Cab swap
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Cab swap
So I have a 82 f250 I'm restoring, I scraped the original bed and bought a new one, my cab is dinged up and rusty but repairable, but the truck I got my bed off of's cab is mint and I can get it for cheap, it will save me money to just buy that truck and swap cabs, the question I'm wondering tho is will it make things a lot harder for me or simpler. I've never attempted a cab swap and this would be the most difficult thing I've done on a vehicle. I'm 19 and mediocrely mechanicly inclined, I'm good at figuring stuff out but I don't want to get too lost in this process and not be able to get everything put back together properly. Is it worth it to swap cabs is it difficult?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
The cab swap isn't difficult - if the trucks are similarly equipped. Let me explain...
The easiest way to swap cabs is to leave everything in the cabs, meaning wiring, dashes, etc, and swap the whole thing. You will have to pull the fenders and disconnect the main harness that lives in the cab and sticks through the firewall on either side of the engine. And, you'll pull the 4 bolts that hold the cab to the frame and disconnect the shift and clutch linkage. Unbolt the brake master cylinder. Then lift the cab up, roll the chassis out and the other in, and set it back down.
But, if one truck has a manual transmission and the other an auto, or if one is 2wd and the other 4wd you'll have to make some changes. For instance, you'll have to change the brake/clutch mechanism and/or the steering column. But all of that is not difficult.
However, and little detail may hold you up - the VIN. Since the VIN comes over with the "new" cab the truck now technically takes on the persona of the donor truck. There are ways to change the VIN, but that may take some work with your DOT. And you for sure want to do it right or you may have a problem selling the truck.
The easiest way to swap cabs is to leave everything in the cabs, meaning wiring, dashes, etc, and swap the whole thing. You will have to pull the fenders and disconnect the main harness that lives in the cab and sticks through the firewall on either side of the engine. And, you'll pull the 4 bolts that hold the cab to the frame and disconnect the shift and clutch linkage. Unbolt the brake master cylinder. Then lift the cab up, roll the chassis out and the other in, and set it back down.
But, if one truck has a manual transmission and the other an auto, or if one is 2wd and the other 4wd you'll have to make some changes. For instance, you'll have to change the brake/clutch mechanism and/or the steering column. But all of that is not difficult.
However, and little detail may hold you up - the VIN. Since the VIN comes over with the "new" cab the truck now technically takes on the persona of the donor truck. There are ways to change the VIN, but that may take some work with your DOT. And you for sure want to do it right or you may have a problem selling the truck.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
Likes: 4,124
From: Angier, NC
The cab swap isn't difficult - if the trucks are similarly equipped. Let me explain...
The easiest way to swap cabs is to leave everything in the cabs, meaning wiring, dashes, etc, and swap the whole thing. You will have to pull the fenders and disconnect the main harness that lives in the cab and sticks through the firewall on either side of the engine. And, you'll pull the 4 bolts that hold the cab to the frame and disconnect the shift and clutch linkage. Unbolt the brake master cylinder. Then lift the cab up, roll the chassis out and the other in, and set it back down.
But, if one truck has a manual transmission and the other an auto, or if one is 2wd and the other 4wd you'll have to make some changes. For instance, you'll have to change the brake/clutch mechanism and/or the steering column. But all of that is not difficult.
However, and little detail may hold you up - the VIN. Since the VIN comes over with the "new" cab the truck now technically takes on the persona of the donor truck. There are ways to change the VIN, but that may take some work with your DOT. And you for sure want to do it right or you may have a problem selling the truck.
The easiest way to swap cabs is to leave everything in the cabs, meaning wiring, dashes, etc, and swap the whole thing. You will have to pull the fenders and disconnect the main harness that lives in the cab and sticks through the firewall on either side of the engine. And, you'll pull the 4 bolts that hold the cab to the frame and disconnect the shift and clutch linkage. Unbolt the brake master cylinder. Then lift the cab up, roll the chassis out and the other in, and set it back down.
But, if one truck has a manual transmission and the other an auto, or if one is 2wd and the other 4wd you'll have to make some changes. For instance, you'll have to change the brake/clutch mechanism and/or the steering column. But all of that is not difficult.
However, and little detail may hold you up - the VIN. Since the VIN comes over with the "new" cab the truck now technically takes on the persona of the donor truck. There are ways to change the VIN, but that may take some work with your DOT. And you for sure want to do it right or you may have a problem selling the truck.
If you can get the title for the other truck then I think it would not be a big deal. As said once up and running just get plates for the other (parts truck) VIN just like it was a new truck you bought.
Other wise park both trucks next to each other, mark hoses & wires with tape and numbers and mark the umbers on a pad for later.
Also take pictures to use when putting it back together.
I am doing a cab off rebuild on an 81 flare side and using a 81 long bed for parts like AC, yes a lot of work going in a non-AC truck, so the dash has to be swapped over.
If my notes & pictures don't help me when going back together there are people here that can and have helped.
Dave ----
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I agree, best thing to do is to move the cab as an assembled unit as much as is reasonably possible (e.g. leave the HVAC stuff in place if you can and use it in its new home). It's really not that hard, be aware that most fasteners are Metric.
But, yeah, coming up with a title for the thing might be difficult, talk to your local county government about that, some places make it easier than others.
But, yeah, coming up with a title for the thing might be difficult, talk to your local county government about that, some places make it easier than others.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 27
From: NJ
Where on teh cab is the VIN stamped? I'm only aware of the dash tag and door sticker. Also, different states consider the frame teh vehicle vs the cab, check with yours and see if it even affects you. Clearly a restoration is not a chop shop job, so I wouldn't worry about it too much unless you have reason to suspect you're buying stolen parts.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,992
Likes: 2,741
From: Virginia
Where on teh cab is the VIN stamped? I'm only aware of the dash tag and door sticker. Also, different states consider the frame teh vehicle vs the cab, check with yours and see if it even affects you. Clearly a restoration is not a chop shop job, so I wouldn't worry about it too much unless you have reason to suspect you're buying stolen parts.
The vin on the dash is the one everyone checks. I would make sure it matches my title. Also you may be paying more money in taxes if the donor cab is newer or a heavier class of vehicle.
I think it's worth the trouble though to start with a better cab/body.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,926
Likes: 116
From: Saskatchewan Canada
The cab swap is a whole lot simpler than rust repair, although that VIN swap can be a tricky issue. Hard to say where swapping sheetmetal meets the point of changing the vehicle identity. It should be noted, the VIN plate is attached to the cab, not the dash and the actual location changes after 86. This also becomes an issue when replacing windshields as the VIN may be covered in the earlier cabs with the later windshield and the early windshield is difficult, if not impossible to source.
One thing to watch when swapping cabs is the options and the vintage. 86 and earlier have some unique features. These would include the wiring cutout on the firewall, lower front fender mounts, windshield wiper motors seat belts and door jambs. Dash mounts also differ, but most of these obstacles can be overcome. A/C vs non A/C firewalls differ. All cabs 80 through 96 bolt to the frame in the same manner. Of course, regular vs extended vs crew cab differ.
One thing to watch when swapping cabs is the options and the vintage. 86 and earlier have some unique features. These would include the wiring cutout on the firewall, lower front fender mounts, windshield wiper motors seat belts and door jambs. Dash mounts also differ, but most of these obstacles can be overcome. A/C vs non A/C firewalls differ. All cabs 80 through 96 bolt to the frame in the same manner. Of course, regular vs extended vs crew cab differ.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
What year, model, etc. is the donor truck? What is the condition of its frame? What is its title status?
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Dave ----
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