Seems like there should be a middle ground between factory ESOF that only tries for 20 secs to lock the hubs and WARN manual hubs that require you to stop and get out to lock and unlock them.

Maybe a dash switch to lock and unlock ESOF hubs?

You might be a candidate

 

Lots of good reading in here...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...oting-4x4.html

 

The way I see it. You have already invested more time trying to fix the ESOF than you would ever spend in your life locking and unlocking manual hubs.... Once I hit that point, the manual hubs went on and I quit looking at it. If you aren't there yet, I did find that the grease I used in my ESOF hubs was way too thick. I believe a thinner lube would have worked better.

 

This is actually a very good idea, all I need is a double throw switch, up to lock down to unlock, run 2 wires to the vacuum solenoid, and poof! That's if I can't figure out why I don't get vacuum in unlock.....

But seriously, I actually might do this.

Edit: I don't even need to run wiring all the way to the solenoid, I can just tap it in at the module above the glove box, I already tested the wiring from there to the solenoid and it's good.

 

I think it uses pulses? In any case, please document what you do. I would like to have a dash switch for hubs.

Having a heavy camper, 4LO is good for backing up, but not so good for front wheel steering with the hubs locked.

 

This is from the ESOF document I found here on the forums:

Hublock Engagement/Disengagement Time
With the hublock dials in the AUTO position, switching the instrument panel MSS to 4x4 HIGH or 4x4 LOW results in the high vacuum level being applied
to the hublocks, which lasts for at least 51 seconds (including a venting cycle). The hublocks should engage during this time through the spring mechanism.
Switching the MSS to 2WD less than 51 seconds after the MSS has been switched to 4x4 HIGH or 4x4 LOW will not interrupt the high vacuum level;
instead, the lower vacuum level will be applied after the high vacuum level cycle is completed.
With the hublock dials in the AUTO position, switching the MSS to 2WD results in the lower vacuum level being applied to the hublocks, which lasts for
about 15 seconds. However, the actual time required for the hublocks to disengage by spring force can vary considerably due to the effects of driveline windup.
Road bumps, vehicle speed, acceleration cycles or momentary reversal of direction can assist this process. Switching the MSS to 4x4 HIGH or 4x4 LOW
always overrides the lower vacuum level cycle and results in an immediate high vacuum level and in locking of the hublocks.


So it's not a pulse but rather one 51 seconds pressure change, the system will do the 51 second cycle again under certain situations but it shouldn't matter with a dash switch, just toggle it on for a couple minutes and then toggle it back off or to unlock when not needed. My testing with a vacuum pump confirms this, in lock mode it's supposed to be greater the 8.75 in HG, I'm getting about 15 and it holds steady for the full 51 seconds. Unlock mode is supposed to be 5.9 to 7.1 in HG but I get nothing even thought the solenoid clicks. I've tried it with the original Ford solenoid and a Dorman replacement. This happens whether I ground it out manually, trigger it with the computer, or with the dash switch. So either both solenoids are bad (unlikely but possible) or something weird is going on. Maybe I have a slight leak and that's enough that it won't hold vacuum during the weaker cycle? Also, I have constant vacuum at the the input line to the solenoid.

So once I figure this out I think I'm going to be installing an override switch for peace of mind, especially cause the unlock cycle only lasts 15 seconds.

 

As I'm driving to work this morning, about 2 blocks from my house, I hit small bump/pothole, nothing out of the ordinary, and then I start hearing what I can best describe as a clunk, scrape, scrape, with each wheel rotation. Seems to be coming from the front end as I feel the clunk vaguely through the steering wheel and floor. So I pulled over and pulled the auto hubs off and spun the front driveshaft by hand, everything looks perfect, nothing scraping or knocking. So I'm assuming a unit bearing went out. Only question is, is it the new Moog on the passenger side or the original unit still on the drivers side. Also, when I turn to the right I don't hear anything.

This front end is driving me nuts.......

 

I ordered this one for my Excursion 4wd front end:


When I pulled the other side with the intention of replacing just a bearing, I noticed while pulling the bearing that the large main bearing started to scrape, then after a tap it stopped- indicating a bad bearing on its way out.

So I ordered a replacement for that side, too, not just a replacement bearing.

Maybe this helps?

 

When I said "unit bearing" that's what I was referring too. I only replace the passenger side, not the drivers side. My suspicion is the driver side went out but I'm just worried it's​ something more, I'm getting a nice clunk besides the scrape noise. And I can feel the clunk through the chassis and steering wheel. But I don't see anything visibly knocking into anything, at least not in the front end.

 

Mine showed up on the bench when I was hitting the bearing puller. The worrying part is how it went right back to being quiet and smooth again.

I figure a flat spot on a bearing or some other failure, but glad I found it while it was off the truck

It is rather inexpensive for replacing MOST of the running stuff on that outer axle, though. At least that was my thoughts

 

Could be either. Changing the loading on the bearings can make either one clear up or unloading the right side clears up the issue. Have you tried jacking up each side and seeing if you can get either one to make a noise when rotating/manipulating it by hand?

 

Just tried jacking up all wheels, first the front then the rear. I can't hear anything, so it's only happening under load. And when I turn to the right I don't hear it either, weight transfers to the left. Also, when I did the inner seals the other week I noticed really small fresh metal shavings in the the right side, can't remember if it was in the spindle or behind the auto hub, I think it was in the spindle. All adding up to the new Moog unit bearing blowing out in 3 months. I hope I'm wrong....

 

Sadly a lot of the MOOG stuff is now China trash. Unless your bearings have Timken stamped on them, they are suspect. I have had new ones last less than a week and they blame it on installation error. BTW, if you get Motorcraft hubs, my last ones had Timken bearings in them.

 

So after badmouthing Moog, it turns out I was wrong. The noise was totally my fault.

What happens when you spend about 12 hrs under an Ex on jack stands on your back without eating a proper breakfast? Exhaustion sets in and you forget to properly torque your lug nuts. About five of them on the drivers side were not even hand tight. I don't think there's enough bang head emojis to compensate for how much of an idiot I felt like after discovering the problem.

But the good news is everything is fine, there was virtually no damage to any of the wheel studs as I stopped driving as soon as I started hearing noises. But I still need to solve the vacuum/hub unlock issue.

 

Take the win!

FYI. I did that about a year ago. The shape of my wheels and short lug nuts meant the impact gun head it the edge of the wheel instead of torquing the lug nut. I didn't have an extension handy, which I had previously used each time.

Yeah, got to use the handi-jack on top of the radiator the first time. I suggest avoiding that, it wasn't "fun" LOL.

Glad you found the issue