooled then id say it could happen if the intercooler sprung a leak.. but the intercooler is air-air on these trucks.. now if theres coolant in the oil in the pan for whatever reason then it could be sucking it in via the CCV pipe.. at which point if hes getting coolant in the oil pan then hed have a much bigger issue than the truck running bad because of poor fuel flow..
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